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Here is the Series 80 Lubrication info from George Teebay.

George, I trust that you do not mind my passing it along.

Transmission & Rear End Oil: P-A [the company] only provided owners with the push-type heavy-liquid-dispensing grease gun, called, ‘compressor, grease’ in the owner’s manual. Because of the frequency of required lube, they assumed that much of the routine lubrication would be done by owners. That heavy liquid was ‘Special Compound,’ which was their proprietary name for 600W. Texaco Thuban – SAE 250

I use 600W ONLY for the transmission and the steering box. (You should also use 600W for the Bowen auto-lube system.) I do NOT use the push-type gun for any of them–especially not for the steering box because you can still blow out seals with that. Heat a bottle in a pan of near-boiling water then pour using a small-aperture funnel. I’d prefer to use the 600W from a Model A Ford supplier for all 600W applications other than the transmission–but make sure you’re getting the dark, smelly, viscous 600W and not the clearer, thinner stuff some sell as 600W but which I think is just repackaged SAE 140.

Differential: They did not have hypoid-style gear oils in 1928 (but they were close to it at that time), which is STRONGLY PREFERRED these days for the differential. As far as I know, SAE 140 hypoid-style gear oil is about as heavy as hypoid oil as we can find nowadays–but be sure to USE ONLY GL-4 rated, not synthetic (GL-6) or the now-common GL-5 which is for limited-slip diffs.

BOTH GL-5 AND GL-6 CAN AND WILL ATTACK YOUR BRONZE BUSHINGS!

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The Pierce-Arrow Legacy book is a good effort for someone outside of the Society!

It is an effort of love.

We Pierce-Arrow snobs thank you.

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Richard,

Post the video on YouTube and put the link on this website.

Cheers,

Peter

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Tim,

Check out this website for Ethanol free gas sellers in Maryland.

For others, the site is just: PURE-GAS.ORG

Peter

http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=MD

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Comfortable looking seat!

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Here is the click on link

http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/pierce-arrow/1603/1749314.html

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Resto-Supply also sells the cork floats in various sizes and shapes.

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Jennifer,

Did you run down the plate number shown in one of your pics?

Maybe it was still registered to the original owner at the time the pic was taken and your parents needed to get new plates.

Peter

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Bill,

In Massachusetts, you cannot register a car with refinished YOM plates, so register the car with the old plates at the DMV and then have them refinished.

You only have to show them the plates once.

Peter

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I was told that epoxy is fuel proof and a representative at POR-15 told me that it is impervious to fuel and ethanol.

Also, how about Bill Hirsch’s Fuel tank sealer?

I don’t know how it would work on cork, but you can always call them to find out.

How about the NITROPHYL that they sell at Restoration Supply? It is said to replace cork floats (see page 12 of their catalog).

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Contact Rhode Island Wiring.

They sell the flex conduit and the ferrules.

I think that their website is RIWIRE.com.

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Brooks,

I already did a search of Bernie’s records for Jennifer and came up with nothing besides the name of her Dad as the owner of the car. the prior owner was not listed.

Jennifer,

Perhaps, as Brooks suggested, Jim and / or Mary Anne Sandoro, owners of the Buffalo Transportation Museum, could provide information on the car, as they have a treasure trove of information related to the PAMCC.

Who knows, but having a chat with them while we tour their Museum will afford the opportunity to determine if they can be of assistance.

Jim and Mary Anne have always been quite kind to me and though unsolicited, provided me with information about my Series 80 and about my Aunt’s Uncle, who was the first family owner of my car and a PAMCC Supervisor. They are quite good people and well worth knowing.

Keep searching, you will prevail.

Peter

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Ed,

Thanks for the heads up.

Peter

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You can buy the water pump packing material at Restoration Supply Company.

They show the product on page 21.

http://restorationstuff.com/pdf/RestorationSupplyCompany.pdf

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Edward,

Here is an eBay listing. Maybe the mirrors are the same, but….!

Also, i like Bill Lyons’ input.

Good luck.

Peter

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-PACKARD-OR-PIERCE-ARROW-SPARE-CHROME-TIRE-COVERS-WITH-MOUNTED-MIRRORS-/171807400942?hash=item280084e3ee&vxp=mtr

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Edward,

Does the back end of the mirror stanton come off to get access to the stud?

If so, you might want to take it off and see if you can remove the stud to have it sort welded on to the mirror to reinsert it.

if not, you may be stuck with using JB Weld to reattach it (does it already have glue on it – it looks like there is something like that on the faces shown in the pictures).

However, with that solution you may lose your ability to adjust the angle of the mirror unless it adjusts by moving the stanton itself.

A third option is to take it to a restorer or a machine shop to see what they can do with it.

Good luck on that.

Peter

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Edward,

Could you post a pic of the problem?

It will help before anyone can make a reasoned recommendation.

Peter

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Jennifer,

I bet you that the either the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, or the City of Philadelphia, or both, collected taxes on that Pierce-Arrow and the old tax records may exist somewhere.

Peter

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Jason,

Do you have a laser thermometer that you can use to check for hot spots on the radiator?

If you find any, that may tell you where you have restricted flow.

You can get one for under $50.00.

Peter

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Oivind,

Can you give us a better link, as going to the http://www.prewarcar.com does not allow me to find the 1933 Pierce-Arrow 1242 V-12, or any variation on the theme.

Peter

[Author]

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