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We can all be proud of Roger’s work on the Arrow. And, we can be happy that whoever wrote the Emporium article on “?The Arrow? Receives the Golden Quill award for 20″” doesn’t write the Arrow.”

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Kudos and many thanks to Ben and the Texas Meet team. We thoroughly enjoyed the Hill Country again. And, Dave, that is a good looking 1703 in your pics!

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It sounds like you need to adjust the Power System setting. My book says..”Pump piston to rest on seat of by-pass jet (less overtravel) with throttle valve opened 27/64″” +/- 1/64″” drill (maximum pump setting)(measure with shank end of 27/64″” drill); adjust pump stem nut to obtain correct setting.”””

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Peter,

Sorry for the typo in the above. It should read — “In Jul ’06, Doug —-“

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Peter,

Be very careful in your dealings with SMS. In Jul ’07, Doug Pollock promised to custom weave an exact copy of my model 1703 fabric to be delivered in 6 mos. TWO YEARS,25 phone/email contacts promising “soon”, and $2492 later I still had no fabric. After much gnashing of teeth, I got a full refund in Apr ’08. A week later I had dark gray Bedford cord fine rib fabric from Bill Hirsch. If you wish, I can send you a copy of my log book.

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I took the advice of my metal woodgraining expert and I believe my interior came out just right. He finishes the metal woodgraining with Omni Plus MC161 “High Solids Urethane Clear”, flattened to a semi-gloss with Omni M148 “Flatting Agent”. I did the same on the wood.

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At my request, YnZ ran a ground wire to all components when making up the harness for my 1703. A great way to solve all those grounding issues, if you are rewiring the whole car.

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Peter,

Tsk,tsk,tsk, really, “eyre””?

Wouldn’t that be “”ire””?

Bob”

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I would add another step to George’s advice; After lightly inflating the tire bounce it smartly on the ground several times, then deflate it completely and re-inflate to final pressure. This will ensure that no folds remain in the tube from the initial insertion into the tire.

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While the above suggestions will provide good results, I have found that the boating folks have produced a far superior product for shaft sealing. A braided packing of high quality flax rovings impregnated with TEFLON is available (West Marine, for example) that seals with much less friction. The Western Pacific Trading Company PTFE FLAX shaft packing is to be installed with their SYNTEF packing lubricant. I have used this combination for over twenty years, with no problems — no leakage and no scored or galled shafts.

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Check out CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer) at restor-it.com. It is used a lot in boating repairs. I used it to treat a small dry-rot area in my Pierce.

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Peter,

I am very much interested in Bernie’s tables of “known P-A cars”, could you e-mail me a copy of the list?

Thanks,

Bob

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Sorry John, but your advice is bad in two very important ways. First, silica sand should never be used on internal surfaces of any machinery. Sand particles remain after cleaning and make their way into the lubrication where they will destroy bearings. Second, silica sand should not be used as a blasting agent due to extreme health hazards. Google silicosis! There is a variety of safe media available; glass beads, garnet, steel slag, etc. I buy several different materials from a local supplier to save the shipping cost from folks like TP and Eastwood.

Bob

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Richard,

I highly recommend that you treat all wood surfaces with a clear penetrating epoxy sealer (CPES) prior to repainting. It seals, strengthens,and primes the wood. I use Restor-It brand, which is available from boat repair facilities. It is about the viscosity of water and soaks into old, dry wood readily.

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The undercarriage is indeed judged. There is a specific line item, scored 0 to 5 points, for “Physical Appearance of Undercarriage, Splash Pans”. “Every effort effort should be made to ascertain the general appearance and maintenance of the undercarriage as far as reasonably possible. Absent splash pans or belly pans on vehicles prior to 1920 are cause for mandatory deduction”.

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My 1703 has both a roof wire connection and an under-the-running board antenna originals, no whip. Who has an original whip?

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Greg,

I also think you are a font of info–maybe a Helvetica or a Times Roman.

But, maybe a fount of knowledge too?

Bob

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Steve,

That was the original material. I replaced mine with a sandwich of 1/4″ plywood top and bottom, with a filler of modern insulation/sound dampener material inside. I then protected the underside with sheet metal, same as the originals.

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I got my 1703 harness from Y n Z and the only difficulty was the small difference between their 1803 pattern (from Eric Roseneau’s car) and the 1703, which Gene Zdunowski promptly resolved. Perfect repro harness.

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Steve,

I suggest that you refer to PASB 2011-1 for helpful hints on lubricating your Ross Steering gear. The key point is, that if you do not know for certain that your steering box has not been lubed with grease via the Alemite zerk, you should open it before adding oil. Few folks out there know about oiling via the zerk and use a grease gun.

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