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As I tell my son, you’re mostly welcome! Always nice when a piece of automotive trivia stuck in the brain is useful….
I’ve owned a few mid-30’s eights, and one 12, and of course the 12 was a fantastic driver, with the effortless power.
The question has come up in Packard circles too, which do you prefer, 8 or 12. The answer seems to be, if you show them, the 12, but if you drive them, the 8. The reason cited is cost of rebuild, if the 8 breaks it’s $x to fix, if the 12 breaks it’s $3x to fix….
This is not, of course, everyone’s opinion, but it’s a reasoning I’ve come across numerous times…
Excellent find and welcome to the club! A great project and a rare car by any definition…congrats!
Have your reflectors nickel plated, then send to Uvira for the aluminized coating process, excellent reflective surface and you never have to polish…. [email protected]
By the way, chrome is an awful reflector coating, although it shines, it absorbs a lot of light.. not intuitive but true…
I saw the pictures of this car a couple of months ago, and shared with Ed, he agreed that it was a conversion. As he also said, it’d be a fun car for about half that price or less……
In 1966, I helped a fellow paint my first car, a 1931 Chevrolet tudor sedan.
We used lacquer, which was still very much in use at the time (at least for restorations).
He would spray 3 coats, then we’d sand down the paint. Then he’d spray 3 more, and repeat. We did this 5 times, for a total of 15 coats and 5 sandings, that’s 20 steps just in the paint…and doesn’t count surface preparation and final color sanding and buffing.
I can understand that the total could reach the 40 to 50 range if each step is broken down…
Excellent! Well done…
Rick, thanks for that information….that has to be the reason…sounds like he was quite a man for sure….
That’s what I thought too, but one picture under the hood sure seems to show a power steering pump and hoses.
It’s always bugged me that people will get a worn out car, with bad steering and front suspension, and then say “they’re all like that”..when it’s not true. I believe, as you state, that the steering on the car had problems and the “fix”, instead of doing it correctly, was to add power…
Went back and looked at pictures, it appears that power steering has been added to the car. That kind of shocks me, because the ’36 shed find car that I drove on the Hershey field a few years ago steered very, very easily. Not sure about the material in the front area either, looks like some of it might not be leather…..
So, that might mean one of two scenarios.
The buyer bought it thinking they could do a little work and turn a profit.
The buyer bought it and found out that it needed more work than he was willing to do, so decided to sell it.
There could be other reasons of course. Looks decent in the pictures…
I wanted to buy it but was over turned by my wife….
Wow, would love to see the pics, see if he’ll let you post them!
It’s a big, big country, and there are still cars tucked away waiting to be found.
And, Ed, you’re very good at finding them…..
What a tough thing to estimate…for one thing, the chrome bill would be high, as you mention even the steering column on these cars was chrome, and although some is driver quality, you’re going to spend some…interior $10K or more….paint $10K minimum and probably more….a questionable engine adds to the bill, as does an $800 hood ornament…yes, the hood strip attaches to the back of the hood ornament and then to the “tail of the arrow” on the cowl, viewed from above the hood center strip is an arrow…..although the shutters could be bought from factory painted to match car, it’s very unusual, figure chrome on shell and shutters at $1500-2000… .this is why project cars are such a tough buy and a tough sell….
Going out on a limb, and of course people can disagree, I’d say you could go out and buy a wonderful restored 840 sedan for $35 to $50K, depending on a lot of other conditions. If you bought this one for $10K, you’d have $40k-50K or more in it by the time you’re done….
Not trying to be negative, just realistic….but if the car speaks to you and you want to save it go for it….
I believe if you look underneath the column drop, to the side and under the switch cylinder, you’ll see the head of a pin. This is a drive pin that wedges to the cylinder and locks it in place. I believe this needs to be drilled out for the cylinder to be removed.
If I’m wrong expect I’ll be corrected quickly….
I believe this is an 840, you could order it with the rear mount, the ’35 coupe I used to own had a rear mount…and wasn’t the 836 grill stamped, not shutters?
Rick was talking about the base piece, on my car there was a base piece that formed a border around the slightly raised veneer portion. The visible part of the base piece around the edges was maybe a half inch or so, and was of a different wood than the veneer…
He sounds like a good source for them!
I agree on the gloss, maybe it’s not semi-gloss but it should be super high gloss either….
Be thankful you’re on a forum that can post the truth about cars for sale. If you posted the same information on the AACA forum, it’d likely get deleted.
I once made a comment about an early race car that was for sale, knowing for a fact that it started out as part of an engine only, and was chastised and deleted for criticizing a car (and they fear for litigation also)…
