Great picture.
Did you nephew’s date choose that dress because the blue in the dress goes so well with the blue of the car?
And going to the prom in a Pierce guarantees them to have the classiest ride of the night.
Are you thinking of Restoration Supply Co.?
I’ve purchased stuff from them in the past, they’re in Escondido.
Thanks for the complete rundown, Ed.
I have a decent running, original UU-2 on the car now but was wanting to find another one with a good, solid body to transfer the parts from this over to.
That was the crux of my question about what all was different about the various models of carbs.
Guess I’ll have to keep an eye out for a ‘Pierce’ UU-2 since I know all of the old car bodies are on borrowed time.
So, even if the jets are wrong, couldn’t they be swapped out for larger jets or are the internal passages also under sized?
Amazing how well a long dormant Pierce motor will run.
Did you have to do any gasket work on the carbs or did they not leak even after sitting for so long?
Great photos.
I would love to see a complete writeup with the pictures included in a future service bulletin.
I had the Houdaille shocks done back in 2006 for my 1929 by a shop in Santa Ana Calif so I don’t know what oil they used but a tiny amount leaked out and it appeared to be clear.
I inquired not too long after about doing another set myself and was told that unless you’re going to make a habit of rebuilding them it’s not worth the effort to make all the necessary jigs for just one set of shocks.
I thought I read in the original manual that mineral oil was used originally by Pierce.
Welcome to the PAS.
Looks like a very nice addition to your collection.
Congratulations, Sam.
Your car is beautiful and must be even more stunning in person to win Best in Class.
Thanks for working out this deal.
The red-top in my Pierce is 8 years old and still going strong.
The one in my Rickenbacker was purchased at the same time but recently gave up the ghost so this comes at a good time for me.
Looks like I’ll soon have two new batteries in my cars.
Rock Auto stocks rubber mats in 36″ x 36″” and 36″” x 72″” sizes.
They have pieces with 4 ribs per inch 8 ribs per inch and 1/4 in wide ribs.
This may be another option for us.”
I was under the impression that the correct ’29 archer wore a helmet and was stretched out leaning forward whereas the ’30 archer was bare headed and is sitting much more upright.
Also, I thought the ’28 and ’29 archers are the same.
Is this correct?
The archer that was on my car when purchased by my grandfather in the early 60’s is the ’30 style bare headed archer. The car was produced in very late ’29 and it also has the ’30 style tail light assembly.
Years back my Dad acquired an original ’28-’29 style helmeted archer on a reproduction cap but I’ve always used the later style mascot.
You also may want to note if the instruments needed are white face or black face.
Very nice find.
The glass lenses are worth more than the current bid even if the rings are pretty beat.
Hopefully it goes to a PAS member that really needs this and not to someone that just wants to flip it.
In another thread I thought someone had mentioned that very large pictures will not upload. You may have to reduce them to under 2Mb.
Great news.
Good luck with phase 2 of your drum removal.
Good luck with your hub puller.
As the old saying goes, ‘There’s more than one way to skin a cat’.
Ed, your beautiful car that day outclassed any modern car on Worth Ave that day.
That car is stunning.
In relation to the original question about the single nuts securing the spring U bolts, no matter what you decide to do I would replace the lock washers at the very least.
I have seen many old lock washers just fall apart when the nut is removed thus the lock washer was providing no ‘locking’ ability at all.
My car is a late ’29 (Nov. ’29 build date) and the pan does not have the bump.