[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Ron,

The crank moves the bench seat forward and backward.

Happy Holidays,

Bob

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Michael,

You need different brackets that mount the rack to the car.  The brackets you now have are for 134″ WB Model B Roadster and Touring, and Model A 7-Passenger Sedan (bottom of pic).  And you are missing the “S” landau type braces (longer version-be careful -there are many different sizes out there). You need the brackets shown in top of pic. Picture from 1930 Parts Book, below.  (You may be able to trade with someone who needs your brackets (rarer)).

Best of luck,

Bob

 

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Thanks to Bob Dluhy, Craig Lovrich and Tony Zappone for a great Meet.  I got to drive 2 Pierces, renew many friendships, and meet some great new members.

Bob Jacobsen (California)

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Kirby,

Just going over some old forum posts – saw your firewall picture and question.  The picture is of the INNER firewall, part of the cowl, which was punched for both the eight (one coil) and the twelve (two coils).  The eight OUTER firewall has the coil hole (and 3 mounting screw holes) near the passenger side.  See attached picture (before paint) oh well, I’ll email it. The space between the firewalls was filled with kapok insulation.  The outer firewall (black, with holes for throttle levers, etc) was fastened with screws (facing to the top and side surfaces of the indented cowl) and fender welt. A firewall insulator was attached on the cabin side of the inner firewall (you can buy a nice reproduction from Quiet Ride) with screws and nuts.  However, if one ever has to change the insulator (as I did), the nuts are inaccessible once the outer firewall is installed.  So I installed rivnuts (captive nuts) on the inner firewall.

Bob

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Trolling for suckers…

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Clean Sweep did a great job of supplying and rebuilding wiper motors for my ’33 a few years ago.  You might consult a Trico manual for correct part numbers.

Bob

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Jim,

I can’t give you exact details right now (away from my car), but I think I bought ½” ½ oval SS strips for bottom trim (straight cut) and ¼” ½ round top strips for between ridges (most straight cut, 3 tapered one end) from Max Merritt Packard.  There are also bent polished or plated aluminum end moldings (between running boards and welting at front and rear fender joints (horizontal) running up to body lower edge) that are made from “J” extrusions.  Cislak may have some extrusion stock.  There is some difference of opinion as to how many ¼”strips there are, but the parts book says 9 each side, 6 of which are full length, and one each of 12.5″, 29″ and 53.188″ (which seems wrong, since the entire running board is around 53″).  They definitely lay in every other valley on the covers.  I’ll send you three pictures of restored ’34’s –  one with 10, one with 9 and one with 8 top strips.

Bob

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

One more little thing:

I realize most of us by now have come to recognize the little box with 3 lines in it as the “menu” to click on to get to where you want, but it is not intuitive to infrequent users.

Why not just have a box that says “Menu”?

Happy New Year

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi All,

My main issues with the new website are in the Forum area: (1) It is too sterile, and (2) The list of recent topics is cluttered with “Days, Voices, Replies”, and not just a chronological list of topics:

(1) The window is all white with categories and topics typeset in boring fonts.  There is no indication that we are on an “old car” page or an income tax website.  Some color pictures or background would make it more appealing.

(2) The list of recent topics could be just a list of subjects in large type, without the competing “Days, Voices, Replies”  grabbing your attention.  Perhaps a simple date in smaller type after the Topic would suffice.  My point is that what you first read should not be the technical details of the message. The spacing of the “Days, Voices, Replies”, category, and the topics is equal, making it hard at first glance to scan for topics.  There should be a greater spacing between topics than between topics and technical details.  The red color for topics is a good start, but the font of the topic itself should be the larger of all associated detail fonts.   Also, the old website allowed scrolling back to all previous topics greater than a week ago without having to think “Gee, is what I’m looking for in “General”, or “Body” or “What did I do…”

My 2 cents. Happy Holidays!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Chris,

Don’t forget to install a correct full flow oil filter if you’re gonna drive it.

Bob

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Chuck and Kirby,

The Parts Book says all ’34 and ’35 cars had the “Hood Stop Assembly”, including 836A.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Kirby,

Congrats on your find!  I have the exact same model and perhaps we can trade stories on “how-to’s” etc.

