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Glad I could help you with your mystery pieces.
I do not know if they were some sort of add on later that a dealer service center would have installed.
My car is very, very original, has been in the family for over 50 years and is pretty much a 2 owner car.
The main reason I remember the pieces is because I spent a lot of time staring at them wondering why they were there when I replaced all the outer axle seals and repacked the bearings about 10 years ago.
They looked so out of place that they stood out in my mind.
She looks like a great car.
I had the pleasure of seeing a Stanhope up close at the 2006 PAS meet.
They are very rare cars, enjoy putting around in your new speedster.
The plates I was registering to the car were brand new, never mounted 1926 plates in mint condition.
Didn’t matter with them.
I’ve printed out stuff from the DMV website and had clerks tell me the website is wrong.
And it’s not just the Calif DMV that is all about fees, it is every last aspect of Calif.
I have been wanting to put YOM plates on the Pierce Arrow but I don’t want to go through the same hassle again.
When we registered our YOM plates to our Rickenbacker it was an arduous process.
It took at least 5 trips to the DMV and a whole lot of hours to complete.
One clerk tells you that you need this particular paperwork filled out.
You do that and go back then you’re told that you need another form and a vehicle inspection. You get that done and then you’re told you filled out the wrong forms and you need to fill out more paperwork.
We finally ended up speaking to an upper level manager who made the final approvals.
The plates never had to be shipped to Sacramento and I would have refused to do so had they asked.
The ended up with the plates being registered to the car and having a ‘special plate’ fee levied every year when we renew the registration.
When I first saw the picture I immediately thought of these pieces just in front of the wheels in the rear wheel well.
Your pieces would be different since my car is a 143″ wheelbase limousine but they sure look similar.
“
Rear wheel wells?
Fills the gap by the body?
Our Pierce, in the family for over 50 years, never likes the choke to be on after the initial prime with almost full choke.
Carb will drip gas and it will be real hard to start if choke is left open for more than a few seconds on the first few engine rotations.
Our Rickenbacker is more like Bill’s Pierce where it needs to be started with full choke and as soon as it fires you go to about half choke and slowly remove the choke as it warms.
There are about 7 pre-war cars in the family and they all take a little bit different steps to get started.
I’ve often wondered how people with as many cars as Jay Leno or Ernie Follis has how they remember the start procedure for each one.
I’d imagine you’d have to write down notes on each one and keep them in the door flap for reference.
The procedure I use for my ’29 is as follows –
1. Move Spark Advance to full Retard position
2. Pull choke almost fully out
3. Move hand Throttle lever towards the open position just a little
4. Move ignition switch to the ‘On’ position
5. (this applies to mine) I turn on the electric pump to prime the carb with fuel
6. Crank engine for 2 to 3 seconds – you can hear a difference when their is fuel in the carb while being choked
7. Fully depress choke
8. Crank engine a few seconds and it fires, immediately move Spark Advance to full Advance
9. Keep running by adjusting hand Throttle or foot throttle
10. Car should now idle on its own and you can pull back hand throttle as car warms a little
Rich, have you obtained a copy of the ’29 owner’s manual?
It gives detailed instructions on how to start your 133.
Remember, the ’29 is completely different than the Series 80’s before them.
If you have the two-lite headlamps your bulbs are double filament bulbs so there is no resistor for high and low beam.
I will get your carb pics and send them to your personal email.
I’ve been busy, sorry for the delay.
Manufacturers like Chrysler had hydraulic brakes in the 20’s.
Did PMAC not use hydraulic brakes due to reliability issues or due to maintenance issues with early hydraulic systems?
Welcome to the PAS.
There are few people out there that know more than about the Pierce Series 80’s cars than Greg Long.
He’s a tremendous resource and an all around great guy.
I’ll take one tonight.
I have the original air cleaner but I normally run a cone filter for daily driving and just use the original when showing the car.
The best outcome would be more light on the road and less load on the electrical system.
I anxiously await your findings.
She looks lovely.
I am glad that she found a home in your possession.
I, too, can’t wait to see her all finished up.
I hope to one day see this car in person.
Great job on the restoration.
Link worked when copied and pasted.
Interesting stats.
Wonder id Ford was close with Edison, hence the use of DC power in his plants.
Or, you can always find some rubber mud flaps that are the same thickness and see if you can cut some pieces from that.
I know mud flaps worked great for the rubber portions under the radiator mounts when we removed the radiator.
The dash looks great.
I always liked the way the speedometer bezel matched the radiator shell on the ’29 dash.
I agree with the others in saying I wish I had a restored Pierce Arrow.
I don’t drive mine nearly as much as I’d like because the car is pretty much all 1929.
The motor has never been apart so I know it is only a matter of time before it needs to come out.
If I had a rebuilt engine in there I would drive it all the time.
