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Ric,
Check the socket for the spring that should be under the contact that touches the single contact on the bulb.
Perhaps when it was rewired someone (of course, not you) failed to inset it.
As far as the wattage goes, the P-A Wiring Guide indicates that the Series 80 dash bulb was a 4cp.
A 5-watt bulb would not be excessive, meaning that it will not run too hot.
The other point is that the only time you need it is when you drive after dark, and that likely doe not occur too often.
However, maybe you are a night owl and if so, be careful, as old car headlights are at best, dim.
Night vision goggles could be helpful and I recall one time driving at night and being pretty terrified as I drove down unlit country roads hoping to get back to the hotel in one piece.
Being that you are a Series 80 guy, be in touch if you have questions or need something for your 80.
There are a bunch of us Series 80 guys around, so we can be of help as you have questions.
Restoration Supply is a good place to find things and so are a number of the old Ford and Buick parts suppliers (for bits and pieces).
Peter
I believe that all of the PAMCC guys who knew why they created free-wheeling mid-range gears are now DEAD.
They probably were not as lucky as Tony Costa to make it down into the valley via the ROAD.
They probably took the short cut that Tony avoided.
Perhaps, the cars were made for Flat-Landers.
The bulbs are single contact, likely bayonet, 4 to 6 candlepower and of course, 6 to 8 volts.
A 5 watt bulb would do no harm.
A NAPA store or the like, would fix you up.
If not, go to a Ford Model T website, like LaBaron Bonney.
I don’t believe that the base of the bulb needs to be especially long.
Perhaps your contact in the socket is missing the spring that is supposed to be underneath it to add tension to the bulb when installed.
Also, what is NEW ORIGINAL wiring?
If original, is is NOS? If so, you may wish to get into new plastic shielded wiring.
If it is new, it may just look original, meaning plastic shielding with a cloth cover.
Rick,
You really need a better pic of what you need.
Take the part off and photograph it.
Or at least wrap some yellow electrical tape around the part you want before you take the pic.
I believe that the story is that the late, great Leo Parnagian’s Father-in-law was a collector and had Duesenberg cars and that Joan, Leo’s wife, drove them but hated driving a TRUCK, which is why Leo started in with Pierce-Arrow cars.
They reported that the Pierce-Arrow cars drove like a dream compared to the Duesenberg cars.
However, I understand that the Duesenberg cars are great for drag-racing.
Nice piece Brooks, or should I say nice Pierce!
The only Pierce-Arrow listed on eBay at this time is the same Series 80 that is listed in the Emporium.
Did it get away?
Rats!
Hi Tom,
Try this one, as it works for me.
You may have to cut and paste.
Peter
Bob,
You were asking about the correct engine colors, so I thought to post a pic of what my Series 80 engine bay looked like when I purchased it from my Uncle Joe’s estate.
His Uncle Joe worked in the PAMCC factory and was the Supervising Foreman of the Grishold Rear End section of the plant.
He bought it a few years old from the PAMCC, around 1928, but somehow I do not think that these were factory colors.
I hope you do a better job than did Great Uncle Joe.
Peter
Numerous heat cycles are necessary to set the hoses so that they do not leak.
You tighten the clamp a bit after each cycle.
I use modern S-S band hose clamps until the hoses set and then replaced them with the wire clamps.
There are fewer leaks this way as the wire clamps seem to be difficult for me to position correctly / snug sufficiently to initially set the modern non-natural rubber hoses.
As per the way this message board works, others will doubtless offer opinions and perhaps other more effective solutions to avoid the initial leaking problems with the wire clamps.
Also note the the clamps that I use seem to work the opposite of those shown above, in that the screw DRAWS /
PULLS the clamp tighter rather than PUSHING the clamp tighter.
I do not know which clamp is more correct or effective, but with with the clamps I use there is not an excess of screw hanging off one side when snuggled. It startles the center section.
Tomorrow, I will post a pic of the type of clamp that I use.
Ed,
WOW, what a find!
Peter
To follow up on Bill Rolapp’s comment, it would be GREAT if you submitted the description of your project, with pics, to Arnold Romberg for publication in the PAS Service bulletin.
It is an impressive piece of work and demonstration of same.
Optima has agreed to support our members and this website with a great deal on their 6-volt battery. The promotion is set to run from March 1-30th, is not stackable with any other offer, is only good for 6-volt batteries with a maximum of two per purchase and limited to Pierce Arrow Society members only.
