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I took the advice of my metal woodgraining expert and I believe my interior came out just right. He finishes the metal woodgraining with Omni Plus MC161 “High Solids Urethane Clear”, flattened to a semi-gloss with Omni M148 “Flatting Agent”. I did the same on the wood.

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At my request, YnZ ran a ground wire to all components when making up the harness for my 1703. A great way to solve all those grounding issues, if you are rewiring the whole car.

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Peter,

Tsk,tsk,tsk, really, “eyre””?

Wouldn’t that be “”ire””?

Bob”

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I would add another step to George’s advice; After lightly inflating the tire bounce it smartly on the ground several times, then deflate it completely and re-inflate to final pressure. This will ensure that no folds remain in the tube from the initial insertion into the tire.

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While the above suggestions will provide good results, I have found that the boating folks have produced a far superior product for shaft sealing. A braided packing of high quality flax rovings impregnated with TEFLON is available (West Marine, for example) that seals with much less friction. The Western Pacific Trading Company PTFE FLAX shaft packing is to be installed with their SYNTEF packing lubricant. I have used this combination for over twenty years, with no problems — no leakage and no scored or galled shafts.

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Check out CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer) at restor-it.com. It is used a lot in boating repairs. I used it to treat a small dry-rot area in my Pierce.

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Peter,

I am very much interested in Bernie’s tables of “known P-A cars”, could you e-mail me a copy of the list?

Thanks,

Bob

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Sorry John, but your advice is bad in two very important ways. First, silica sand should never be used on internal surfaces of any machinery. Sand particles remain after cleaning and make their way into the lubrication where they will destroy bearings. Second, silica sand should not be used as a blasting agent due to extreme health hazards. Google silicosis! There is a variety of safe media available; glass beads, garnet, steel slag, etc. I buy several different materials from a local supplier to save the shipping cost from folks like TP and Eastwood.

Bob

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Richard,

I highly recommend that you treat all wood surfaces with a clear penetrating epoxy sealer (CPES) prior to repainting. It seals, strengthens,and primes the wood. I use Restor-It brand, which is available from boat repair facilities. It is about the viscosity of water and soaks into old, dry wood readily.

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The undercarriage is indeed judged. There is a specific line item, scored 0 to 5 points, for “Physical Appearance of Undercarriage, Splash Pans”. “Every effort effort should be made to ascertain the general appearance and maintenance of the undercarriage as far as reasonably possible. Absent splash pans or belly pans on vehicles prior to 1920 are cause for mandatory deduction”.

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My 1703 has both a roof wire connection and an under-the-running board antenna originals, no whip. Who has an original whip?

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Greg,

I also think you are a font of info–maybe a Helvetica or a Times Roman.

But, maybe a fount of knowledge too?

Bob

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Steve,

That was the original material. I replaced mine with a sandwich of 1/4″ plywood top and bottom, with a filler of modern insulation/sound dampener material inside. I then protected the underside with sheet metal, same as the originals.

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I got my 1703 harness from Y n Z and the only difficulty was the small difference between their 1803 pattern (from Eric Roseneau’s car) and the 1703, which Gene Zdunowski promptly resolved. Perfect repro harness.

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Steve,

I suggest that you refer to PASB 2011-1 for helpful hints on lubricating your Ross Steering gear. The key point is, that if you do not know for certain that your steering box has not been lubed with grease via the Alemite zerk, you should open it before adding oil. Few folks out there know about oiling via the zerk and use a grease gun.

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John,

Yes, the rubber runs the full length of the board. What is it that you are trying to do?

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My 1703 has a 73-1/2″ running board.”

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I can see two problems with your reproduction sticker; the company name should be hyphenated, and the perimeter should be a double line vice single. If you look carefully, you can see both of these features in your pic of the original. The outer line is slightly wider than the inner and the hyphen is barely visible. Otherwise your reproduction looks identical to the original on my Model B Travelodge and I would like to purchase two from you if they can be corrected.

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Better yet, send them to Arnold Romberg so we can all get them in a PAS Service Bulletin.

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I might add that a weak spring can be a problem. A common misconception is that the camshaft-driven arm does the pumping; not true. The arm pushes the diaphragm against the spring pressure and the rebounding spring does the actual pumping.

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