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Hi Bill,

I have a few rear plugs (the ones with 8 spanner holes – picture below of one and spanner I made), but don’t know how many I need for all my projects.  You are welcome to one, including the locking plate.  I can actually supply 4 locking plates (enough for all 4 rear plugs).  The rear plugs are 1-11/16  –  20, and the front plugs (serrated edge) are 1-1/2 – 20 threads.

I don’t have any extra front plugs.  I do have several “dogbones” that the bearing cups go in if you need those.

I am in need of a 1933 lighting switch at the bottom of the steering column, art deco (chrome stripes) glovebox door panels, and a salon right side taillight lens bezel for my 1242.

If we can’t work a trade, you can have the rear plug and 4 lock plates for $50 ppd.

Best regards,

Bob

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Bill & Jim,

The ’33 Part numbers are different (don’t know why): assy wiith brakes: 703074 (836), 703076 (1236), and 703842 (1242/1247).

“Center axle” is 703227  (836 & 1236) and 703821 (1242 & 1247).

Cheers,

Bob

 

 

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I understand that Classic & Exotic is being taken over by a former employee (Tim), and is now called Straight Eight.

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Bill,

The assembly fits 1932 all, and 1933 model 1242 & 1247. Just the emblem fits 1933 836 & 1236, and 1934-5 all except 836A.

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No. The generator mounting strap, however, is an example of P-A’s schizoid marketing and part differences. The parts book says 836 straps were galvanized [!], the 1236 cadmium plated, and the 1242 & 1247 nickel plated. However, on Larry Smothers’ original 836 the strap is painted black (my preference, too). Chrome was never used by the factory under the hood (except on the steering column).

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I believe the only difference may be the position of the nameplate.

I’ll see if can get a picture of mine.

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I think a nice satin black would suffice.

(OK, let’s hear from the judges!)

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Bill,

What’s wierd is that on originals there is no plating under the paint (8 cyl) or silk-screened woodgrain (12-cyl) between the raised chrome art deco lines, and no plating on the back. That indicates to me that it was first etched (lines covered with photo-resist), then painted/silkscreened, then photo-resist removed, and brush plated on the front.

I would not buff it.

My 2c.

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Restoration Supply sells all sizes.

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Ernie was a great friend and a generous host for Pierce events. We will all miss him and his sense of humor.

Our sincere sympathy to Jim and family.

Bob & Nancy

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When cleaning a Pierce 8 block, I used various lengths & diameters of steel cable inserted in a drill chuck (low rpm), to get into the narrow passages round the valves, etc. Got a tuna can’s worth of rust out. Then filled block with phosphoric acid (installed a temporary water jacket plate), drained & let dry, went back with the drill/cable and got another tuna can’s worth of flakes out.

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Woah – !

Rumble seat looks like they copied a 1930 two-piece, and eliminated or covered luggage tray/top well benind seats, lack of power brake pedal & suspicious lines on the differential indicates a conversion to hydraulic brakes, trunk rack & hardware are home-brew, no R/S step plates, no running board chrome strips, door jamb closure geometry is wrong, don’t see any wood trim on top of doors (just home-brew rubber flaps), don’t see ANY provision for top mechanism, 35’s did not have fake vent windows, wrong fan, wrong head nuts, wrong oil filter & lines, wrong side-mount cover, etc.

At least is has one P-A gauge!

The chassis number is wrong, also – should be seven digits starting with “20”” with “”9″” in the fourth digit indicating assembly in Canada.

A “”start-over”” IMHO. Stay away unless price drops to 1/10 of asking.

Bob”

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Woah – !

Rumble seat looks like they copied a 1930 two-piece, and eliminated or covered luggage tray/top well benind seats, lack of power brake pedal & suspicious lines on the differential indicates a conversion to hydraulic brakes, trunk rack & hardware are home-brew, no R/S step plates, no running board chrome strips, door jamb closure geometry is wrong, don’t see any wood trim on top of doors (just home-brew rubber flaps), don’t see ANY provision for top mechanism, 35’s did not have fake vent windows, wrong fan, wrong head nuts, wrong oil filter & lines, wrong side-mount cover, etc.

At least is has one P-A gauge!

The chassis number is wrong, also – should be seven digits starting with “20”” with “”9″” in the fourth digit indicating assembly in Canada.

A “”start-over”” IMHO. Stay away unless price drops to 1/10 of asking.

Bob”

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Immediate observations: 1935 hood, incorrect headlight lenses, no runningboard chrome, light & throttle levers gone, extra holes in instr. panel, can’t tell much more about upholstery, etc. from pics. Could be a nice car with some repair/upgrades.

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1931 is updraft carb setup, 1934 is downdraft.

Have seen it done, but unauthentic…

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I guess that’s a 2-horsepower Pierce…

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Hi Tony,

Correct me if I’m wrong, but I remember the Board approving Buellton, CA for 2021.

Do you mean 2022?

Cheers

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Thanks, Greg & Ken & helpers for all your creative work! The Angola invasion and the personalized postcards at the banquet tables particularly stand out. Nancy and I had a great time driving the ’32!

Bob

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Rick,

Yeah, right, and there are several Pierce-Arrow automobiles on eBay for $25 , too!

(The Green Book “Pierce-Arrow Sales Facts” for 1933 is one of the most scarce pieces of Pierce literature existing. There is one for every year of Pierce in that era, detailing all specs, body dimensions, paint & upholstery colors & patterns, prices, all body styles, and sales strategies. It is 175 pages, 4.5″ x 7″ format. I have a 1933, and a copy of a 1930. In the 1933 one, it refers to the “1933 Green Book Custom Car Supplement”, which apparently gives even further details on the custom bodied Pierces for that year, and which I would like to see, copy or buy. I have never even seen one.)

Cheers

Bob

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Sounds like a non-functioning cut-out. The battery voltage should rise to around 7 if the cutout is working.

50 volts at the generator means there is no load connection to the battery, and you could damage the generator (and on cars with a Startix, blow the upper solenoid on the Startix – learned the hard way, then put a fuse in the wire to the Startix “gen”” terminal.)”

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