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Would 50+ years, next to a barn count?

46 years in a warehouse?

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She is very responsive and creative.

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And they can get gas!!!

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drop the first http://

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This looks like about the same.

http://https://www.completeautomobilist.com/products/716-window-channel-stainless-edge

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Peter,

You mention 51151 as cut up. This was 51150. Typo?

Bill

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He traded in 511150 Touring. Is that one around?

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More

http://www.theclio.com/web/entry?id=63470

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Here is an interesting article on the original purchaser’s house.

http://www.trippfuneralhome.com/stories

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Here is how the antenna was hidden in my Packard wheel well. Hard to notice when it is down

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Based on the 2 cars I have with burned roofs, the ground is an excellent point.

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Ok, my wife took on the crowds and ended up with a roll of paper 40″ x 30 feet with 1 x 1 squares on the inside. $4.95″

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I then check where the bows attach to the side headers. I had 2 low spots along the center and one on the side that will need to be corrected.

Can’t keep up with Jim’s presentation skills which are really awesome.

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Here is what you are looking for. This is a spot where the strapping does not touch a cross member. Either it is too low or one or the other or both of the bows on either side are off.

The “X””‘s represent low spots”

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Here is the loosely assembled roof. The black stripe down the middle is the steel strapping. This is the fine tuning stage.

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Another point on the 5200. Once it goes together and sets up, you have to destroy the joint to get it apart.

To David’s point, this roof must have a 1000 screws in it and very few tacks or nails. Might try a few tacks before I button everything up.

Whatever wood you end up with try to get quartersawn it is less prone to warping/cupping

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The last option is to do a length wise channel and the regular tenon.

Since one of the roofs I am doing doesn’t have any cross pieces, this method will allow you to slide them to what ever spacing is necessary, so there is no fixed point you need to accurately duplicate.

I plan to use 3M 5200 adhesive which is what they use for wood boat bottoms. It has some flexibility, is waterproof and best of all has about a 7 day cure time so you can assemble and adjust as needed without having to rush to beat the glue setup.

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The second option was to do a modified M&T., which is what I am doing on this roof. I used a forstner bit to cut the slot and then chiseled off the waste to make the sides square. This leaves round ends which I think will help with alignment and adhesive.

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Jim,

Man you are way ahead of me. Nice looking work.

I thought there were 3 options for attachment of the sides to the bows.

1. Original mortise and tenon. (See Photo).The problem with that is you need a tenoning jig which are about $400 for a good one. Or a lot of hand chiseling.

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Back to the roof. This is a picture of one of the bows out of my project roof. I has been warped but has the correct ends. To duplicate it I anchor the two ends of the strapping and put an adjustment block in the middle. Then I adjust the strap (via the middle block) until I get what looks like the correct arc., then trace it on the wood replacement stock.

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