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Good point on the materials used. I will make sure the material is auto motive. This upholsterer does all automotive and marine upholstery and I have seen some of his work.

Will it detract from the desirability if the material chosen is not of the same type as the original?

Sorry for the sideways picture.

here is another angle.

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John

Mary and I would love to have you join us. It has been a few years.

We will pick out the upholstery material on Monday. The original is gray pin striped broadcloth very thin. Mary wants to go with a more modern more durable material. We pick some samples out last fall but now we will have to narrow the choices to one. Probably a brownish mohair. we will see.

Thanks for the recommendation on the backing material.

The upholsterer that we have chosen does excellent custom work so I am looking forwards to the finished product.

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Just a follow up,

I did call Steele Rubber Products and found that the Cadillac bumpers will work for my Pierce Arrow.

Got a set in sent in a few days.

Thanks for your help.

Cal Dyke

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I bought my firewall insulator from Quietride

solutions for my 29. I was disappointed when I got it. It was not like the original. Only half as thick and the material they used was not correct. For what I paid for it I really expected more.

Cal

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Shell Rotella oil is a diesel engine oil. The reason it is recommended for our older cars is because it has higher levels of zinc as do many other diesel oils. The levels are higher than in modern auto oils. Higher zinc levels are desirable for flat tappet engines and help prevent cam wear.

Higher zinc levels were needed in the 60’s when manufacturers went to greater valve spring pressure. I think the jury is out as to if we need the extra zinc for our older cars because of the relative low spring pressures in our older engines. The older oil formulations did not have the levels of zinc that we are talking about here but then engines did not last like they do now.

Cal

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Well once more looking under the grease.

I began scraping the grease off from my ’29 133 before it put the battery box back on. I was surprised to see a red oxide primer under the black paint and grease. The black paint comes off quite easy with the old grease. The red paint is one with the frame steel. It does not scrape off. I am great full for that. The paint has protected the frame steel very well. I do believe that the under carriage is original and has not been repainted.

Cal Dyke

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Thanks for the opinions on the paint color. The original lower body and upper body color on the car is called granite gray. Actually it is kind of a greenish gray. The belt molding and fenders are a tan color I forget the name of the color at the moment. The colors are similar to the model A ford Chicle drab ans Copra drab.

I was planning on painting the original colors so the firewall would be painted the Granite Gray. I just found it odd that the belt molding is the lighter color. Usually the belt molding on cars is the darker of the two colors of a two tone paint job.

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Hi Mena

For my 2 cents worth. Yours is a late manifold and I believe Lionel’s is a replacement for the early one.

I bought a manifold gasket set I think from Olsen’s gaskets. It fit very poorly and burned out after little running. I recently purchased exhaust manifold gasket material and made my own. I was pleased with how mine sealed.

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Waldron exhaust in Michigan should be able to help you out. I called them for my 29; they made a complete exhaust system without looking at mine. They have all of the patterns. They can make stainless steel systems too.

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Bill

I have successfully used a product called “Timesaver” lapping compound for tight bearings.

It is used to lap in plain Babbitt bearings. The powder comes in different grades of fineness. Mixed with oil it forms a paste that is placed in a bearing and then the shaft or crank is rotated. The fine grit breaks down in a few minutes of use and needs to be replenished if the bearing clearance is not enough. If one Googles “Time Saver Lapping” many sources come up.

When I rebuilt my ’29 I used intake and exhaust valves from John Deere and IHC farm tractors. I found them by searching valves by size on the Sealed Power web site. The valves used in modern farm tractors are superior to anything that was made 80 years ago. I found valves that had slightly larger heads so that I could grind the seats a little larger and clean up all of the pitting that was evident. That way the valve sits up higher, more like when the engine was new.

Anyway, my 2 cents worth.

Cal

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Thanks George. I bought the 1" ends back to Northwestern Auto and they did find two new ends that had the correct size and thread (7/8-14). That is a real odd pitch for threads on a tie rod. Most are 16 or 18 TPI. My tie rod ends were the early take-a-part type that is evidently different than the later ones that you referred to (1"). The number on my new 7/8 tie rod ends are TP24. Anyway so that is one more item that is taken care of as ready my PA for touring.
I am continually amazed at the inventory that Northwestern Auto Supply has. It might be worth while for members to check with them for possible solutions to hard to find parts.

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Well I got egg on my face. I just went out to the shop to try the tie rod ends and they are not correct. My tie rod is 7/8" DIA. The tie rod ends I picked up today are for a tie rod that is 1" DIA. I will call Northwestern tomorrow to see what they say. I will let you know how this all works out.

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Thanks for the info. The W16Y plug has a 5/8 reach. it does have the 8-32 thread and is one step colder than the W18. they are about $6.60 a piece. I do not have my engine running yet since rebuild so I haven’t tried them. The Autolite 3076 has a 8-36 thread at the end, so the brass terminal will not fit directly. I suppose one could chase the treads with an 8-32 die and make them work. The AC plugs C77L that were in my engine also had a 3/4 reach. When I get my engine running I will have to see what happens.
Right now in Michigan it is 3 degrees with 30 MPH winds so I won’t be driving vintage cars today!!

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I found it. Type the address in just like Quentin listed it without the www.
Makes for interesting reading.

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Thanks Bill. Do you know the length of the PA decals that are on the oil galley covers? I see some decals on eBay but I/m not sure if they are the correct size.

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