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My trunk rack is original, but it’s a 1931, so I don’t think it’s like the 1929 rack that’s being discussed. I do not have the heavy supports that are shown in the pictures.
When I say “original” on mine, all the original components are there, I’ve just modified them to bring the trunk in close to the back of the phaeton body. I don’t like the trunk sticking out way back from the body, and the accompanying stretched bumper.
In the 1950’s and 1960’s, Bellitte & Sons bicycle shop in New York City took Raleigh bicycles, modified them, and rebadged them with the Pierce Arrow badges and decals as shown on your bike.
Your bicycle is a nice example of that effort, and is a collectable for sure, just not associated with the Pierce Arrow company in any way.
I know it’s yours! That’s why I posted it, trying to figure out how it was together and what was missing or wrong!
Do you have pics of your car as found? I see now S brackets, large support brackets then the large T shaped fitting holding everything together on the side…
oops, maybe not mirror images, the rods that screw into them compensate for the angle…..wish we had an “edit”” option for posts instead of just a “”delete””…”
Can you post another view of the first picture? There’s a socket that goes in the curve, top of the body at rear, for the top rests. This would screw inside the body with a plate as shown, and at right angle would be a large threaded tube. The rod to which the top rest attaches screws into this threaded tube.
If the “bottom” part of the first pictured item is a threaded tube, then it’s that piece, and again, there should be two of them, mirror images.
One piece of advice, you appear to have the chrome spread out on a piece of plywood, or possibly a piece of cardboard.
Either WILL scratch the chrome. You need soft cloths or towels under the pieces to keep them from getting scratched.
Chrome is “perfect” when it is unwrapped, and goes downhill from there….
Your second individual piece picture appears to be the support bracket for the top, if the “dark” end is threads, fits inside the car and the threaded piece is what the bottom of the top irons attach to and pivot around. If that’s what it is, it only needed chrome on the last little piece before the threads, the rest is hidden under upholstery. You should have two of them.
I can’t help you on the luggage rack, on my phaeton I moved it close in to the back of the body, inside the rear bumper, so my landau bars are not in original configuration.
Contact me at [email protected] thanks
I wish I knew what I’ve done wrong in my life.
Everyone raves about Optima batteries, I’ve owned one in my life, it was in a car for about a year, the car was driven about once a month just to keep everything moving and charged.
After a year it went bad, totally dead, could not be charged.
I’m glad that others have good luck with them, I’m sort of bummed by my experience….
The Hagerty study proves that never have so many been so wrong….
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This one is back on Ebay, I sure wish someone would buy it as it’s been for sale for a while. The seller should take a modest profit and move on…
Craig, I did not catch that, the title does say “bundle”, so maybe it is for all five. Being simplistic, five cars at $25K each, maybe not too far off on the first three, but the two later cars aren’t in that ballpark. The three prewar cars all look like they need a lot of work., though…..
The picture is actually two batteries wired in parallel, to give same voltage but double the amperage.
Wired in series, a plus terminal on one battery to the minus terminal on the other, you’d get double the voltage at the same amperage.
I don’t think shipping is awful, I’ve shipped a couple of cars that I’ve sold overseas, and I think it can be done for $3K-5K
I have a few thoughts.
First, if you’re going to put a patch it, I would think you’d cut a new piece of metal to the shape of the hole, then if JB Weld is an option, use that to secure the new piece. One thing about JB is that the metal needs to be super clean so it adheres, so you’d have to really put the cleaning power to the edge of the hole. Wire brush or otherwise, best would be bead blast but that’s not possible on the car.
The other issue is you have cracks radiating out from the hole, and these will continue to grow. At minimum, drill a small hole at the end of each crack, and fill it with JB or something else. This will at least stop the crack from growing.
I’m sure there are other’s who will chime in who’ve had more experience with this. There are also skilled craftsman out there who could heat this up and put in a welded patch, but then you have other issues.
If I were you I’d also start looking for another manifold, if this one has such a large issue at that spot, you can figure that it may have other issues, too, that just aren’t visible at this time.
…and the second one is a Model 43 phaeton, what’s not to like?
http://www.prewarcar.com/188264-pierce-arrow-model-43-sport-phaeton-1931
That dealer information is straight from an original 1929 factory document, by the way, so it’s not conjecture….
According to my 1929 list of Pierce Arrow dealers, in Oklahoma at the time was:
Tulsa- Wilson Motor Co. 230 E. 15th Street
Okmulgee- Earles Wright Motor Co.
Holdenville- S.E. WEst
Miami- Schorers Motor Co.
Muskogee – R.P. White
That’s it for Oklahoma in 1929….
I should have said the Ken/Ellie/David Pierce Detective Service!
Virginia has YOM, Year of Manufacture, plate laws too, and most years were pairs, which are required for YOM. The prices of nice Virginia license plate pairs has risen accordingly.
