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Viewing 20 posts - 1,281 through 1,300 (of 1,381 total)
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  • in reply to: 1919 48HP water pump #396953

    My experience with sailing vessels and the stainless on them taught me that with stainless, the faster you tried to drill (work) it, the more difficult it was to drill.

    Drill fast (work harden) and one burns up bits. If you slow down on the drilling, it cuts easily.

    I have a number of burnt titanium drill bits that show the effect of over eager drilling, as they are now JUNK.

    in reply to: SECOND FLORIDA REGION MYSTERY PHOTOGRAPH #396950

    I think it is the Prince of Wales, the one who abdicated for the woman from Chicago, what was her name?

    The divorcee, Wallace Simpson?

    it is a very nice landaulet.

    I would love to have a Pierce-Arrow like that one.

    in reply to: Recent Winter Meet & Board Meeting #396941

    I will chime in on this discussion and again thank David and Linda Baird for their huge effort in making a memorable Winter Meeting.

    Peter

    in reply to: Optima Red Top 6V Battery Deal!! #396937

    Thanks for the endorsement Tony!

    My next campaign slogan will be: A chicken in every pot!

    in reply to: Florida Region Mystery Photograph #396932

    I just went to the website: http://www.worldlicenseplates.com and looked up the Dist. Col. plates for the 1920s & 1930s. Some of the images shown (1924 through 1927) match the plate in the pic.

    The 1924 plate was yellow on black. The 1925 plate was white on dark blue. The 1926 plate was black on orange and the 1927 plate was yellow on black. The 1928 plate was black on yellow but had a different letter / number arrangement.

    Ergo, the plate shown in the picture was either 1924, 1925 or 1927, so I believe that my brain was correct in thinking the last digit on the plate across the top is 1924.

    The plot thickens!

    in reply to: Florida Region Mystery Photograph #412416

    Wowie-Zowie Ben!

    The full size pic on the Florid Region Newsletter has quite a lot of “grain” (for those of us who were brought up before the “pixel” age) so it is difficult to discern the small letters on the top of the License Plate.

    The License Plate number is “102” and my brain wants to say that the top of the license plate reads; “Dist. Col. 1924.” I only wish that I could get a good image of the P-A’s radiator mascot, but it blurs against the grey suit of the man directly in line with it. I want to say that it is an eagle of some sort.

    The second car in line seems to be a Lincoln, although it is not running a “Weed” style bumper. The headlight surrounds are black, Cadillac? Its License Plate number is 1-148 with the same abbreviations on the top of the plate.

    Is this helpful information?

    in reply to: Archer Related Information #412414

    There were / are two versions of the Helmeted Archer. I believe that the one with the foot dangling was from the 29 and required a raised radiator cap as shown in the EBAY example. I believe that the radiator cap shown on EBAY was correct, even though the seller thought it was a replacement. If it was a replacement, it was a correct replacement.

    Regarding the missing foot, I have one where my Plating Guy had his Repair Guy replace the missing half-foot and toes. It can be done and it is not too expensive. The repair is invisible.

    All tolled, my archer, purchased, repaired and re-plated cost about what the Archer sold for on EBAY and my arrow is not heading South!

    The William C. Williams book, “Motoring Mascots of the World” (page 62) indicates that there were two types, angled foot and dropped foot.

    in reply to: Motometer restorer recommendation? #396866

    There is an absolutely BEAUTIFUL MotoMeter Standard on EBAY, eBay item number:231085663906.

    It is expensive, but it is out of sight!

    in reply to: Motometer restorer recommendation? #396863

    Oh, I forgot to say, you should consult an experienced Moto-Meter EBAY buyer (I am available) as you ned to know that the piece WORKS before you buy a nice looking clunker (experience).

    If you want to know the trick, be in touch via telephone.

    Some sellers say that they did not test the piece, HA! Likely does’t work or else they don’t know how to boil water!

    in reply to: Motometer restorer recommendation? #412412

    If you go on EBAY, be patient and as Greg and others say, the plate is interchangeable.

    If the size is a De Luxe, the new ones from Resto Supply are about the same OD (3.5″) but thinner and if nothing else, it will get you through while you hunt on EBAY for an original.

    The Resto MOTOMETERS are chrome but the thermometer unscrews, so it could go to nickel easily. Then all you have to do is put in the correct nameplate.

    I have one of those Resto jobs and now I NEVER use it because I now have a collection of original Universals and one SUPER-DUPER De Luxe.

    The SIZE you want is the biggest issue in finding an excellent piece.

    in reply to: Motometer restorer recommendation? #412411

    What do you need to do to it?

    Re-plate it, tough to do.

    New thermometer? Tougher!

    Advise as to the problem and maybe we can help.

    Also specify the size (Universal (3″) or Standard / DeLuxe (3.5″).

    Often the best thing to do is hang out on EBAY for MONTHS and look for good one at auction.

    That stated, good ones are now more difficult to find.

    in reply to: George N. Pierce Architectural Drawing #396829

    Good buy David.

    I am envious that you have the wall space.

    in reply to: 1928 series 36 #396800

    Paul,

    PHEW! Quite a description. ;-)

    Peter

    in reply to: Insulation #396773

    Here is the second.

    in reply to: Insulation #396788

    Here are Roger’s pics.

    He apparently has PC problems.

    in reply to: Winter Time Projects & Photos. #396744

    Ed,

    If you want, send me the S/Ns of the cars and I can look them up on the tables I have from Bernie, just to see if they have a PAS history.

    BTW, NICE Pierce Ice Chest! Cool find, very cool!

    in reply to: front axle u-bolt nuts #396720

    Jim, Read the NASA piece on locking mechanisms. Interesting, however curious that the tension caused by a locker would disappear when flat. One would think that there is memory in the metal otherwise the locker would remain flat when the nut comes off. I will need to discuss this with my 3rd-year Mechanical Engineering student Son (He knows EVERYTHING – ;-) ).

    I also understand the concept behind stretching threads as the locking mechanism, I just thought that the lockers enhanced that otherwise, flat washers would do just as well.

    Need to meditate on this one.

    in reply to: front axle u-bolt nuts #412399

    I don’t believe that split ring lock washers are supposed to “bite” into the nut, but merely exert tension against the nut so that the threads of the nut exert pressure against the threads of the stud / bolt. That is what keeps things locked. Old split ring washers loose their spring and thus their ability to exert tension against the nut.

    If you want washers that “bite” you need STAR washers, most commonly used to insure good electrical contact.

    Why split ring lock washers would not be used on aircraft is the CONSTANT vibration and its related stress. The vibration itself would cause nuts and bolts to come undone which is why aircraft bodies are riveted and not bolted. Heck, the vibration of an aircraft causes the metal to rupture. You do not see that on an automobile.

    Your other nutty explanation seems reasonable, Cliff. :-)

    in reply to: front axle u-bolt nuts #396715

    Craig is correct, old lock washers tend to be junk!

    New stainless rules.

    in reply to: Body Tag #396713

    a third

Viewing 20 posts - 1,281 through 1,300 (of 1,381 total)