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They are windshield wiper bezels. Enjoy your new toy. Post any questions you may have. Photos help. Ed

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Well done video. We are lucky to be a part of the AACA library.

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Most of the stuff online is not correct as to size or fit. Your car has 4 mufflers. The pipes should be mandrel bent, and they are 2 1/4 and 2 3/8? depending on location. The factory mufflers were wrapped and double walled. Currently only John Cislak makes them. He just finished a production run recently but I am not sure if he has any left. Smaller pipe, crushed pipes from modern benders, and incorrect mufflers will cause horse power loss. You can lose up to 20 HP from a poorly made exhaust.

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Thanks Bill.

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Just my two cents. From what I understand, often you car will have a shok that is not rebuildable, thus you may want to have a spare or two on hand when you do your project. ed

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I would like them also. Ed

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Sold for 750.00.

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750.00 and still 2 hours to go. People like to gamble. I wonder where it will end up. Notice the extra hole in the choke horn and the moden fitting on the drain. Not a good sign that it is a old spare, more of an indication it’s a take off with problems.

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I need two also. Ed

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EE-3’s have no issues. The UUR-2’s are MUCH better than the UU-2. Ed

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Venturies are wrong size, both large and small, as well as idle circuit tube, main jets, air bleeds, choke and choke horn, economizer valve, idle discharge tube, linkage, idle mixture screw, idle channel holes, and several parts of the casting are different. (There are no less than 5 main body castings and three different upper castings.) A Pierce engine is either 366 CID, 385 CID, and the 1930 model C 358? But UU-2 carbs were built to run on engines from 198 CID to over 500 CID. SO yes there are huge differences from one carb to another. You could easily spend 700.00 on buying correct parts to convert it to PA. Add another 400.00 if you need another choke horn. It’s cheaper to buy the correct carb than to install the wrong one and burn a valve running lean.

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Ok……I will chime in. I have no problem with the overdrive installed, but I would rather a high speed ring and pinion. First I don’t like the look of the extra shift lever. I see from Greg’s comment he uses the OD 95 % of the time. I think I would hide the shift lever under the car or hood as it is only used rarely. As a purist, having an extra assembly under the car also bothers me. I restored my 1936 1602 ONLY because it had a factory overdrive, otherwise I would have bought a 35 V-12 to restore as I like the body style better. I think the gear set is less expensive as an option and less work to install. I had only seen a gear vendor splitter / overdrive in the past, and the Mitchell is new to me. It looks like a good unit, and if in the market for an overdrive I would use it. I think there MAY be a safety issue with the splitter / OD units on the 33 to 35 Stewart Warner brake systems. If the unit has a neutral or non engaged spot there would be no brakes, and thus a very dangerous situation could develop. One also must remember that just because a Pierce can go 75 MPH does not mean it should. A perfectly restored and operating car can be driven at higher speeds, but a barn find car that has not been properly gone through could and would be very dangerous to drive if the steering, brakes, wheels, and shocks are not operating at 100 percent. My estimate is that 75 percent of the cars currently at the meets are below par on brakes, steering, and suspension. Many also have bent or out of true rims and old or very old tires and tubes. Thus a disaster on a improperly prepared car with an overdrive or high speed rear end could easily happen.

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Yes Bill you are correct. BUT the UU-2 has a higher zinc content in the bodies than the UUR-2 bodies, that’s why UUR-2’s are ten times more stable than the UU-2. Ed

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Bill is correct, and also more than 80 percent have internal issues that make them just good for parts. John has a scrap box with more than 40 UU-2 carbs in it, they just don’t hold up as well as the uur-2 carbs. Ed

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I looked online, where do you see them for sale? Ed

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I agree with Paul. Just when I am sure they did something only one way, I see a car that’s diffrent. I think their rule of thumb was if you can make it fit, put it on a car so we can sell it. Ed

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Paul, I agree the molding has been replaced. The top looks like a factory top to me, or a very early replacment. I thought it may have been a case of resealing a leak. My factory top on my 1933 1247 custom was very smooth with almost no grain. The factory top on my 1936 1602 had a fairly heavy grain. We spent a lot of time and effort and could not get an match to the factory material. Thus I used a LaBaron-Bonny supplied top material. The car is so tall you need to stand on the running boards to see it. The 33 club broughm is very low and thus what ever we put on it will be as close to factory as we can find. The material on Walter’s top is what I remember from my 1933 1247 but not my 1936 1602. Ed.

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Last one.

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Here are three shots of the 33 CB we picked up last summer.

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