I am happy that I do not live in the Peoples Republic of California. In Washington, antique car YOM plates are $35.00 – one time only. No annual renewal thereafter is required.
I read the story of the inventor of power steering. He, the name escapes me, installed a demo unit into a Pierce and attempted to sell the idea to Detroit. He did not succeed in his efforts to market it, and others eventually stole his invention. I’ll have to search further for the book.
I notice a few problems with authenticity, fairly easy to correct though:
Hinges and light trim rings should be body color, missing Startix and rear emblem, wheel pinstriping, wiper arms and hose clamps are incorrect, automatic choke cannot operate (interference with heater hose).
Thank you for your kind words. I owe a great debt to the many PAS folks who have helped me along the way. I try to share what I’ve found out with others in the PASB, to ease their path.
It’s headed to the PAS Meet in July and then on to Pebble Beach Concours in August.
Bill Lyons’ Onan p/n above is for .30mfd condenser. My 12 needs a .20-.25mfd range condenser. Does anyone have a p/n for the correct value? My Onan parts guy has only application info that does not show the mfd specs.
Or, does anyone know that a .30mfd unit would be OK? That is, is there published literature that shows acceptable mfd ranges for our distributors?
Come on Paul! Your front door cannot open.
This car was previously owned by J. Crosby (UT). There are a number of authenticity issues, starting with the Seagrave engine.
Gentlemen,
Greg is absolutely correct in his comments above. Please refer to my article in PASB 2011-1 for a complete discussion about grease and oil zerks. The steering gears are oiled with an oil gun, never with grease.
PASB 81-3 and PASB 88-4 have original PA Service Department Letters for Lube recommendations – Steering lubricant is to have “good cold and mobility characteristics” without providing a specific product.
I have 1936-38 lube charts from several companies. Richfield says SAE 140 gear oil, Summer and SAE 90 gear oil, Winter. Those old seals leaked a lot! My steering gear has a modern lip seal, so I use tranny oil.
Ken,
Go back to page 68 of this message board, Carl Kimberlin, 19 MAR’13, article; scroll down to my article, 09 FEB ’13. You will see a pic of my battery wiring.
Peter et all,
PASB 2013-2,p.8, shows my 1703 battery wiring. The “flag”” terminals make it very sanitary installation. Take a look.”
I suggest threaded rivets from Restoration Supply Co. They have an unslotted head, but are threaded for a standard nut. They can later be removed without damaging the plate, which is nearly impossible with the original “drive”” rivets.”
Peter,
I replaced the original GE 2330 (32/32cp) headlight bulbs in my 1703, with GE 2530 (50/32cp). I have had no recent luck finding these bulbs though.
I found my seal number: National Federal Mogul 4724095S.
On my 1703, I machined out the original felt seal carrier for a type 47 nitrile lip seal. The carrier ID was 3.178″ and the lip seal needs a 3.1875-3.1905 ID. I got the seal from NAPA, but do not have the part number in my files.
Patrick,
I find the comments in this, and the cited previous discussions, confusing. First, you should have found that the battery terminals could not easily be interchanged. The positive terminal is larger than the negative on all dry/wet automotive batteries.
Secondly, if the generator has been changed to a negative ground unit, the coils must have been changed too. Coils are designed to be either pos gnd or neg gdn, not both. They will function with reversed polarity, but at reduced efficiency, and may cause plug firing issues.
Thirdly, one does not need a second wire to power any component in either pos gnd or neg gnd systems. The frame was the original second conductor in both cases.
Relax kids. The most common radioisotope of Polonium is Po-210. It is an alpha particle emitter with a half life of 140 days. That means that its decay to harmless levels takes only four years. Even when new Po-210 is harmless unless it is ingested, i.e. ground up and swallowed or inhaled. Seems unlikely for sparkplug electrodes.
David,
I hope you noted that 1703 is Seagrave powered.
For David: I cannot see a good reason not to retain the OEM brake system, just like we do not “upgrade”” any old car system. Keep it original.
For Stu: I see several major “”authenticity”” problems in the pics of the 1703 – like Segrave!
For all: I would like to find info on OEM Pierce car hitch for the Travelodge and info on the OEM connection to the Pierce brake vacuum system. Any help available out there?”
My guess is that it is not unlocked and the 1/2″ movement is the bending of the latch. When unlocked there is no reason that the cap will not tip out for removal. Check the movement of the keyed latch again.”