Sold for $50,000
Brooks,
Great piece. I appreciate you taking the time to look it up. Greensboro would be another logical place to try and sell Pierces in the ’20’s and 30’s.
Bill
Ed,
I am assuming that water gets in the oil and water is a very poor engine bearing lubricant. It looks to me like the 2 gaskets inside the side covers could be a easy point of failure as the core is a fixed length and the side covers have some variation due to the cover and line gaskets. If the gasket thicknesses are not perfect, I can see where water could get in the oil there. Also, as everything expands and contracts, over a heating cycle, there are parts that could loosen.
Bill
It is kind of hard to find USA made anything.
Ed,
Good to know. I will check with John. What fails?
Bill
He has reduced the price to $12,500 or best offer. Reality is slowly sinking in, I guess.
Jerry,
I think, because of the need to reinstall the piston and the inability to compress the rings, your question is moot.
Bill
Brooks,
Thanks for the info. The ad I saw only had the one site, N. Tryon. I think I have eliminated the following, unless Pierce changed dealerships after 1922 and before ’33:
Roamer Auto
Carolina Cadillac
CW Upchurch
and just down the street was Oscar J. Thies. He was at 500 N. Tryon and has some very colorful history. The building is still there, was designed by a famous Charlotte architect and is on the National Registry of Historic Places.
Here it is a link
Try this
When I copied the link and pasted it in the URL block, it added and additional http:
Sorry for my lack of internet skills.
Rick,
If all else fails, you can try these people
N/C Industries Antique Auto Parts
301 South Thomas Ave. PO Box 254
Sayre, PA 18840
Phone: 570-888-6216
They are listed in the parts registry. They are not quick, at the rate you are going the rest of the car will be done before you get the frame, but they offer at least an option.
Bill
It is listed as an Ex Harrah’s car and one of his favorites.
Tony,
You have to right click and highlight the whole 5 lines and then left click in the http block in your browser then right click “paste” then go.
I couldn’t find the chassis #2225002, in the roster. It is green.
Peter,
That is correct. I noticed that tomorrow will be 3 years since the initial post and at this rate it might be awhile before I can comment on the jiggle.
Bill
I finally found the “before”” picture”
I had to splice the top of another column on to mine as the threads were destroyed. I put a collar on the shaft as a stop and used a Hyatt type roller bearing (pic). which makes for a very smooth and firm upper part of the column. Column is 1 3/4 OD x .065(16ga)wall, Type 304 stainless tube. The 300 series have more chrome/nickel and polish up very nicely. They are also non magnetic, for what that is worth.
Thanks again for the help.
Bob and David,
I thought you deserved to see the finished product. It is unpolished stainless steel at the moment.
Your measurements and details were right on.
Thanks again.
Bill
John and Bob,
Thanks for both of your inputs. That is what I was looking for. What I am most worried about is the oil galleries/lines and the rust inside of them. That is the problem when you hot tank an engine then sit it aside for 50 or so years. 2 key things I worry about are silica dust and the isocyanides in paints.
John, your comment on self etching paint and WD 40 answers another question I had on what to do when it was clean. Thanks.
Good helpful points.
Bill
Thanks again. I will let you know what I come up with.
I was able to find a 2′ piece of bearing bronze. It is 2.5″OD x 2″ ID. All the bearings can be machined out of this size. Joe Knowles has offered to help. This isn’t like one of his Delta jets, but should be a satisfying project. I need to freeze the bearings to install them, so Greg’s offer was considered as I could just place them outside, but I am afraid spring has come.
I need to clean the block first. Most shops can’t handle anything over 36″ ( block is about 48″). I talked with Greg Long and we discussed electrolosys, molasses, etc. but they all take a tank you can fit a block in. The block was cleaned about 50 years ago, when the shops had the good chemicals, hot tanked everything and the EPA was just letters, so all I have is surface rust to remove, but it is everywhere.
Any suggestions?
Also look into truck tire tubes