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Any idea whether this 1934 conv sedan still exists?

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Hi Jim,

Member Eric Rosenau (at his restoration shop in southern Calif.) welded and machined my original rods for my 1933 Eight over 30 years ago. I can’t remember what inserts we used (Oldsmobile?), but he could tell you. Been fine ever since. Give him a call.

Bob

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Ed,

A good deal on a “barn find” was brought to me. Couldn’t pass it up. 1922/23 KLDH 4-Pass Sport Touring. Four valve per cylinder, 360 cu in four cylinder.

Bob

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Hi Dave,

Try Dave Murray in WA.

Cheers,

Bob

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Hi Rich,

My National Service Manual lists 1932-1936 P-A clocks as using a 5 amp fuse.

Cheers,

Bob Jacobsen

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Mika,

Definitely 4 guys to lift the hood, certainly when the car has nice paint on it! Here’s a little trick, though – you can remove the side panel hinge rods, and then the side panels one at a time, to get rid of more than half of the weight, then two guys can do the top part easier. (You can even slide the two top panels apart.)

The rods can be knocked slightly forward with a drift punch on the rear end, then the forward end chucked in an electric drill, and spun while pulling out. A little WD-40 helps.

Cheers,

Bob Jacobsen

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Alan,

I do not know about the ’36-’38 chassis, but the 1934-5 12 chassis is the same as an 8 except for: The front springs have one more (12) leaf on the twelve, and the rear engine mount brackets are riveted in the forward holes for the twelve, and the aft holes for the longer eight-cyl engine.

Bob

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Tony-

My Victor catalog shows 954 to be 1936-38 Pierce.

Some scribbles in it put Fitz 911 next to 1929-35 Pierce.

Happy Holidays,

Bob

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Hi Scott,

I assume you’re speaking of the small twelve (Model 1236, 429 cu in) chassis. (The big (462 cu in Model 1242 and 1247) 1933 twelves did not have worm gears, but torque arm hypoids, with ratios of 4.58:1 and 4.82:1, depending on wheelbase and body style.)

The worm gear ratio on my 1933 839 7-pass sedan was 4.29:1, although I have replaced it (factory-approved process, described in an original P-A Company service bulletin) with a 1934 hypoid assembly. I have the Timken prints for this worm gear and wheel set. They were supplied in ratios from 2.78:1 (believe it or not!) to 4.57:1 for other cars. In addition to the 4.29:1, the 1236 may have used a 4.43:1, don’t know.

Cheers,

Bob

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Hi Scott,

Having driven my ’33 and ’34 in all conditions I can attest to the fact that these are the best power brakes on an old car. The system can only fail suddenly in the same way any mechanical braking system could fail, that is, if a clevis pin fails or a cotter pin drops out, or a cable fails. All very unlikely.

The system is very different from a vacuum “power assist” system – it is a FULL power system. The force for the brakes that pulls the cables on is derived from a clutch that is driven by the drive shaft. All the pedal does is “modulate” or control how hard the clutch is engaged – no power comes from your foot. The clutch wears very slowly, and will give plenty of warning before it needs to be relined. If for any reason the system should fail, the handbrake still works (unless the cables fail). The whole thing was explained in a brouchure “A New Way to Stop a Motor Car”, which was reproduced in Arrow 66-2. The Stewart-Warner explanatory brochure was published in PAS Service Bulletin 1974-1.

Cheers,

Bob Jacobsen

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Doug,

Coker lists the parts on page 40 of their catalog.

The 2.5″ covers are E-90500, the reducer nuts are F-90501.

(The stem numbers (with small diameter threaded top and larger diameter threaded bottom) are not shown.)

Another option is “faux” covers for rubber stems – their number 90902.

I have not tried them.

Cheers,

Bob

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Doug,

I agree with all said so far, but I’m gonna throw a monkey wrench in, just to be nit-picky. If you want a 100-point show car (as opposed to a driver) especially at a non-Pierce event (there is nothing mentioned about valve stems in the PAS judging manual, so they are up to judge’s discretion), you may want metal threaded valve stems, with tall nickel plated dust covers, as shown in most Pierce factory photos (’35 Silver Arrow attached – covers barely visible). I have had them on my ’33 for many years, and they can be applied to any tube, although their use is just one more thing that has to be done correctly to be reliable. I believe Coker has the correct style. My two cents. Your ’33 looks gorgeous.

Bob

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Joe,

One intent was to use the experience of others to help confirm or contradict my results with 2 gearsets. The other was to establish the probability of “on the shelf” sets having a problem.

