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Paul,
Bent’s son Joergen now has the car.With what they had and a frame I found for them in Colorado They were able to make it back into a car.Bent and Joergen came to New Mexico then went up to get the frame and and arrange shipment to Denmark.They also got a nice taste of southwest cuisine at Sadies here in Albuquerque.Joergen and a friend came through Albuuerque on motorcycles in 2015.We had dinner at Duran’s and they showed me photos of the car and it is running.They fitted a reproduction C-4 body.We think it is the Kerensky car.
Tony,
I know the photo as it has been in several antique car books.Alexander Kerensky had a C-3 Pierce Arrow.There is a photo of him standing in the tonneau at the front.It is in a book on the war leading up to the Russian Revolution.He drove out of Russia in this Pierce Arrow under pursuit.There is a possibility that the car in Europe today may be his car.He went to France first but the car ended up in Norway and was cut down in the 1920’s to make a tractor.It has since been made back into a car.In Kerensky’s case,he went from France to New York City where he taught at Columbia University until he passed away in 1970.As for the Packards Trotsky had a Packard Six.In 1932 Intourist purchased a group of Lincoln V8 Phaetons for tourist purposes.The Russian government at this time used Packards with later Molotov having a 1937 Packard.The story of Ford in Russia is very interesting.
This is one of the 290 Pierce Arrow C-3 automobiles that were shipped to Russia in latter 1915 along with a huge truck order.The serial number range of these vehicles were in a PAS “Arrow”” of about 20 years ago.One of the cars in this serial number range does survive in Europe today.Contact some years back with a Russian collector indicates none of these cars survive in Russia today.A large number of 1914-1915 Packard Sixes also went to Russia.”
Speaking of Series 80 Runabouts: Does anybody know of one of the Series 80 Runabout that used to be in Taos,New Mexico about 1961 then went to Colorado?
It needed a restoration but was solid.I believe it was purchased new by Waite Phillips of the Phillips Petroleum family and I do have the serial number of his car.His car though does not show up in PAS roster.I remember looking at this car when I was just a kid.It was painted green and sitting on a roadside display.
According to my records all 1929 133-143 and all 1930 A,B,C cars used the Type A lamp in chrome plate.Unlike the earlier Type A’s this lamp does not have the plug but has the wires running through the bracket connecting to a junction block.The Arrowlite came in on the 1931 41-42-43 cars.It is possible for an Arrowlite to be fitted to an earlier car early in the car’s life.Check the taillamp listing in the 1929 133-143 parts book.My circa September 1929 Roadster with 24000 miles has the Type A lamp and looks exactly like what is shown in the parts book.Most old lights have age cracks and any firm that restores antique car brass parts should be able to spin new lamp bodies that should never crack.
A new one could be spun from brass since you have the original one for a pattern.These have been reproduced in the past.They originally were brass.
I know the 1917 B-4 very well and in fact took several photos of the car when it was being restored back about 1979.The body is new and in fact I suggested several things in its design.If a member is interested in the car,they could contact me through the roster and I can tell them more.
Bob,
Do you know who made your new bronze housing? I think more than one person made these years ago.
Reproduction Model A Ford spatter pattern floor mats have been available for many years.As to who makes them is a question to ask one of the Model A Ford parts vendors.I suspect when the Ford Model A was current that the mats may have been made by Ford in house or perhaps under contract by a manufacturer of rubber parts for the auto industry of that time.The rubber parts would have been natural rubber.
The Foundation did the new 1929 Pierce Arrow exhaust manifolds and this has worked out just fine and I wonder if the same procedures could be used on the mats.There is I believe a 1930 Model B in my area and after I am through checking the template on my car,I can try to contact this other person and see if he can try it on his car.I am just hoping the template does not tear.If it is clear that the same mat will fit 1929-1930-1931 then that really widens the market.To do the mats,how much money does the fabricator want up front?
To cover the risk each person puts up a deposit.I was part of a project to make new exhaust manifolds for the 1931 Packard 840-845 Deluxe Eight automobiles.Each of us as I recall put up a deposit and when finished each of us paid our balance.Some extras were cast and all were sold.30 mats for example might bring the price down to $500 per mat.
David,
I will try to check the template you sent on my 1929 Roadster in the next few days.We are having a bad allergy season here and I had a pretty good allergy attack but now it has cleared so I can get caught up on other things.To get the price down might require a larger order so it is important to see if your template fits other models and bodies in the 1929-1931 period.I do remember writing Otto Klausmeyer about this some years back and I recall he mentioned a carpet front floor mat was an option which if this be the case would make things simpler.There are certainly more than 15 1929-1931 Pierce Arrows in existence and if each person wanting one put up a deposit and say it resulted in say 30 orders,would this not render a lower price on each mat?
