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Viewing 20 posts - 61 through 80 (of 236 total)
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  • in reply to: Window Crank Needed #406885

    Jay,

    I went through that tunnel trying to get door handles printed. Stratasys wouldn’t give a quote without a STL program, the person they recommended to do the scan couldn’t get the depth of the hole to come out. I had a graphic designer do a STL and Stratasys said $750 per handle with a full plate of 15 I think it was. So $300 later I still need handles.

    3D printing would be great if they can get it to an affordable price. Jim

    in reply to: map light on instrument panel #406790

    Arnold,

    No factory switch on the rt side of the column. That’s where I mounted 2 switches for the elec fuel pump. Jim

    in reply to: map light on instrument panel #406785

    Arnold,

    On my 30 B my switch doesn’t have the top switch, I have the switch under the left side of the dash like Tom mentioned. The light, I thought was an ignition switch light since you can twist it and it shines on the switch, it seemed too low for a map light. The switch on the left side is a 3 position switch center off, left for the ign/maplight right for the gauge/maplights. Doesn’t mean it’s correct but that’s the way it was so I wired it back that way. Jim

    in reply to: Wanted 1931 dash clock #406624

    Dave,

    Do you have a picture of what it looks like? If you had one. I have a box of different length stems and Waltham clock parts I need to get rid of. Jim

    in reply to: 1929 trunk rack 2 piece #406567

    Dave,

    I don’t know if this helps but on my 30 the strips are

    Length 33 7/8″

    Width 1″”

    Back 4 captive studs 9″” on centers

    Material Stainless Steel stamping with a raised center “”wear strip”” Jim”

    in reply to: 1929 trunk rack 2 piece #406553

    Rick,

    My luggage rack is as you describe, the flat surface is 2 pieces with a solid end piece that holds the 2 pieces together and no way to fold the platform as per Karls second post Apr 3 8:48 PM, on the Rt side of the diagram as shown. I’m pretty certain that mine is original, with the car being in the family I got it from since the 30s. Mine is a 1930 Mod B.

    The curved supports have 3 holes but only 2 are used and I can’t figure out how those links should fit either because it looks strange with the part hanging down from the bracket. I would think if it was supposed to pivot at all it would have been shown in a phantom view like the other style rack in drawing. Jim

    in reply to: 1930 Model B Limo #406483

    On my 30 Mod B there is no inside lock on the rt frt door and in the original door panel there is no opening that would have given access to any mechanism. Jim

    in reply to: OPTIMA 6V Red Top Battery Deal #406455

    Peter,

    DuraCell makes a tender that is .8 amps and automatically will go to 6 or 12V plus 12.4 I think it is for lithium batts. I got it at Batt Plus, I think they are a national chain. Jim

    Brian,

    Use the 10-32 threaded rivets #12 is really what you need but I couldn’t find them without buying a box of 100, same with the nuts. #12 anything seems to be pretty much obsolete now. 1/4″ is too large unless you want to drill out the holes and they might look too bulky. Jim”

    Brian,

    Classic Car Club of Southern California, c/o Steve Snyder, (Vault Classic Cars) 1164 E. Elm Ave, Fullerton Ca. 92831 Jim

    in reply to: charging your iPhone in a 6 volt car #406164

    Scott,

    Are you going to camp in your car? Why not just charge the phone in the motel room? How about the small solar charger from China Outlet (harbor freight)

    in reply to: 2018 Barrett -Jackson Auction Observations #405882

    Jim,

    Does B-J get 10% from the seller AND a commision on the sale or only the 10% from the seller? Jim L

    in reply to: Hood corners #405724

    David,

    What is the thickness of 2oz leather? I might have some scraps and don’t know what it is. Jim

    in reply to: Hood corners #405678

    Thanks for shaking the cobwebs loose. I’ve been overthinking this off and on for a year, I have some sheet brass and never thought of using it for the backing.

    Brilliant technique and looks great. Jim

    in reply to: Lock & Stitch Inc. #405477

    Curtiss,

    I have use Lock & Stitch to repair both cylinders on a Tourist and it worked great. Jim

    in reply to: Rear Universal joint #405354

    Greg, I might look into a removable shield on the underside of the body to catch the oil that flys off. It’s been so long since I did the front wheel bearings, crankcase and pinion seal but I think I found modern lipped seals for all. Jim

    in reply to: Rear Universal joint #405341

    A lip-seal might be able to be adapted to the outer seal but the inner is a curved disc that rubs against the inner side of the spherical outer shell, so it needs to be almost a flat surface attached to the inner disc. If that makes sense. Jim

    in reply to: Rear Universal joint #405329

    Greg,

    I never got the yoke off, I got the housing and inner seal plate cleaned and made a cork ring for the inner seal and super glued it in place then made a leather strip for the outer seal. I don’t know if it’s correct since the inner seal was missing but it’s not leaking yet. But I haven’t driven it either.

    Maybe it will be like a Harley Davidson and mark it’s territory at every stop.

    I need to get a picture of what I need for the trunk rack to you and see if you have any pieces. Jim

    in reply to: Luggage Rack #405255

    Paul,

    That’s exactly what I needed, Thanks. In you parts manual does it show an exploded view of a driveshaft for the same 30 Mod B? Jim

    in reply to: Oil Pressure Gauge Adjust #405254

    Peter,

    It was 50 years ago when I heard of Bourdon tube gauges, I’m lucky to remember Borden let alone how to spell it. I wasn’t paying that much attention then since I knew it all, now I realize how much I don’t know. I just thought a vacuum might be able to nudge the tube back into shape and not have to deal with the adjusting. Jim

Viewing 20 posts - 61 through 80 (of 236 total)