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Charles, It sure looks like the replacement bearing kits we sell for 1929-30 Gimmer boxes. Please measure one of the rollers, if it .250, then check bolt hole and width, We may be able to sell you 2 of them. After a railroad crossing sent one set of rollers and the white metal race to the bottom of the box years ago we have come up with a solution. Karl

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William, My unrestored 1921 Pierce R10 truck wheels has flecks of the same orange paint you have found. It also has a bright blue. I removed some of the grease at the hubs on the inner front wheels to make these discoveries. Karl

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Charles, Just get a check in the mail, and I will ship as soon as it arrives. Karl

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Boot from top

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Charles, I measured the boot we sell and the hole locations are the same as your boot you e-mailed photos: 2 1/4 inches to the center of the hole. With the part numbers the same as the Series 80’s I am sure they will work. Let me know if you need them . Price $80 for pair plus shipping. Priority $6, padded envelope $3. Karl

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Charles, I have the boots in stock for the Series 80 and 81 front brake rods. Measure the distance to center of bolts and shaft size and we will see if they are the same. Karl

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https://www.rjlautofasteners.com/ is my go to guy for copper core black lac. wire and for any cloth covered wires used on all Pierce Arrows. He should be able to tell you what length you need. I just order 100 ft rolls so I never checked the min. amount needed. I always solder the brass tab to the plug end before use. He sells wire, not made up harnesses. Karl

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Craig, Here is a photo of how the Brass end is used at the plugs. Tony, they would be correct for all 1929,30 and 31 Pierces. Thanks, Karl

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Craig, PAS judges have always said Black lacquered wire is correct. The plug end of each wire has a brass tab that pushes into hex fitting screwed to each plug. I have reproduced this end and sell them for $52 a set of eight, plus postage. If you need them I have them in stock. I will post a photo of them when I get home. Karl

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Shock boot

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Randy, I sell the set of eight shock boots and the two front brake boots for $250 plus shipping. I will have them at Hershey if you will be there. Spaces C4A 1-6 Karl

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Dave, contact Wayne Hancock, FLA. He had some made. Karl

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Dave, contact Wayne Hancock, FLA. He had some made. Karl

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Peter, If you have the screwdriver, then you have the OE wrench. I am sure any square ended adjustable spanner would be great to have too. they are always on e-bay. sets of 4 or single ones. I also sell them at Hershey. Karl

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Bill, three brush Generators are standard in all Pierces of this vintage. NO Pierces use a voltage regulator. Thus they DO NOT require any polarizing of generator or cutout. Your volt reading at the cutout wire going to the amp gauge will read battery voltage with the car off. When the engine is running the voltage will increase and the amp meter should charge. remove the cap on the cutoff and see if the cutout pulls the contacts down asking for a charge to the battery. By moving the third brush you will increase or decrease the charge rate of the generator. any off idle use should pull the cutout in and keep it in. the only other other time you will see it “cutout” will be if the battery voltage is higher than the set rate of the generator. check this stuff, if you still have neg amps, remove the cover over the brushes, see if you see small arching at all brushes. No, then check for dirt build up or stuck brushes. nothing found, pull the generator for rebuild. Karl

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Peter, I have purchased carbs and related pre-war items from Rand Broadstreet. He is in Ohio. His web site is vintagecarb.com phone number 440-786-8141. contact him, he may also have parts or a carb to get you back on the road. Karl

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Randy, all the above is good information, but to answer the original question, woodgrain, black and body color are all correct for a closed car dash panel. The upper is also correct in woodgrain, padded, or body color. Hope this answers your original question. Karl

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Rick, reverse Field wires and all will be fine. Karl

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F. J., All the above is good stuff, but the only fix is the flip wires to the two non adjustable brushes. If it charges fine when the rotation is backwards the shop has them backwards. If the only indicator you have is the amp meter in the dash, and not a volt meter at the generator then we need more info to diagnosis the problem. If the cutout works and the voltage is correct when rotation is wrong then go in and change the field wires. I have seen this before when shops are not told the rotation from the front of the generator. Karl

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Bill, my 1921 Pierce 5 ton truck has something like that on it. Can you post a picture from more of a distance. Karl

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