I don’t think we are quite at the point of predicting whether the “on the shelf” sets have a problem, but close to it. I have sent back two sets of Phil Bray’s 3.65 ratio, the first of which wore out in 2000 miles, and the second (which I had on the shelf for another car) would not set up properly (ratcheting noise). I have not had an analysis from Phil yet.

Many factors can bear on the issue – setup, lubrication, bearings, etc.

Bob

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Hi Scott,

I love the Columbia overdive (OEM 2-speed rear end) in my 1947 Ford. I actually got 20 mpg on one trip, cruising at 60. That said, I would like to hear from any PAS members who have installed overdrives on their 1933-1935 Pierces (with Stewart-Warner power brakes).

Bob Jacobsen

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Hi Roger,

The 1936 eight came equipped with the same type of full flow filter as ’33 thru ’38. There are big (1/2″) external pipes between the crankcase, oil cooler, and external pressure regulator. It is absolutely essential that if you install a filter (as the factory did) between the lower crankcase pump output (nearest the dipstick), that you use a full-flow filter and 1/2″ lines. ALL the oil must go through it. The filter was a Purolator L-4 (not available anymore). Several replacements were available over the years, but probably not anymore (Purolator P-48-06, Fram F-30-P2 and FH-6-PL 001, and Baldwin P-80). I believe member Bob Sands has a kit available that looks like an L-4, but is split and screws apart to accept a modern full flow filter.

If you do not care about original looks, you can use a Fram HP-1 screw-on with bracket kit, and mount the bracket on two water jacket studs (same mounting centers) and use hydraulic hose (1/2″ I.D.) for connections.

If you do not have an oil cooler, just run one line from the tee at the filter output to the upper crankcase hole (to rear of water pump), and one to the external pressure regulator (screwed in the hole ahead of the water pump near the generator).

This subject has been discussed thoroughly in past service bulletins – please obtain an index so you can use them to best advantage.

Best of luck,

Bob Jacobsen

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I have used Intercity Lines, whose price was slightly less than FedEx, and was quite satisfied as to safety and handling. It was during the busy fall season, though, and I had to wait a few weeks for them to pick up the car.

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Vincent,

What a story! You are an inspiration to those of us who get bogged down with mere engine rebuilds or fender repairs!

Regarding hearse serial numbers, I recently obtained some parts that were auctioned from a parted out 836A P-A hearse. It’s frame number was 6033 (don’t remember if it was a Henney).

Best of luck on your project.

Bob Jacobsen

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Hello Mika,

Adding to Chris Diekman’s advice on the cooling system, some of us put a temporary “filter” at the top end of the upper radiator hose before starting the engine the first time. You can cut about 8 inches of the foot of nylon pantyhose or similar material, insert the toe into the radiator inlet, leaving about an inch showing, which you wrap over the pipe before putting the hose back on. There are permanent filters available to install in the hose itself (cut into 2 sections and clamp the filter in) if you keep getting stuff out.

Also, I would think twice about removing the side plate unless you want to risk breaking off rusted attaching bolts and spending hours drilling them out. I tore down my ’33 and broke 6 bolts, and made a fixture to accurately drill the remains out. Still had to install 2 heli-coils for new threads in 2 holes. Then installed stainless steel bolts.

However, it is VERY important that the side plate (water jacket)have the internal baffle intact and not rusted out. The baffle is an internal plate that runs the entire length of the water jacket that forms a cavity that holds the water and shoots it through nine vertical slots through the spaces between the cylinders, and directs it to the valve seat areas, the hottest points in the engine. You can remove the oil cooler and look in the hole to see if at least the baffle is intact in that area. If not, get a new one or all the cool water will go to cylinder #4!

Also, if you ever have to rebuild the engine, my advice is not to install valve seats if not absolutely necessary for other reasons (cracks, etc.) Mine started popping out after 25 years. Big pain.

Good luck on your project!

Bob Jacobsen (’33 sedan, ’34 convertible)

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Steve,

Why am I at the computer on Fri. nite and not at the local pub?

Anyway, the Conn. dealers listed in a 1918 sales catalog are:

S.A. Miner, 294 Pearl St., Hartford, and

The Geo. B. Wuestefeld Co., 192 York St., New Haven.

Go see what’s in the attics…

Cheers,

Bob Jacobsen

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The serial plates (as well as Delco and Owen-Dyneto generator nameplates, Purolator oil filter decals, Pines (Sylphon) thermostat nameplate, and P-A metal service tag) are made by the Southern California Region of the Classic Car Club of America. They are very reasonable and great quality. Contact Larry Symons, 818-704-9434 (Fax 818-887-1602) or email [email protected] for an illustrated list or orders.

Bob Jacobsen

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