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Rule on worm drive rear ends is never to turn the bull gear by moving the axle. Pop starting a worm drive car is a BIG no – no. Use caution. Only tryto break it free by turning the input or drive shaft end.
I spoke to Tom. It’s great to have a new member who is a hardcore car guy. I’m sure he will have it running soon. Tom, post a few more photos when you can. Thanks, Ed.
Classic and Exotic service in Detroit Mi. They do them exchange. See their web site. They do good work.
I’ll bring a 1938 Indian Service Car…… we can drag race them down the parking lot.
Greg is correct the solid lefters are less fussy on spring pressure. It’s common to find all but one spring ok, and then one ends up at 30 pounds and will float the valve as speed. The later lifters will lift the valve open with oil pressure if the springs are not right on. It’s a common problem on rebuilt engines that have had a short cut done to them.
The correct spring rate is 65 pounds, but I don’t have the free spring length or compressed length. (Thus 55 at a shorter compression may be the same as 65 at a more compressed length.)The engineering sheet on the valve springs was three pages long and way more engineering specs than you could imagine. The rate used factory specs from the thirties, and a sample of no less than three style springs Pierce used when new. I have seen several rebuilt Pierce engines with running problems due to weak springs. The valve / spring set up is more complicated than many people understand. See John Cislack’s video on his website to set up valves, springs, and lifters. The parts do NOT interchange and keep the same valve clearance. Watch the video, it is very good. If you have weak springs it’s best to replace them, as shims are a band aid fix and future issues may develop.
He also has a good set of 29 gears and chain, used condition. He has made new valve springs several times in the past 15 years, and they are currently in stock. He also still has some of the no longer made oil pumps. He bought out the stock from Stone about 5 years ago. Jak from down under bought a oil pump a few months ago. He could tell you about them if you like. He posts here often.
John Cislak has direct fit chain and sprockets in stock for 1930 to 1938 8 & 12 on the shelf. He also has good used chains and gears sometimes too.
Hi Jak! No I don’t know any info on it. The photo was marked 1932, But I am sure it’s a 1931 series 41.
I spent the best part of one week last summer fixing one of these things. Soup to nuts repaired the entire system. Then put 10 gallons in the tank and it worked fine. Drove it around for a few days and all was well. The next morning it read zero on a full tank. The same reading of zero for two weeks, then one day it was working fine. It has continued to read or not as the thing feels like it. I wont service it again as I know it’s right. Junk when it was new. My 31 series 42 gas guage is electric and works fine, I wonder why they changed?
If you have a very good starting system you can run the two batteries but only use one for starting, thus you will always have a spare battery with a full charge. If your generator acts up, you can switch over to the spare and drive and start for days of touring without an issue. A great way to keep on the road without making repairs.Ed
It’s Fred Tycher’s old car.
I would put a retail value on the car at 22k, just my 2 cents. Looks like a very nice car. I would put wire wheels on it if it was mine. 32 is a one year ohly car, I think they are the best all around driving car Pierce made.
If you get the casting numbers on the driver side of the block I can ID the year of the engine. Also foundry logo if you can see it under the water pump and generator. Shots of the carbs, starter, and generator/ water pump will also help as they changed over the years. Oil dip stick, exhaust manifold will also help. I wonder if the frame is from a truck, or a car with a section added. Some frame shots would be nice also. Thanks, Ed
Close up of dash, brake and clutch pedal, steering box, radiator from inside of hood. More rear end shots to determine what car the rear came from, close up of hubcap. King pin / spindle shot. Brake drums, that sohuld cover it. Thanks, Ed
Engine numbers are not factory stamped Pierce or Seagrave numbers. Must have beed added later when car was built.
Looks like a V-12 Pierce block with modern bell housing.
Cadillac wheels have eight lugs so they arn’t Cadillac. Hubcaps must have been modified to fit. Last year for snap ring wheels was 32 so they are no newer than that. Someone spent some huge money on this build. Transmission is not Pierce, and is not early 30’s Cadillac.
Cross bar between headlights is 30-31 Caddy. Most of the hardware for the rumble seat is not Caddy and not Pierce. Step plates on rear fenders are Cadillac.Sidemount covers in rear look like 30 V-16 Cadillac. Open the hood please!
Dash has some Cadillac parts, I also see some Pierce parts. Rear end is NOT Pierce and it doesn’t look like Cadillac. Modern drive shaft. Pedals look like Pierce. Shifter knob looks like 1930 Pierce. Keep posting photos please.
