Thanks, Fellows, I was able to get it off, just as you described. I was surprised that, although the outer bezel’s plating looks a little tired, everything underneath appears to be in very good condition. My milk glass is cracked so I will be scouring Hershey for a replacement.
It only needs about $60,000 in work; the rest will buff out…
I hope the buyer is or will become a PAS Member!
Ed that’s a beautiful car, and a beautiful shade of blue! Thanks for sharing!
I was able to see the rear view on Google Earth. Thanks!
Did you see/photograph the engine?
fascinating! Please keep us informed!
Of course the Pierce-Arrow with its torque arm, does not wind the rear springs up on acceleration or braking. They still carry the weight, push and pull of driving and braking, and position the axle of course.
Denso as I know it, is a product to protect process piping from corrosion; for example we would wrap a welded joint where the steel is bare with Denso then the vinyl overwrap. it is a grease-impregnated woven cloth which is fairly strong. the vinyl protects the outer surface from damage due to exposure or incidental contact.
One can envision cleaning, then greasing the spring thoroughly, then wrapping fairly tightly with Denso, therby holding the grease and excluding most water and dirt; then an overwrap with vinyl to complete the protection. As it is all flexible it should not interfere with the operation of the spring. Necessary or not, I am not certain, but greasing and outer protection seems to have been common back in the era of these Cars.
I noticed the leaf springs on the rear of my pickup have plastic spacers between the leaves, I suppose for the same functions: no squeak and lubrication of a sort. The chassis on display at Kerrville had fitted gaiters installed.
This may be a “can of worms”” topic similar to the subject of engine coolant on the Rolls-Royce forum!”
Thanks, Karl; I will see you there so save a set for me.
I am sending my shocks for rebuild this winter so this will work out perfectly!
I did a rough check by measuring from the same rib on each front tire with a steel tape. It is so far off that precision wasn’t necessary to find the issue, but I do want it right.
I haven’t looked at the rod ends or adjustment mechanism provided; will it be obvious to a shop how to make the adjustment? I figure anything I do with reasonable accuracy is an improvement.
Dave, I will be there, put me down for a slot your choice.
I agree with Bill Lyons: works great for me as well.
We use ethylene glycol in large engine cooling systems which are unpressurized with complete success. Foaming can be caused by faults in the water pump as David Stevens stated earlier. Someone suggested it can be caused by leaking packing which allows the pump to suck in and entrain air. One also has to consider the possibilities of head gasket leaks, cracks or porosity in block or head; of course these faults usually manifest in other ways as well.
I have a technical report from a major engine manufacturer which states the following:
“Soft waters (like distilled, ion exchanged, reverse osmosis and rain water)with a total hardness close to 0 °dH [German degrees hardness] have the ability to dissolve oxygen and carbon dioxide from the air, which quite rapidly lowers the pH levels and increases the corrosive effect of these waters.”
This document also warns against the corrosivity of chlorides in water/ coolant.
personally I would consider using one of the coolants made for aluminum engines, such as Mercedes-Benz coolant (which is the same as Zerex G-5 if I recall correctly)with reasonably soft tap water or else purchase it premixed to the desired concentration (as we purchase our coolants). As my car is all iron, I use the old-fashioned green stuff.
Remember glycol lowers the cooling ability of plain water while decreasing the freeze temperature, so use the concentration which will give adequate freeze protection and no more. Most places do not require 50% glycol for adequate freeze protection.
I offer this with the usual caveats, and only hope it can help someone.
Kathy and I had a blast at our first Gathering, and her first Pierce-Arrow event. Thanks to all who planned, worked, and participated!We can’t wait to do it again!
Too much or the wrong kind of water pump grease can clog the radiator. A radiator can be otherwise internally partially clogged or lose some of its capacity through deterioration. I have even heard of engine blocks which still have some core sand in the coolant passages when rebuilders go into them: you know it probably gave mysterious trouble when new that was never solved. Water pumps can have impellers which are corroded partially or completely away, or which are slipping on the shaft, depending on how it is made.
We use citric acid to flush cooling systems and oil piping at work; most of the commercial flushes at the parts store also seem to be citric acid now.
I drove the 1927 Series 80 I bought from Ev Young 20 miles in 95 degree weather in July and it did not get hot at all. Not to say that it won’t ever but I considered that a pretty good test.
Engine torque is a function of bore and other mechanical attributes, and of firing pressure. As already pointed out by James it can be calculated from the rated HP and RPM, but that is not necessarily the peak torque.
HP = (torque (ft-lbs) X RPM)/5252
I think James’s estimate is reasonable; engine on a dyno tells the tale. perhaps some original test data could be found in an old SAE or ASME technical paper. Engineers frequently wrote papers on new engine designs, back in the day, and included all these sweet details.
If anyone has the long oval pads and needs the short oval pads, I have a brand-new pair I will swap and paybyhe shipping or we can swap at Gilmore next weekend.
I have shopped Rock Auto and always had a satisfactory experience.
With that said, the pedal pads are $$$.
Thanks for the information!
Too early for Phillips screws.
