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Dave,

I’ll call tomorrow.. Jim

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Peter,

I believe it’s an oval brass tube in a circular shape. It might need a vac pump that can draw down to 28″ and hold it. Jim”

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Was that a Borden Tube type gauge? Maybe you could pull a vacuum on it and recurve the tube. Jim

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Joe,

The joint will come apart, but that still leaves the ball shell around it unable to come off with the yoke still on the driveshaft. The yoke looks like it is splined to the driveshaft like the front slip yoke is, but there is a cross pin to keep it from moving. I have taken out the cross pin but the yoke won’t move at all. I want to replace the seals in the ball unit to keep the oil in and dirt out. The outer seal that rubs against the outside of the ball or shell can be replaced in place but the inner seal I don’t see a good way to get a new seal in there and mine is gone. Jim

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I can find scanners in town but none of them can do a detailed enough scan for what we need. The art deco lines on the face of the handle get washed out and the scanners don’t see deep enough to make the square hole to mount to the shaft

SO.

I had a graphic designer mock up a handle since the printer doesn’t really care about detail just the amount of metal powder and time. Now that I have a STL file the quote came back at $750.00 to do 1 sample handle and $480.00 each to do a full plate of 17 handles. $8160.00 for 17 handles. It would be cheaper to have them cast in SS in Australia but when I researched that nobody was interested in any. So it was $400.00 to find out that the price is unreasonable.

Anybody in Southern CA there is a Westec show at the LA Convention Center in a week or so and Stratys the printer people and Faro the Scanner people will be there I would like to go but I’ve spent enough time and money on this issue already.

Dave Murray is supposed to be getting some more inside door handles and door pull loops, but the window and windshield/seat handles I think I’ll just cast in brass. Jim

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Greg,

The 300 Ohm resistor is banded red, brown, black, orange. The blue body color is just a brand identifier I think. It didn’t help.

While I was at the electronics store I got a package of the 300 Ohm, 1pkg of 51 Ohm and a variable resistor 0-500 Ohm. I figured I could dial in the gauge with the variable resistor. I need somebody that knows Mr Ohm better than I do.

The gauge has 107 ohms across the terminals, 106 Ohms, gauge + to ground and 213 Ohms through the – term of the gauge to ground.

The sending unit is from Atwater-Kent and the readings are 5.5 Ohms between the terminals with the float raised to the full level and 315.0 at the empty position.

I have been trying with the jumper leads connected to the VR then the 300 or 51 Ohm resistors. Does it make any difference which resistor is positioned where? I thought it was just the total resistance. Jim

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Thanks Jak,

I got a new sending unit from Atwater Kent so I hope it work with the mentioned resistance. Jim

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Thanks Greg. Jim

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Greg,

Here is the site for the Co. They have several locations in the country but only the 2 in TX do the metal printing. https://www.stratasysdirect.com/contact/tucson-arizona/

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I forgot they also can print aluminum and then several kinds of plastics and carbon fiber material, on different machines. Jim

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Greg,

They are printing the SS turbine blades for jet engines. The finished product has more density than cast but slightly less than a billet. They can also print Titanium and I forget if it was Monel or Inconel. They call it printing but it’s a 400w laser welding the powder layers together pass by pass.

I handled some samples of the SS & Titanium and the details that they can do are amazing. They can print a gear case with the gears in it that is enclosed, except for the lube access, and it’s done in one unit.

My window cranks fit onto a .375″ square shaft with a cross pin holding it on. I don’t know when P-A started and stopped the design I have. Jim”

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David,

I don’t have plans to do outside handles mainly since I had mine chromed and the chrome shop polished off the edge detail, that’s why I going to look into this route since both chrome shops in town don’t seem to care when polishing. Do you need all 16 inside handles and dash levers? If this is a viable option I’m going to see about the brackets and arms for the blanket rail behind the front seat. Jim

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Jim C,

Well while waiting for the first guy to get a good scan I went to a Stratasys branch here in Tucson and was able to talk to the dist. mgr. He said they don’t do scanning because they do a lot of work for graphic designers and that would be competing with their customers, I got the # of a GD that they send people to and I am waiting for him to call back.

I can’t get a price until I get the STL’s then it would be a quote not an estimate. From what he said or I understood, the machine that they would use to print the handles has a 9″x9″ bed or plate and if I only wanted one handle and it was the only thing on the plate it would cost $1000 for example but if there were 20 handles on the plate then the cost is shared among all the pieces and it would come down to $50 a piece plus the extra metal powder involved. I am thinking of making 3 sets of handles, pulls and window/seat/windshield cranks and both dash levers, 16 pieces per set. The window/seat and windshield cranks would have the rotating knobs printed all as one item. The material would be stainless steel and the surface finish can be as it comes off the printer or any state up to highly polished. I would choose the matte finish since my labor is going to be cheaper than theirs and whoever buys the spare sets labor would be cheaper than mine. But I can get the exact price after the STL programs are produced.

This is only for the 1930 Mod B with the art deco lines at the end of the handles, to do the handles that have the floral looking pattern it would require another set of STL programs, But the cost of printing should be about the same. It sounds like they don’t get modified in the STL format.

There are a lot of 30 Mod B cars listed in the directory so there must be some demand. Anybody that is interested let me know so I can try to get an idea of how many of what is wanted. I was told that if we are talking about full plates the time frame is a week to 10 days. The STL charges are a one time cost and I’ll add some for all the hassle but it’s not enough to change my retirement plans.

Any other questions let me know and I’ll try to get answers. Jim L

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Blaine,

Positive ground, positive goes to the points. Negative ground then Negative goes to the points. The points are just the ground. Jim L

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Jim C,

I found a company on the net that does 3D SS printing and the samples they showed were not outrageous for comparable size pieces and they even had a location here in Tucson so I emailed thinking I was getting Tucson but got an eastern state(not that there is anything wrong with that) and was told to send the part to Chatsworth CA to get the part scanned into STL then send them the file and they would quote and print. That would be fine if there wasn’t a need to talk to and show what I need to happen to a real person.

I have the part getting scanned and printed in plastic this weekend and if all goes well I’ll find out Monday if it works in plastic, then maybe it will work in SS. Jim L

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Dave,

Does the museum have a 3D scanner that can make STL files of parts like door handles and window cranks? Jim

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My old hen weighs 150lbs.

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Bill,

Thanks. Jim

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Bill,

Did you have all of the holes with wires or the temp sender in them? No vacant holes? Jim

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Correction on my wire totals, there is only the one coil primary, wire it branches off on the engine side of the firewall to each coil. So that leaves 5 holes I don’t know what goes through them. Jim

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