Speaking of 1911 Pierce Arrow Model 36’s,there is one listed for sale in the current issue of the AACA “Antique Automobile””that just arrived in the mail the other day.”
Everybody’s eyes are different and if one needs a bit more light the halogens probably are a good option as one needs to be careful not to overload the electrical system.The LEDs should be fine for taillights and stoplights.An upgrade on lighting for vehicles with sealed beams I did as did others was to fit EC Code headlamps like Marchal,Cibie or Hella.These used a 45/40 watt bulb and later versions used a 65/55 watt H4 bulb.Sealed beams are not legal in some countries and cars usually fitted with sealed beams have to be fitted with EC headlamps.One night though I had to drive my 1930 Packard 745 through the country area where I live and those huge headlamps had newly silvered reflectors with #1000 32-32cp bulbs and I found those lights to be a bit brighter than the sealed beams on my Datsun pickup but then the Packard lamps are almost a foot wide with deep reflectors.Both my 1915 and 1929 Pierce Arrows have very deep reflectors and on high could be blinding and that is with period 21cp bulbs.
When discussing these LED bulbs being used in antique automobiles something to keep in mind is that if a bulb is not compatible with the lens and reflector it could throw blinding light in all directions causing issues for oncoming drivers.This is a huge issue on car headlights today and further complicated by aftermarket products out there which in some cases are meant for countries that drive on the left like Japan and Great Britain.When used in countries that dive on the right these lamps can be a hazard.The best way I feel to have good headlights on an antique vehicle is to have properly silvered reflectors and the electrical system in good order.Pierce Arrows with electric headlamps up through the 1920’s used a 21cp bulb generally known as a #1129.The Mazda lamp chart in my 1933 Motors Shop Rate Manual lists for cars using this bulb for brighter headlamps to use a #1133 32cp bulb.For cars that use a #1110 21-21cp bifocal bulb the chart specifies a #1000 32-32cp bulb.A few years later the #1188 50-32cp came out.The halogen equivalents being sold by antique car parts vendors might be an option but the use of LEDs on a resistance dimming system might result in the loss of light when one dims their lamps as LEDs unless specially designed to do so do not work on dimming systems.
This Model 36 was on Ebay a few years ago and the engine was a C-4 engine.The photos look like the ones on the Ebay posting.I remember it sold.
The lenses on these earlier cars were designed for a specified bulb in order to get a proper beam pattern.Modern bulbs while brighter may not be compatible with the lens so there could be useless light or even blinding light.There are in some cases differences in filament design between the bulbs available in the past and what is available today.A good example is the number 1129 21cp which was specified for Pierce Arrow headlamps prior to very late 1929.This bulb had a V shaped filament but later this bulb had a design change to a more flat filament as #1129 was no longer used for headlights or spotlights which required a focus but now was used for stoplights on six volt cars like the pre-1967 Volkswagens where such optics were not a concern.Even some of the new headlight bulbs sold by the antique car parts dealers have a different filament shape from what was available years ago.I have noticed on the edges of lenses a notation of the Mazda bulb number to be used with that lens.If one needs more light a very good solution might be clamp on lights on the bumper bar that could be removed for a show and the same could be done for the rear of the car in an easily removed light bar.
One must remember that many of if not all resistance dimming systems work by cutting the voltage in half when dimming the lamps so 6 volts would become 3 volts to the bulbs when in dim position.Halogen bulbs put out alot of heat and this could crack a rare lens.
This discussion about LED bulbs in antique cars is interesting but in the end,they just do not look right.A friend who shows very beautiful Model A Fords in national meets tells me the judges look through the lens at the headlight bulbs to see if they had the ridges in the glass like headlight bulbs had when Model A’s were new and not the later type.A halogen or LED would certainly cost points.I have driven many times an antique car at night with stock bulbs and never had problems with seeing.My 1929 133 Roadster has NOS ribbed glass Edison Mazda 21cp bulbs in her headlamps and these lights on high will blind you.These are the bulbs called for to use in the headlamps and they are visible looking into the McKeelite lens.Many earlier cars have a resistance dimming system and the use of LED’s might not even be compatible with such systems so as to lose your lights entirely when dimming the lamps.Not all domestic LED’s work with dimmers.
David,
I still have the template you sent me and if it is not too cold this weekend I will try to lay it down on the floor of my 1929 Roadster and see how it fits.I got tied up with a bunch of business stuff around the time you sent it.I certainly want to get one of these new mats if it will fit.