For instance, I believe Seagraves always had dual spark heads, so any single spark would be Pierce (correct me if I’m wrong), and the desirable Pierce head with the small spark plug holes would be a #5 ( the # stamped on the face of the water outlet flange), since it was for the 836A 366 cu in engine, and has a smaller combustion chamber than the stock 840A 385 cu in, and thus a slightly higher compression ratio.

I will send you an email with other subjects.

Cheers,

Bob Jacobsen

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Thanks, Allen!  Nice to see you and Nancy!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Doug and others,

1.  I have a battery cutout switch on the floor under the driver’s seat in my ’34 convertible coupe  (ok because it’s easy to lift the small seat); and on the short vertical riser board under the front of the front seat in my ’33 convertible sedan, nearly out of sight because the board is recessed.

2. Regarding batteries -The most important spec to me is Ampere-Hours (A-H).  It is directly related to the size of the battery, and how LONG it will crank. (Almost any battery will start a car several times.)  Example: a 50 A-H battery will supply 200 amps (typical starting current) for 15 minutes, 50 amps for one hour, or 1 amp for 50 hours.  The more modern spec of “Reserve Capacity” (RC) is related to A-H by specifying the number of minutes a battery will last when supplying 25 amps.  So a 50 A-H battery will have a RC of about 2 hours, or 120 minutes.

Single Optimas have a rating of 50 A-H, and a RC of 100 minutes (=42 A-H, due to different levels of discharge involved in the specs).

Double Optimas thus have a 100 A-H and 200 minute RC rating.

I use an Interstate group 4xhd commercial battery (about $140) in my V12, which has an RC rating of 295 minutes.

So, I can crank the engine about 3 times as long as a single Optima, and about 50% longer than a double Optima.   If my generator stops charging while I’m driving on a mountain road at night (25-30 amps draw including brake lights) I have almost 5 hours, vs. 3.3 with double Optimas, or 1.6 hours with a single Optima.  Of course, I have to check water level every 6 months. (I do use single Optima batteries on other cars  because of their low current draw.)

The 4xhd A-H rating is not listed, but is estimated to be 150 A-H.  The 1933 P-A salesmen’s “Green Book” lists the battery for the 1933 V12 as “…Willard 160-165 ampere-hour battery”.

Cheers.

 

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

California could use some rain.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Bill,

The bypass valve (“oil relief valve”) has an internal spring and piston which opens if the OIL COOLER is clogged. (The oil flows first from the oil pump outlet under the water pump to the filter, then to the “T” where it goes to the cooler and the bypass valve simultaneously.)  I see no part number break in the 1933 parts book.  My ’33 sedan has the single outlet valve like Larry’s and is engine #235328. Here is a picture of the four types of relief valves known (courtesy of John Cislak).  Your two appear to be identical to each other (with slightly different fittings) and are the Seagraves 8-cyl type on the left (without the small oil gauge fitting shown in the pic.)  (1933 P-A 8-cyl oil gauge tube comes off at the back of the block, while the rest come off the valve body.)  If you want to be absolutely authentic, you need the one on the right.  Otherwise, just use the side connection on your two and plug the straight connection (or vice versa, whichever lines up or appeals visually).  If you block off the oil cooler like some of us, you can remove the spring and piston in the valve so the oil flows thru the valve a little quicker on startup.

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

PS: John Cislak makes the correct lines.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Bill,

Attached is a photo of the correct full-flow oil circuit with horizontal filter on an original 836 (Larry Smothers’).

Bob

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Ronald,

Pierce 17″ wheels have 5 lugs.

Happy New Year,

Bob

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Tony-

Your comments reminded me that when I was in high school, I knew Jordy Carlton – he and I lived in Piedmont, CA (he in a gorgeous tudor mansion).  I believe his favorite car was a Daniels, and I think he tried to talk me out of buying my ’22 Buick in favor of a more desirable car.

Happy New Year (to All)

Bob

PS: Which movie was deNiro & a Pierce in?

 

 

 

[Author]

Posts