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David,

That is a reproduction Mascot!

Peter

WHAT? Plastic and magnetic aren’t original?? I’m crushed, I think I paid a buck two ninety eight for it, there’s money that’s lost!!

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That’s fantastic!

I’m doing my part to keep the Pierce name going, just brought home my new 2018 Pierce Sluburban, the Buffalowing Special Edition.

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I’m actually trying to help someone else out, who’s restoring a 1931 Model 43.

They have the face, what they are missing is the mechanism, as someone converted the clock to a newer works and got rid of the original.

The clock in my car is intact. Guess it starts another discussion, the faces on all my 1931 instruments are white faced. His ’31 was black faced, even though same model. Almost seems to be random…..

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I don’t have a picture of the back of the clock, it’s the rectangular style that was used 1929-31, as in this picture.

Can you send me a picture of what you have? [email protected] thanks!

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Bill, in that price range for a 1910-1913 car, you will see some advertised, but the majority of the really nice early cars sell “through the grapevine” and advertising is not necessary.

If I were looking for such a car, I’d do a little research and find out who the people are that, shall we say, are members of the “in crowd” of the early car scene. That should be fairly easy to do with a little research. Then, I’d be making phone calls, and showing up at some of the major events. Bakersfield, for example, and the Brass in Berks County event. You’ll find that four or five names keep coming up, and those are the people who know where the good stuff is and if it can be bought.

You may happen upon an advertisement for a good car, but I can tell you that for every one advertised, there are ten sold that you never hear of.

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Thanks! It could be mine are wider than I measured, as mentioned, hard to get under trunk!

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In a side question, I was just asked how wide the metal strips on my ’31 trunk rack are….they are hard to get to, since there’s a trunk mounted on them, but they appear to be 3/4 inch (three quarters of an inch) wide….can someone verify that for me, I’m having to eyeball from the side with a ruler…thanks

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Very nice….it’s great that some of these projects get done. It always takes people aback when they ask “where do you get parts for a Pierce”” and I tell them that a LOT of parts are reproduced…”

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On my 1931, the rear corner pieces have to be larger than the front pieces, as the molding at the bottom edge of the hood widens as it goes to the rear. This also results in the rivet hole being in a different location.

Are the ones you’ve had sewn all the same size, or, asked another way, what are dimensions?

thanks dc

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My trunk rack is original, but it’s a 1931, so I don’t think it’s like the 1929 rack that’s being discussed. I do not have the heavy supports that are shown in the pictures.

When I say “original” on mine, all the original components are there, I’ve just modified them to bring the trunk in close to the back of the phaeton body. I don’t like the trunk sticking out way back from the body, and the accompanying stretched bumper.

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In the 1950’s and 1960’s, Bellitte & Sons bicycle shop in New York City took Raleigh bicycles, modified them, and rebadged them with the Pierce Arrow badges and decals as shown on your bike.

Your bicycle is a nice example of that effort, and is a collectable for sure, just not associated with the Pierce Arrow company in any way.

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I know it’s yours! That’s why I posted it, trying to figure out how it was together and what was missing or wrong!

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Do you have pics of your car as found? I see now S brackets, large support brackets then the large T shaped fitting holding everything together on the side…

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oops, maybe not mirror images, the rods that screw into them compensate for the angle…..wish we had an “edit”” option for posts instead of just a “”delete””…”

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Can you post another view of the first picture? There’s a socket that goes in the curve, top of the body at rear, for the top rests. This would screw inside the body with a plate as shown, and at right angle would be a large threaded tube. The rod to which the top rest attaches screws into this threaded tube.

If the “bottom” part of the first pictured item is a threaded tube, then it’s that piece, and again, there should be two of them, mirror images.

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One piece of advice, you appear to have the chrome spread out on a piece of plywood, or possibly a piece of cardboard.

Either WILL scratch the chrome. You need soft cloths or towels under the pieces to keep them from getting scratched.

Chrome is “perfect” when it is unwrapped, and goes downhill from there….

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Your second individual piece picture appears to be the support bracket for the top, if the “dark” end is threads, fits inside the car and the threaded piece is what the bottom of the top irons attach to and pivot around. If that’s what it is, it only needed chrome on the last little piece before the threads, the rest is hidden under upholstery. You should have two of them.

I can’t help you on the luggage rack, on my phaeton I moved it close in to the back of the body, inside the rear bumper, so my landau bars are not in original configuration.

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Contact me at [email protected] thanks

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I wish I knew what I’ve done wrong in my life.

Everyone raves about Optima batteries, I’ve owned one in my life, it was in a car for about a year, the car was driven about once a month just to keep everything moving and charged.

After a year it went bad, totally dead, could not be charged.

I’m glad that others have good luck with them, I’m sort of bummed by my experience….

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The Hagerty study proves that never have so many been so wrong….

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