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Boot from top
Charles, I measured the boot we sell and the hole locations are the same as your boot you e-mailed photos: 2 1/4 inches to the center of the hole. With the part numbers the same as the Series 80’s I am sure they will work. Let me know if you need them . Price $80 for pair plus shipping. Priority $6, padded envelope $3. Karl
Charles, I have the boots in stock for the Series 80 and 81 front brake rods. Measure the distance to center of bolts and shaft size and we will see if they are the same. Karl
http://www.rjlautofasteners.com/ is my go to guy for copper core black lac. wire and for any cloth covered wires used on all Pierce Arrows. He should be able to tell you what length you need. I just order 100 ft rolls so I never checked the min. amount needed. I always solder the brass tab to the plug end before use. He sells wire, not made up harnesses. Karl
Craig, Here is a photo of how the Brass end is used at the plugs. Tony, they would be correct for all 1929,30 and 31 Pierces. Thanks, Karl
Craig, PAS judges have always said Black lacquered wire is correct. The plug end of each wire has a brass tab that pushes into hex fitting screwed to each plug. I have reproduced this end and sell them for $52 a set of eight, plus postage. If you need them I have them in stock. I will post a photo of them when I get home. Karl
Shock boot
Randy, I sell the set of eight shock boots and the two front brake boots for $250 plus shipping. I will have them at Hershey if you will be there. Spaces C4A 1-6 Karl
Dave, contact Wayne Hancock, FLA. He had some made. Karl
Dave, contact Wayne Hancock, FLA. He had some made. Karl
Peter, If you have the screwdriver, then you have the OE wrench. I am sure any square ended adjustable spanner would be great to have too. they are always on e-bay. sets of 4 or single ones. I also sell them at Hershey. Karl
Bill, three brush Generators are standard in all Pierces of this vintage. NO Pierces use a voltage regulator. Thus they DO NOT require any polarizing of generator or cutout. Your volt reading at the cutout wire going to the amp gauge will read battery voltage with the car off. When the engine is running the voltage will increase and the amp meter should charge. remove the cap on the cutoff and see if the cutout pulls the contacts down asking for a charge to the battery. By moving the third brush you will increase or decrease the charge rate of the generator. any off idle use should pull the cutout in and keep it in. the only other other time you will see it “cutout” will be if the battery voltage is higher than the set rate of the generator. check this stuff, if you still have neg amps, remove the cover over the brushes, see if you see small arching at all brushes. No, then check for dirt build up or stuck brushes. nothing found, pull the generator for rebuild. Karl
Peter, I have purchased carbs and related pre-war items from Rand Broadstreet. He is in Ohio. His web site is vintagecarb.com phone number 440-786-8141. contact him, he may also have parts or a carb to get you back on the road. Karl
Randy, all the above is good information, but to answer the original question, woodgrain, black and body color are all correct for a closed car dash panel. The upper is also correct in woodgrain, padded, or body color. Hope this answers your original question. Karl
Rick, reverse Field wires and all will be fine. Karl
F. J., All the above is good stuff, but the only fix is the flip wires to the two non adjustable brushes. If it charges fine when the rotation is backwards the shop has them backwards. If the only indicator you have is the amp meter in the dash, and not a volt meter at the generator then we need more info to diagnosis the problem. If the cutout works and the voltage is correct when rotation is wrong then go in and change the field wires. I have seen this before when shops are not told the rotation from the front of the generator. Karl
Bill, my 1921 Pierce 5 ton truck has something like that on it. Can you post a picture from more of a distance. Karl
Tom, to add to Johns info, the grain still shows in the reveals. The factory finish was NOT to fill the wood with coats and coats of varnish for a smooth finish. A correct look would still have some grain depth showing in the wood. High gloss flat finish should be avoided. Karl
A quick note about the Series 80 water pumps. The quality of the rebuild was not the issue here. The time frame to get them back became an issue after the death of the lead re-builder (employee)at the shop I was using. Originally they were looking for more work… and I did not have time to do them myself. The next issue was a 40% increase in the price (with out notice) after they were done! The last issue was additional fees added for installing helicoils at the rear plate that exceeded the cost of the rebuild for the last two pumps. I was not making money, this was a hobby project helping members, it became a way to make enemies? and loose money? I am back to rebuilding my own, as before, and none others. Rick and I had talked to Merlin’s rebuilder last summer and gave him the shaft info, he has one now to work out the details for becoming the next go to guy. Give him some time to work on the first series 80 pump and then we should here from Merlin. His guy has completed a pump for the 31 Cabriolet Merlin had at Hershey using the bearing we use, so he should be able to do anyone’s 8 cyl. car. Karl
This 1919 has been for sale at Legendary Motor Car in Canada for $175K for some time with known history. The bidding stalled at 70K, then a sky box bidder bought it… I think they bought it back and you will see it on there site again? The new owner did not “jump” for joy. I will be very surprised if the Society gets a new member with this car, shill bidding at no reserve auctions? it can’t be!! Saturday night television has to be real!! Karl
