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Adam,

There is a good article in the PA Service Bulletin 2008 #4. Looks like your engines are 2 months and 1235 apart.

K 12 15. Is 1930 December 15

K 10 13. Is 1930 October 13

Have you put your chassis # into the Identification Guide? It should list the range of engine numbers. The fact that these are 1930 engines seems odd if your car is a 32.

There should be a raised casting number on the side of the block,I think it starts with a 7. I would verify that but my block is in storage.

If the #’s are the same, I would think the parts would interchange. Let us know what you find. Good luck.

Bill

http://forums.aaca.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=733118

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The Complete Automobilst, in England has some. They also have the temp gauge fluid along with some other good stuff.

I tried to copy the link, but I couldn’t copy-paste it . Just google them

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There are several deflectors on eBay. You can even get this one and have a Packard eat your exhaust, kind of.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Exhaust-Deflector-Duplicates-Packard-Accessory-/191707490312?hash=item2ca2a82808&vxp=mtr

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I found this site. They handle Atwater Kent sending units, plus some other interesting components. I didn’t see anything about fluid, but maybe they have some info. I know nothing about them, just passing along info.

http://www.mykmlifestyle.com/Antique_Automotive_Parts.html

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Richard,

I think this is the wrong side.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1933-1934-PIERCE-ARROW-RH-CHROME-PARKING-LIGHTS-HORN-MOUNT-/141763508155?hash=item2101c377bb&vxp=mtr

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Bill,

I think you have very sharp eyes. I don’t think that there is room to mount the horn under the C bracket

Bill

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Richard,

I think they are the same as my ’33, which is A. Do any of the holes line up? If so which ones. I assume that the 2 hole side (radiator side) lines up? My guess is the finder bracket or frame is tweeked.

Bill

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Here is a better picture. The two Taliesen’s were FLW’s homes.

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I am guessing West. Look at the front door.

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Taliesen East or West?

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Here is some info

http://restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=154

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$2.95 from Mac’s Auto Parts.

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_early/fuel-gauge-liquid-red-for-hydrostatic-gauges-ford.html

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Stan,

I am not that familiar with your engine, but I would think you would have access to the valve stem through the tappet gallery or manifolds.

With the manifolds off, you would have access to the top of the guide and valve stem. I would heat then spray the stem with Kroil, WD 40, PB Blaster, etc and try to work it up and down. If that didn’t work, I would try access through the tappet gallery and the penetrant soaking routine. If not, then the head would have to come off. Good luck.

PS. is this what your engine is like

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Here is one source for repair

http://www.maxwellenamels.com/FAQs.html

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Here is the contact number

(805) 569-7160.

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Frank,

I did the conversion on my Model A Ford. There seem to be a lot of Ford kits.

Here is a good thread.

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/38410-three-brush-generators/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Diode-Conversion-Kit-For-Generator-Cut-Out-1932-1933-1934-/161511627427

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The Walker Scott store is from San Diego, so that shoots Detoit.

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Jacobsons was out of Michigan, so maybe Detroit?

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I think it was the work of a former Lucas of England engineer.

Looks pretty standard for my Morgan. Long live the “Prince of Darkness.””

and here is the perfect accessory for that harness”

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Tony,

Still fiddling with it. Pins are loose and the cover is poor. I am trying another approach. Let you know.

Bill

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