[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Stu,

I have that covered via my RIT Mechanical Engineering student son, Cole.

However, perhaps we can persuade the PAS Museum or the AACA Library to buy one to go into the business of reproducing hard to find parts.

The PAS bought the AACA a scanner so that they could scan all of our documents, so why not buy them a 3D printer so that they can reproduce parts for PAS members at a reasonable cost?

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Charles,

If you want a set of original Series 80 valves, be in touch, as I may have a set.

All are in good condition, but 91-years-old.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

You can buy sound damping material with foil backing at a marine (boat) store.

It is very dense and will probably kill all of the sound that a P-A can transmit.

I used it to deaden the sound of the diesel engine when I owned a sailboat and not a Pierce-Arrow (a sailor vs. a landlubber).

It deadens sound and insulates temperature sufficiently so that I installed a blower to suck the air out of the engine compartment so that I wouldn’t bake my newly purchased and installed diesel engine.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

That is Angelo Amara’s car.

Nice car, rare body.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Ditto Rhode Island Wiring.

http://RIWIRE.com

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Stu,

That is a great idea.

My son Cole is a Mechanical Engineering student (next semester is the last semester, I trust) at RIT, Rochester Institute of Technology.

I bet that he could pop a few out without a problem.

I’ll ask him what type of metal they could use.

I am having them cast in bronze (at a very reasonable price) because I was afraid that in aluminum the tiny little ears would succumb to vibration as did the pot metal.

Best,

Peter

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Gents,

If it matters to any Series 81 Guys, I committed to have a few of these cast in bronze.

Be in touch if interested, as the price will be reasonable.

Peter

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Richard,

What a wonderful acquisition.

Peter

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Charles,

Perhaps a previous owner moved the front of the cab forward to obtain more leg room, as if your truck is supposed to be like the Series 80 / 81 cars, there is precious little leg room.

If it was moved forward, there should be bolt holes in the chassis showing the original position, as in that piece of steel shown in your photo that is bolted to the frame and moves forward and then drops to attach to the front of the cab.

Also consider if that piece is reverse mounted.

If you reverse it by moving it to the driver’s side, and vice versa, will you get the extra space you need to fit a cowl before the cab?

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

Do you want to buy some Snake Oil, it cures everything!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

Buy from within the Society!

It supports members who go out of their way to make the correct items for our special cars.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

I compared the size of my thin, ⅞-inch, open ended wrench against the P-A wrench and the outer dimensions of the new wrench is much larger / wider than the P-A wrench and will likely bind because there is not that much space within the front brake cavity.

You could use it and see if it works and if not, you could grind down the outer diameter.

Or to keep it simple, you could just contact Karl Krouch and buy a real P-A Series 80 front brake adjusting wrench and pick up a tool roll while you are at it.

Cheers,

Peter

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Randy and Ken,

The difference between the front brake wrench and a standard wrench, besides being thin, is that the end / bottom of the opening is rounded to accommodate the somewhat rounded brake adjuster.

It will be interesting to know if a standard ⅞-inch, thin, open end wrench will work for this application.

BTW Randy, you can always contact Karl via PAS email.

The wrenches are small and light, so postage will be inexpensive.

Peter

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Gents & Ladies,

BTW, apropos of Greg’s suggestion about the Delrin, I just remember that I have a friend who casts metals as a hobby, so I may have a few non-functional Temp Compensators cast if there is any interest.

If any of you Series 81 guys have such an interest, be in touch and I will see if it is cost effective to run such a project.

Otherwise, I will just ask him to cast two in bronze.

Peter

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Greg,

The left ear on mine is now remodeled with JB Weld, then JB Steel, then JB Weld as a cover coat followed by paint.

Maybe it will hold, but then again, maybe it won’t.

I don’t drive year-round, so the functionality is lost on my Series 80 on which I run an O-3, however, I would like one.

That stated, I understand that I have a fat chance of getting one.

Peter

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Ken,

BTW, the Owner’s Manual has the procedure for adjusting the brakes.

It is not difficult, but somewhat labor intensive the first time through.

The fronts are easy, but the rears require more concentration to get them correct because of the equalizer brackets.

If they are set up correctly now, but just in need of adjusting, they are a snap.

However, you will need a Front Brake Adjusting wrench.

Someone reproduced those years ago, but I DK who.

I will see if I have a spare.

Peter

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Ken,

Contact Karl Krouch about the Tool Roll.

He has them made and they are very nice.

You are correct that the bag offered on eBay is not correct for your Series 80.

Later today, if I remember, I will snap a photo of the tool roll and send it to you.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

BTW, Restoration Supply sells High Head Hex bolts.

They are pricy, but they are available.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Charles,

Contact Wayne or Marc Hancock for the horn assembly parts.

They may still have some that they reproduced.

Also, as Bill pointed out, soak that sucker with Kroll, PB-Blast or acetone / ATF and be careful, as you do not want to dent the aluminum.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

I stand corrected, Paul Jacobs is offering his Radiator caps again, perhaps based upon recent demand.

Check out the Emporium.

Also, William, Paul should be able to tell you if his caps will fit your car.

Peter

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