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Dave Kirchenbauer is often set up with us at Hershey on “Pierce Arrow Row” and I am sure he would be happy to hear from you. He has several Pierce cars, and others as well. A true car guy.

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Looks like a nice car in 1965, I expect with some effort you will be able to figure it out.

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David……..believe it or not, a 1932 Pierce Series 54 Club Brougham is the most common body style Pierce Arrow that is in existence. Knowing the color, inside and out, as well as details like side mount covers, and type of wheels will help narrow it down.

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They are a great system, and last depending on driving habits. It’s no more or less work than any other car to do a clutch, and the power brake unit just adds another two hours to the job if it needs to be done over. It’s less than a days work in and out if you have all the parts on hand.

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Steele also sells very old product. They make a batch and it often sits for years,,,,,,,

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They are great cars…….no reason to hesitate about any drivability issues. 1935 is one of my favorite years for Pierce.

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As-ask

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Richard, running an incorrect carb can ruin your engine, as a few people posting here. They are NOT at all similar. You can melt a piston or burn some valves, and possibly crack the block.

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You can make a new UU2 in bronze by casting…….it has been done (similar carb) the casting will cost about 9k per carb.

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The problem with UU2 carbs are there are five different castings and they fit more than 80 cars……so even if you find one, it probably won’t be right for a Pierce. Then you still have large and small choke horns, one or two choke shafts, different jets, idle air screws, etc,etc,etc. Same applies to UUR2 except they fit 185 different applications. Carbs are getting very difficult to find. Most on eBay are junk….they look good, cost 800 to 1500, are incorrect, and when you get them apart they are no good. They also rot from the inside out, so just because the bowl isn’t cracked, that doesn’t mean its good. As for price……don’t complain……..I just did a carb that the purchase and overhaul makes 3 grand look like Childs play…..rare stuff is getting almost impossible to find.

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Any trailer with 15 inch wheels is an issue. Even the eight lug 16 tires are having huge problems. The low end cheap trailers being manufactured today are absolute junk, with frame issues as well as a bunch of other problems…….I could go on for pages.

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You can go chrome or painted……..what do you need a photo for……linkage, missing parts, ect. Let me know, I may have photos of a 30 somewhere if that will help. They are a pain to get working correctly, you don’t want them to bind, but if they are loose they will rattle.

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24 is a minimum. Remeasure your car, it should be 18 or 19 feet bumper to bumper. Don’t buy a trailer with 15 inch wheels, they aren’t heavy enough. You can NEVER buy a trailer that’s built too well.

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The old Pierce Arrow rule applies…….almost anything can and was done for the customer back in the day, and over the years the different wheel options Pierced offered and used is almost staggering, especially compared to some of the more common luxury makes. My old 32 Coupe Series 54 came with factory chrome wheels. In 1930 and 1931 you could have four and possibly five choices for wheels………and that doesn’t even consider painted, chrome, or stainless.

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I can’t remember the last time I saw an alternator on a Pierce…..maybe twenty years ago. The Delco and Owens Generator’s work fine, day or night, and are trouble free. Think about it, thr Pierce cars have traveled literally millions of miles with generators……….they look out of place, require too many modifications, and they don’t offer any advantage over stock equipment. If you having charging issues, people here will be happy to help you get moving in thr right direction. Ed

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Yes Robert, that’s your car when new……….and at a show in Key Largo a few years ago, It’s one of the best Pierce Arrows in the world………..runs and drives as good as it looks.

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The 35 12 convertible coupe now owned by Robert Brown cam from the factory with wire wheels, which Ralph Schmidt didn’t like……so he traded them to Tom Lyons for artillery wheels, and it was very difficult to find another set for the car….which I did. He also gave away the side mount covers, which were a living hell to locate. I have a photo of Robert’s car on the Chicago Auto Show stand with the wires on it. Bob Sand’s 34 Brunn Town Car came with chrome wires also from a Chicago Auto Show photo.

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I have photos of a 1602 Conv Coupe and a 1601 on a 144 inch wb Conv Sedan with wire wheels, both factory photos. Won’t post here due to size.

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The covers are hard to weld, as usually the area is bigger than you realize and there usually isn’t anything to weld to. A patch would work if you have an area big enough to weld to. The problem with welding is the cover is so thin it will twist and warp severely, so you need to clamp it down and then it still will have issues afterwards, but with careful attention you can usually get them close enough to seal against the block. Best bet is sandblast and repair, install new baffles and then straighten it out. The baffle is soldered on.

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Sorry, photo is too big to post………

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