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Engine,

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More,

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Another,

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He was at the PAS meet in Buffalo this year, with his car. Maybe last years directory?

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Norm is alive and well, still in the club. Give him a call, he would be happy to speak to you. A true Pierce owner!

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Ask Tony Costa…….when we were out to Watkins Glen he swore my V-12 was flying………..😋 . I have never seen anything aircraft related. What MAY be possible is a modified motorcycle engine like they did with the Hendersons. But that is just conjecture. Ed.

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Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family John. Today will be the last day for my Pierce to go for a spin till spring. It’s 17 degrees this morning. My best to all the members.

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Greg’s post is correct. I would only add that the best way to adjust the box is out of the car, on a bench. At the point you are at the box should be taken apart and cleaned. Most often the old grease in the box is so dried out it will interfere with adjusting it correctly. Also, you can inspect all the bearings and worm. To be honest, I think getting the box correctly set up is beyond most people’s ability. There is a learning curve of what is ok and will work and be safe, and what will damage the box. The box design causes the high or tight spot to be in the center with the cars wheel in the straight ahead position, thus if the wheel is tight or binds to the left or right your roller wheel is not centered. Driving the car this way WILL damage the box. When the box is on the bench and cleaned up, it is much easier to understand how it works and adjustments are made. Also when adjusting the box, I like to have the wheel off the shaft. You can feel the binding and high spot much easier if you only turn the shaft directly with your fingers, with no wheel on it. Also, many boxes have been run dry over the years when the lubricant leaked out and people were not aware of it. The Gemmer box can be quite a challenge to service, even if you have done them in the past. Member John Cislak has done more than 25 of them in the past few years, and has made parts for them also. Watching him in the shop repairing one I see him spend hours getting them just right. Hope all this makes sense. Good luck, Ed Minnie.

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The Kouri “roadster” engine should be examined by an expert to determine if it is a car engine, an experimental engine, or a fire truck engine. I have an opinion, based on detailed photos, but would like to examine it in person. The Kouri info needs to be PROVEN or posting about it here in this form may turn legend, conjecture, or other past rumors and information into “fact”. Period photos, build sheet, or other verifiable proof of what the car is or is not should be determined, I have lots of thoughts on this car, but for now am keeping them to myself. The most interesting question is, is it a Pierce Arrow? Is it a early or of the era hot rod or rich mans toy? I think I have the car figured out the best I can from photos, but I would like to see it some day. Does any one have hard facts of its build and construction of this car? Ed.

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The steering box is out of adjustment. It’s a complicated box and people not familiar with them should not adjust or service them. With the box binding to only one side it is way out of adjustment. You can gall and damage the worm, a very expensive problem. I recommend only a quailified tech service it. There are virtually no parts available over the counter. Seems with brake and box issues, you are fighting multiple issues as I stated earlier. It’s best to go through EVERYTHING or else you are just running in circles. Ed.

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No worries! 👍

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Richard, I checked google images and see three cars with the vent opposit where yours currently is. Also a 29 factory image shows it opposit also. Greg, can you post a photo of your 29, does it have the stack and tube on it? Ed.

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More information is always helpful, and I agree with Greg it is not the brakes. Having the same issue before the alignment and new tires points to other issues. 1/16 toe in is probably in the low side of the correct range, if memory serves me. I have done hundreds of alignments in my modern repair shop, and if no listed toe was available, I would put it at 1/4 inch. Tire wear is not a concern for 99 percent of old cars so you could even try more and drive it to see if it helps out. I expect you will find king pin or some other issue. You stated the front end was rebuilt, bot who ever did it may have a different defination of what that means compared to the rest of us. Have the shackle pins and bearings been replaced? What is the condition of the kick shackle? 30 Pierce Gemmer steering boxes had pot metal races in them, they are unsafe and should be changed out no mater what the condition of the steering box. It probably would make sense to go through the box if you have the skills. Often this is one of those problems that can be a real test of both skills and patience , don’t give up. It can be a long hard grind getting the death wobble to go away. Keep us posted with what you find, Ed.

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I have never seen a factory installed shim. I think years of working on coach built bodies with master craftsmen was the reason why. I am sure the final door gaps were fit by using lead down the entire door length, then filed to where they wanted them. If you look at factory photos, the gaps are even and well done. BUT they seem to be larger than today’s restoration standards. When we restored my 36 we ended up doing a fair amount of metal repair, so we used steel to get the gaps right as I was concerned too much filler would chip over the years. It’s not an exact science, wnd when working to repair cars after years of sitting and wood or worn out hinge issues, it can be quite difficult. Before shimming a door, one should shim the body mounts, it’s amazing how much asking or subtracting a body shim will move things around. Often, it is old dry wood that has changed its shape causing issues. Doors start to potato chip away from the jams. Turn buckles and shims are often required to correct the problem. Be sure to paint the shims under the hinge as to help hide them. Nothing looks worse than off colored shims painted with a brush.

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All interesting observations. The hardest things to find are often a combination of issues. With no loose front end parts being detected, I would start by rotating tires. It’s the fastest and easiest way to begin elimination of issues. My 36 1602 had a high speed wobble after hitting a bump. Everything was known to be correct after the total restoration. (Remember most people don’t dig deep into the chassis when restoring a car due to money or time issues.) we had brought every part back to new factory condition. We ended up being able to install a steering dampener where you can’t see it. In 25 years of judging no one has ever deducted for it at PAS or CCCA. I didn’t want to use it, but it solved the problem. The joy of old cars is spending all your free time on weekends trying to solve issues that make you want to pull all of your hair out. Some cars can be a big challenge. I am working on a car right now that every nut and bolt is kicking my AXX! Sometimes a new set of eyes will make things go easier. It will be interesting to see what the final problem/s are. In the past when we have a wheel shake at the shop and there is another Pierce there, we just swap all the wheels from a car with no issues. Thus eliminating any tire or rim problems. Makes fast work of the repairs, but most often people don’t have access to another car. Good luck, Ed.

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Did the car come out of the Boston area? I remember seeing a similar car about 10 years ago offered east of me.

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At such a slow speed I would suspect a loose front end component. If the car is un drivable at 30 mph I don’t think it could be a tire issue. Ed

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Thanks for the photos, nice car! I like the double rear spare.

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Steering box issues? In 1930 Gemmer boxes had lots of problems. Does a 30 have a kick shackle? Most shimmy issues are at higher speeds than 30 mph. How much free play is in the wheel? How about the pitman arm? Ed

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In 1968 I was 18 months old……..guess that’s as good a reason as any that I don’t remember it!

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