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Rick, yes in 2018 we would call it a circuit breaker, in ’29 they call it a limiter. When this does the job,the result is you hear a “buzzing””. It is limiting current so you don’t damage anything with a dead short. the ’29 has no fuses to blow. Hope this helps. Karl”

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Rick, The relay behind the dash on 1929’s is a circuit breaker. If it keeps going open, then you have a grounded wire. Start by removing the wires from the steering wheel side of the amp gauge one by one and see if you can keep 6 volts on the output side of the relay. Sounds like a headlight or tail light wire…or? Karl

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Calif. region of the CCCA has them for sale. go to the web site for the info. PIERCE-ARROW SERIAL NUMBER PLATE. 5-3/8” x 3-1/4”. Black and aluminum. Blank space to stamp serial number. Product #653 – $25 each. Duplicates of originals. Photo of item at http://www.vaultcars.com. Include 15% S&H. CA residents add 8% Sales tax. PAYABLE TO SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA REGION CCCA.  For Paypal add 3%. Vault Classic Cars, 1164 E. Elm Ave, Fullerton, CA 92831.

La Vine Restorations also sells them if you can not get Vault Cars to reply copy and paste below

http://www.pulferandwilliams.com/Pierce-Arrow/

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Note the dual side mounts! Karl

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Rich, to get back to your original question on wipers: The $1600 dollar set would work, but are not correct. They do not have the small inside arm for the driver to hand crank the wiper. The un-restored one from the same seller on e-bay has for $250 is the correct one for the drivers side, but needs chrome plated and restored to work.(mounts half moon up) The open cars have a clearance problem with the after WWII replacements with the bigger body hitting the front top bow. The replacement ones have the body that is almost to the mounting screws and not the fragile arm like you see in the $1600 dollar set. Hope this helps. If you want to use the later bigger body, they work but have to be mounted upside down.(half moon down) Most people would never know the differance. There are lots of these that come up for sale. They do however take up more of the already short glass! Karl

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Richard, After spending all the money to chrome plate the two part flat bezels, only the outer rings and letters show the chrome, the rest is painted black. I lay them flat, then flood the bezel with thinned black paint from a needle and it fills the bezel and keeps the words from being covered. I have seen many that were plated and left all chrome but this is not how they left the factory. I will post a photo of repainted bezels when I get to my old car shed. Karl

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Richard, are all of your interior handles “oak leaves”, or long thin Deco lines? The handle for spark and heat riser change depending on the trim used. The deco handles are about twice as long as the oak leaves. The lever shafts were known for rusting at the firewall socket and with the cheap white metal used they are not as strong as the rust. This is why we so many broken handles on unrestored cars. The oak leaves are available as a repro. I have not seen the deco handles offered by anyone. Karl

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Peter, Thanks for the kind words. The lifter bracket project was one that was difficult to bring to members due to the process needed to go from broken parts to a casting pattern that accounted for the 1/2in. per foot shrinkage of molten grey iron,the placement of core boxes, and the multi-step machining of the part. The first run took over two years. We now have over 30 Series 80 and 81’s that are running this set of Brackets. I urge everyone to support all the members and PAS Foundations repro projects as they come avaliable because many times there are years between runs! Karl

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Did anyone see this car cross the auction block a few weeks ago? Did it sell? thanks, Karl

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Randy, Back to the original question, for $15 you can order the complete wiring and tune up guide from the PAS. Click on “products”” under the Members section. It is the second item on the page. I saw they were in stock at the Meet in St. Louis. Karl”

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Randy, all good info, but to answer your original question you can test for correct polarity of the ignition coil by using a voltmeter. Connect the negative lead to the (-) negative terminal and the positive lead to the engine block.

Volt Meter : Set the meter on the highest volt range (these connections are the same whether you have a positive ground or negative ground electrical system). The secondary winding’s polarity, which you are testing, is determined by the combined hookup of the battery and primary windings.

Crank the engine over (do not start it) and the needle of the voltmeter should show an upward swing to the plus or positive side (do not worry about taking a reading). If volt the needle swings down to the negative side and gives a negative reading, your coil is hooked up backwards. To correct the polarity, simply reverse coil primary leads.

A coil with reversed polarity will have about a twenty percent lower output which may not show up at idle and low rpms, but can cause an engine to miss or stumble under load and at higher engine rpms. Model A supplier Snyders makes a “tool”” for this they sell for $25 . part number A-12116 in there online catalog in case you want to start checking a lot of them!!! Karl”

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Randy, if original, it should be going to the two front headlight light bulbs. Problem would be from fuse to headlight sockets, not from switch to fuse. 5th fuse is batt to switch, switch to number 3 fuse. Karl

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Charles, Got your monies. Bearings are in the mail. Let me know if you have any problems installing them. Karl

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Charles, Check with the Series 80 guys for the drain cock, the 8cyl cars do not have this plug. I do not have any for sale . Karl

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Charles, glad to help, $62 should get them to you priority mail. I have installed five sets, and sold many more. I only had one tooth holder fight me. The original milling of the fork was shallow on just one side and required minor grinding to fit one outer washer. Keep in mind the washer does not spin. The original bearing used the housing and tooth as races. The replacement has hardened washers ground to make the .250 total bearing. Also be sure to re-weld the bolt after you install the tooth again. Something else to keep in mind: you can distort the holder and bind the bearings by over torquing the bolt. Call me if you have any questions. Karl

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Here is the bearing we supply with spacer, and 2 hardened washers. Karl

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Charles, Looks like your truck uses the same bearing as the 1929 and 30 cars, and have the same problems. Two bearings sell for $55 plus shipping, Karl

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Charles, It sure looks like the replacement bearing kits we sell for 1929-30 Gimmer boxes. Please measure one of the rollers, if it .250, then check bolt hole and width, We may be able to sell you 2 of them. After a railroad crossing sent one set of rollers and the white metal race to the bottom of the box years ago we have come up with a solution. Karl

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William, My unrestored 1921 Pierce R10 truck wheels has flecks of the same orange paint you have found. It also has a bright blue. I removed some of the grease at the hubs on the inner front wheels to make these discoveries. Karl

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Charles, Just get a check in the mail, and I will ship as soon as it arrives. Karl

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