From now until March 30th, members of the Pierce Arrow Society, who purchase a 6-volt RedTop battery online at shop.optimabatteries.com will receive special pricing of $100 per battery (normally $169.99) and free shipping right to their front door in the lower 48 states, by entering a unique coupon code when purchasing factory-direct at shop.optimabatteries.com .
Here is how the process works:
1. If you want the deal, send an e-mail requesting a unique one-time use coupon code to [email protected]
2. You will receive a unique one-time-use code that will be valid until 3/30 only. Codes will be invalid after Midnight on 3/30.
3. Once you receive your code, you will need to go to the Optima shopping site at http://www.optimabatteries.com…op-starting-battery/
4. Add the 6-volt battery (up to 2) part # 6V (8010-044) and go to the checkout cart
5. Here’s the important part: Enter your unique code that will calculate your discount on the Billing page of the check-out.
6. Finalize your order
7. Wait for your “Factory Fresh” Optima RedTop 6 volt to arrive at your door (usually within 4 days of your order).
This offer is limited to two batteries per household and will expire on March 30, 2015. This offer is only available on OPTIMA RedTop 6-volt batteries purchased directly from shop.optimabatteries.com .
Thanks Henry,
This is what the AACA wrote about Steve’s and Bob’s efforts.
“A Feeling for French Cars”, Steve Rossi
M. J. Duryea Memorial Cup
Steve is one of our most read columnist on the staff of Antique Automobile. His lifelong love affair
shows in the stories he writes and his long career in the automotive industry obviously helps him with his topics. The column about French cars was superbly detailed and caused a lot of interest and letters from our members.
“American Automobiles of the Brass Era”, Robert Dluhy
Thomas McKean Memorial Cup
This book with all its fantastic research had to have hurt his eyesight. Thousands of specifications are in one book and will be a treasured resource for brass car guys for a long time to come.
Again, Congratulations Gents!
Hello everyone,
FYI, Fay Butler is involved with the McPherson College folks, so at a minimum they have access to the Premiere Sheet Metal Fabricator in the Collector Car Hobby.
With this forum, they even have access to the vast opinions of the members of the PAS on matters other than body work.
Peter
PS: Tony, EONS are a long time from now, eh? Now THAT is survivability!
Scott,
The temptation to turn a lesser car into a more valuable one has been going on since the creation of Used Car Dealers!
BTW, when last I looked, the car was no longer listed on eBay.
Peter
Garrick,
Here is the info on your “A” engine
1930 A 144-in wheelbase, 300523 (Engine installed in Ray Rylander’s 1930 “C”, see ser #1003500)
PAS c. ‘67 to ‘93. Car has ‘30 B rdstr body and ‘30 A engine #300523.
Here is the info on you “C” engine:
1930 C 132-in wheelbase, 1003853 102558 Sedan McPherson (College)
Here is the no on you “B” engine – from a 1932 P-A:
1932 54 137-in wheelbase, 1050363 230080 Sedan (Past Owner) Feusi, Robert J., 7600 Red Bud Rd., Roseville, CA, 95661 c. ’69-’87. (deceased)
I hope this is helpful.
Peter
There are a few things going on with that eBay listing.
The opening price on the car is a bit steep and no reserve (?).
The car has obviously been through a number of “collectors” and it sounds as though the seller is a dealer and not a Pierce-Arrow guy.
The seller does not list the engine or body S/Ns so there is no way to track the car through the PAS unless someone happens to recognize it.
It does appear to be a “nice” looking car but i would think that more info is necessary to get someone to make the first leap and offer the initial $80K with the prospects of getting into a bidding duel for the car.
I do not even know if it is “correct” because I am not a 1930-A guy.
Also, what color is it? in one pic it looks blue, in a few others, perhaps burgundy.
From some angles, the paint does not look well done.
I would want to touch it and hear it run before I thought about laying out $80 to $100 large.
If it is a good deal, the snipers will come out to snag it in the last 30-seconds of the auction.
If they don’t come out to snipe, it was not a good deal.
Come to the Buffalo Meet this summer and get to drive some cars so you can find out which you like.
Finally, welcome to the Society!
It is a shame that there are such RATS in our hobby!
Tom,
On the passenger side of the oil pan there is a stopcock.
Open the stopcock and if oil comes out, the engine has at least sufficient oil.
If not, then add oil until oil comes out of the stopcock.
Do not mistake that SIDE stopcock for the DRAIN stopcock, which resides at the bottom right of the oil pan.
I believe that the Series 80 engine takes about 9-quarts of oil.
A bit more is fine.
Use Diesel Grade oil.
Good luck.
Peter
