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I noticed the leaf springs on the rear of my pickup have plastic spacers between the leaves, I suppose for the same functions: no squeak and lubrication of a sort. The chassis on display at Kerrville had fitted gaiters installed.

This may be a “can of worms”” topic similar to the subject of engine coolant on the Rolls-Royce forum!”

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Thanks, Karl; I will see you there so save a set for me.

I am sending my shocks for rebuild this winter so this will work out perfectly!

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I did a rough check by measuring from the same rib on each front tire with a steel tape. It is so far off that precision wasn’t necessary to find the issue, but I do want it right.

I haven’t looked at the rod ends or adjustment mechanism provided; will it be obvious to a shop how to make the adjustment? I figure anything I do with reasonable accuracy is an improvement.

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Dave, I will be there, put me down for a slot your choice.

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I agree with Bill Lyons: works great for me as well.

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We use ethylene glycol in large engine cooling systems which are unpressurized with complete success. Foaming can be caused by faults in the water pump as David Stevens stated earlier. Someone suggested it can be caused by leaking packing which allows the pump to suck in and entrain air. One also has to consider the possibilities of head gasket leaks, cracks or porosity in block or head; of course these faults usually manifest in other ways as well.

I have a technical report from a major engine manufacturer which states the following:

“Soft waters (like distilled, ion exchanged, reverse osmosis and rain water)with a total hardness close to 0 °dH [German degrees hardness] have the ability to dissolve oxygen and carbon dioxide from the air, which quite rapidly lowers the pH levels and increases the corrosive effect of these waters.”

This document also warns against the corrosivity of chlorides in water/ coolant.

personally I would consider using one of the coolants made for aluminum engines, such as Mercedes-Benz coolant (which is the same as Zerex G-5 if I recall correctly)with reasonably soft tap water or else purchase it premixed to the desired concentration (as we purchase our coolants). As my car is all iron, I use the old-fashioned green stuff.

Remember glycol lowers the cooling ability of plain water while decreasing the freeze temperature, so use the concentration which will give adequate freeze protection and no more. Most places do not require 50% glycol for adequate freeze protection.

I offer this with the usual caveats, and only hope it can help someone.

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Kathy and I had a blast at our first Gathering, and her first Pierce-Arrow event. Thanks to all who planned, worked, and participated!We can’t wait to do it again!

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Too much or the wrong kind of water pump grease can clog the radiator. A radiator can be otherwise internally partially clogged or lose some of its capacity through deterioration. I have even heard of engine blocks which still have some core sand in the coolant passages when rebuilders go into them: you know it probably gave mysterious trouble when new that was never solved. Water pumps can have impellers which are corroded partially or completely away, or which are slipping on the shaft, depending on how it is made.

We use citric acid to flush cooling systems and oil piping at work; most of the commercial flushes at the parts store also seem to be citric acid now.

I drove the 1927 Series 80 I bought from Ev Young 20 miles in 95 degree weather in July and it did not get hot at all. Not to say that it won’t ever but I considered that a pretty good test.

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Engine torque is a function of bore and other mechanical attributes, and of firing pressure. As already pointed out by James it can be calculated from the rated HP and RPM, but that is not necessarily the peak torque.

HP = (torque (ft-lbs) X RPM)/5252

I think James’s estimate is reasonable; engine on a dyno tells the tale. perhaps some original test data could be found in an old SAE or ASME technical paper. Engineers frequently wrote papers on new engine designs, back in the day, and included all these sweet details.

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If anyone has the long oval pads and needs the short oval pads, I have a brand-new pair I will swap and paybyhe shipping or we can swap at Gilmore next weekend.

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I have shopped Rock Auto and always had a satisfactory experience.

With that said, the pedal pads are $$$.

Thanks for the information!

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Too early for Phillips screws.

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Is it a worm drive?

At any rate: I had a visit from a Mobil tech rep yesterday: they still make 600 weight: ask for Mobil 600 weight Special Cylinder Oil. This may or may not apply to this specific application, but we do use 600 weight here and there.

RR

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Peter, Very nice! And most helpful, too!

By the way: is that amber lamp below the bumper an added safety lamp, as a turn signal or running lamp? I am working on some for my Car.

Thanks for sharing!

RR

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I can see that my caps have a few shallow dings which I think Ibcan gently press out from the inside. A small amount of filing to remove sharp spots, a little polishing and repainting the letteringvandcarrows, and I will be good if not perfect.

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Good points, Peter. I do not have a correct cap wrench yet; however I am cutting one out of hardwood which should suffice for now.

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Thanks, Philip. I have an extra cap and after studying it I can see you are right. Cosmetic flaws tend to look worse than they really are, anyway.

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Thanks for that interesting link.

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These are not made from sheet; they appear to be cast aluminum but I am not a casting specialist.

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I think you are right: perhaps lost-wax casting? Considering the detail of the lettering it’s a quality piece of work (after all it’s a Pierce-Arrow !). The only machining seems to be maybe the internal threading and removing the sprue.

I think I can dress mine up and make a considerable improvement; I am just eaten up with investigative curiosity.

Any idea of the letter colors? Most I have seen which are painted are either all black, or black letters with a red arrow.

RR

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