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Hi Bill,

The bypass valve (“oil relief valve”) has an internal spring and piston which opens if the OIL COOLER is clogged. (The oil flows first from the oil pump outlet under the water pump to the filter, then to the “T” where it goes to the cooler and the bypass valve simultaneously.)  I see no part number break in the 1933 parts book.  My ’33 sedan has the single outlet valve like Larry’s and is engine #235328. Here is a picture of the four types of relief valves known (courtesy of John Cislak).  Your two appear to be identical to each other (with slightly different fittings) and are the Seagraves 8-cyl type on the left (without the small oil gauge fitting shown in the pic.)  (1933 P-A 8-cyl oil gauge tube comes off at the back of the block, while the rest come off the valve body.)  If you want to be absolutely authentic, you need the one on the right.  Otherwise, just use the side connection on your two and plug the straight connection (or vice versa, whichever lines up or appeals visually).  If you block off the oil cooler like some of us, you can remove the spring and piston in the valve so the oil flows thru the valve a little quicker on startup.

 

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PS: John Cislak makes the correct lines.

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Hi Bill,

Attached is a photo of the correct full-flow oil circuit with horizontal filter on an original 836 (Larry Smothers’).

Bob

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Hi Ronald,

Pierce 17″ wheels have 5 lugs.

Happy New Year,

Bob

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Tony-

Your comments reminded me that when I was in high school, I knew Jordy Carlton – he and I lived in Piedmont, CA (he in a gorgeous tudor mansion).  I believe his favorite car was a Daniels, and I think he tried to talk me out of buying my ’22 Buick in favor of a more desirable car.

Happy New Year (to All)

Bob

PS: Which movie was deNiro & a Pierce in?

 

 

 

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Hi Bill,

I have a few rear plugs (the ones with 8 spanner holes – picture below of one and spanner I made), but don’t know how many I need for all my projects.  You are welcome to one, including the locking plate.  I can actually supply 4 locking plates (enough for all 4 rear plugs).  The rear plugs are 1-11/16  –  20, and the front plugs (serrated edge) are 1-1/2 – 20 threads.

I don’t have any extra front plugs.  I do have several “dogbones” that the bearing cups go in if you need those.

I am in need of a 1933 lighting switch at the bottom of the steering column, art deco (chrome stripes) glovebox door panels, and a salon right side taillight lens bezel for my 1242.

If we can’t work a trade, you can have the rear plug and 4 lock plates for $50 ppd.

Best regards,

Bob

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Bill & Jim,

The ’33 Part numbers are different (don’t know why): assy wiith brakes: 703074 (836), 703076 (1236), and 703842 (1242/1247).

“Center axle” is 703227  (836 & 1236) and 703821 (1242 & 1247).

Cheers,

Bob

 

 

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I understand that Classic & Exotic is being taken over by a former employee (Tim), and is now called Straight Eight.

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Bill,

The assembly fits 1932 all, and 1933 model 1242 & 1247. Just the emblem fits 1933 836 & 1236, and 1934-5 all except 836A.

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No. The generator mounting strap, however, is an example of P-A’s schizoid marketing and part differences. The parts book says 836 straps were galvanized [!], the 1236 cadmium plated, and the 1242 & 1247 nickel plated. However, on Larry Smothers’ original 836 the strap is painted black (my preference, too). Chrome was never used by the factory under the hood (except on the steering column).

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I believe the only difference may be the position of the nameplate.

I’ll see if can get a picture of mine.

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I think a nice satin black would suffice.

(OK, let’s hear from the judges!)

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Bill,

What’s wierd is that on originals there is no plating under the paint (8 cyl) or silk-screened woodgrain (12-cyl) between the raised chrome art deco lines, and no plating on the back. That indicates to me that it was first etched (lines covered with photo-resist), then painted/silkscreened, then photo-resist removed, and brush plated on the front.

I would not buff it.

My 2c.

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Restoration Supply sells all sizes.

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Ernie was a great friend and a generous host for Pierce events. We will all miss him and his sense of humor.

Our sincere sympathy to Jim and family.

Bob & Nancy

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When cleaning a Pierce 8 block, I used various lengths & diameters of steel cable inserted in a drill chuck (low rpm), to get into the narrow passages round the valves, etc. Got a tuna can’s worth of rust out. Then filled block with phosphoric acid (installed a temporary water jacket plate), drained & let dry, went back with the drill/cable and got another tuna can’s worth of flakes out.

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Woah – !

Rumble seat looks like they copied a 1930 two-piece, and eliminated or covered luggage tray/top well benind seats, lack of power brake pedal & suspicious lines on the differential indicates a conversion to hydraulic brakes, trunk rack & hardware are home-brew, no R/S step plates, no running board chrome strips, door jamb closure geometry is wrong, don’t see any wood trim on top of doors (just home-brew rubber flaps), don’t see ANY provision for top mechanism, 35’s did not have fake vent windows, wrong fan, wrong head nuts, wrong oil filter & lines, wrong side-mount cover, etc.

At least is has one P-A gauge!

The chassis number is wrong, also – should be seven digits starting with “20”” with “”9″” in the fourth digit indicating assembly in Canada.

A “”start-over”” IMHO. Stay away unless price drops to 1/10 of asking.

Bob”

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Woah – !

Rumble seat looks like they copied a 1930 two-piece, and eliminated or covered luggage tray/top well benind seats, lack of power brake pedal & suspicious lines on the differential indicates a conversion to hydraulic brakes, trunk rack & hardware are home-brew, no R/S step plates, no running board chrome strips, door jamb closure geometry is wrong, don’t see any wood trim on top of doors (just home-brew rubber flaps), don’t see ANY provision for top mechanism, 35’s did not have fake vent windows, wrong fan, wrong head nuts, wrong oil filter & lines, wrong side-mount cover, etc.

At least is has one P-A gauge!

The chassis number is wrong, also – should be seven digits starting with “20”” with “”9″” in the fourth digit indicating assembly in Canada.

A “”start-over”” IMHO. Stay away unless price drops to 1/10 of asking.

Bob”

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Immediate observations: 1935 hood, incorrect headlight lenses, no runningboard chrome, light & throttle levers gone, extra holes in instr. panel, can’t tell much more about upholstery, etc. from pics. Could be a nice car with some repair/upgrades.

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1931 is updraft carb setup, 1934 is downdraft.

Have seen it done, but unauthentic…

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