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I think it was restored in Havana.

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Looking at the wiring diagram, I think that you probably have a wire to the coil, one to the Startex, one to the Generator relay and one to the AMP gauge, but since I have none of those, it is only a guess.

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Oh, That is Steele’s part in the photo. I picked that part to start with for 2 reasons. 1. it was in the worst shape and 2 if I screwed it up I had a lifeline.

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David,

One of the main reasons I do this is I love to learn and giving my credit card number to someone doesn’t forward that objective. When all else fails I can buy. I am working on some of the floor/mat rubber parts and I have the same issue as you. I will let you know where my experiments get me.

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In order to soften it up to the point I could more it, I fired up the trusty Google and came up with a 2 parts xylene and 1 part methyl salicylate which is know as oil of Wintergreen and is supposedly available at Walmart and hobby stores. I couldn’t find any so I got some from Amazon.

I mixed them in a plastic food tub with a lid, put the part in and waited 3 days. One of the byproducts of the Methyl Salicylate is it makes your garage smell like an old locker room full of Bengay.

I took the part out and it had swollen significantly and the hardness reading was about 2. I set it out for a couple of days and it started to return to near original size and the hardness went up to 10.

My part was too far gone to salvage, but I have some other parts that have good detail but are too hard. I wouldn’t soak them, but I think I will try brushing the solution on a few coats at a time to control the softening.

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In contrast, here is my part

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Bill,

Very nice word. What kind of wood did you use?

Bill

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Randy,

Thanks for the input. I haven’t tried walnut shells, just glass beads.

Jim,

I was able to get a spray version at Home Depot. You can apply multiple coats to get the required thickness.

Bill

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Plus he is a Virginian, I guess you both are.

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Bob,

I hold no animus towards engineers and I do appreciate your input. I will try the 24 hrs and see how it goes. You gave me what I needed. I didn’t know if it would take minutes, hours, days or weeks.

Thanks

Bill

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Here is a tech sheet on the model 10

http://restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=5454

http://restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=5454

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Jim,

It is a wrap around.

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Bob,

Thanks for the info. How long do you run the vibratory cleaner?

Bill

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Here it is after multiple coats. I would probably fill the pits I had before coating the next one.

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I went out and got a can of Performix Plasti Dip which says it is a multipurpose rubber coating. I sprayed the pitted part just to see how well it would cover. You can put multiple coating 30 min apart.

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I wire brushed it because I am 8 months away from my new house with a glass bead cabinet.

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I am working on a couple of rubber projects. I went over and got a hood corner off my ’33 836

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Ok, thank you Paul.

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This is the x David Duda car. Looks like enough parts to get the proper engine going

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If I read the numbers right the latches on a ’33 are 764581. Somebody have the ’34 numbers?

[Author]

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