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Jim,
Also, if you have a spare oil pan, you can always do the stud removal program on the spare and then swap pans.
Peter
Jim,
With all due respect to Greg’s significant mechanical prowess, I offer these comments.
Liberal amounts of PB Blaster (two or three times, a few days in advance), a touch of heat to the tips of the studs and a GOOD Stud Pulling Socket, should do the trick to remove the studs without a break.
You will likely not do this again in your lifetime, so wear on the threaded part of the aluminum crankcase caused by hex-head screws / bolts is not really an issue.
Also, if you use your brain, after removing the studs, you will measure the depth of the blind holes in the crankcase and determine the thickness of the base of the oil pump.
If you then buy hex-head machine screws / bolts that are slightly shorter than your full depth, including pump base thickness and lock washers, you will not reach the blind end of the bolt hole and will not crack the crankcase from inserting and torquing too long of a bolt.
Finally, if you do this prep work, the oil pump will just go in like a charm.
Proper Project Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance (the Seven Ps for Success).
Cheers,
Peter
Karl,
Make sure that you use the hotels about which I sent you the info.
A Room Rate of $7.00 per night is hard to beat!
Perhaps, you should post a photo of the brochure for the hotel. 
Peter
Karl,
In case it was not clear from my posting above, Arthur J. Chanter was the Vice President / General Manager of the PAMCC and he was the Toastmaster for the PAMCC event held at The Plaza Hotel in Manhattan on 5 January, 1929.
A Pierce-Arrow Class luncheon in a Pierce-Arrow Class hotel in Manhattan.
Peter
Jim,
Years ago, I did as George suggested above.
It makes a HUGE difference in properly placing the oil pump on my Series 80.
I have great oil pressure and do not leak a drop of engine oil.
I don’t recall exactly, but I believe that I made my own gasket from a standard gasket material package that I bought at NAPA.
Peter
Studebaker acquired Pierce in 1928 through a stock transfer. Pierce remained ostensibly independent with its own general manager, Arthur J. Chanter, though Erskine named himself president. More importantly, Buffalo and not South Bend would retain responsibility for developing new Pierce-Arrows.
Charles,
To make a photo smaller, I open it with PREVIEW (maybe just a MAC program?) and then go to the dropdown that offers “RESIZE.””
I then change one of the numbers to be at approximately 40% of the original and the program automatically proportionately sizes it.
It is not a big deal.
Peter
“
Charles,
I understand that your truck has the same engine in it as Series 80 cars.
That is useful to know when it comes to hunting for parts.
Oh, does it have a cast-iron or an aluminum cylinder head?
If cast-iron, then Series 80, if aluminum, then Series 81.
Peter
Charles,
Is this what you want?
Is it for a Series 81?
Search on eBay under: Pierce Arrow Emblem.
Peter
Patrick,
The neck is supposed to be nickel.
You can remove it by heating the neck with a torch to melt the solder and then pull it.
Get it plated and reverse the process.
Others will chime in on the proper way to do it.
Peter
Tony,
Excellent comment about the competence of a Plater.
Peter
Syd,
To add to Greg’s comments, chrome is also more durable than is nickel, as every time you polish your beautiful nickel, you remove some of it.
Not so with chrome.
However, Syd, this current line of commentary has no relation to your original question.
Yes, you need a good, multiple layer, well polished copper base.
Peter
Personally, I like the upper right photo on the cover the most, but that is a personal bias for P-A cars with left & right-side taillights with “WET”” vs. “”DRY”” plates.
The calendars are GREAT.
i bought a few.
Thank you Dave & Diana.
“
Syd,
My plating guy told me long ago that to chrome plate something, first in needed to be plated in copper, then in nickel and then in chrome because chrome does not adhere to copper, but does to nickel.
My Series 80 is a nickel car and was previously plated in chrome.
i returned it to the nickel car that it was when it first left the PAMCC.
Peter
Gents,
The Seller from whom I purchased the 21W LED bulbs, one of which was in the Driver’s side headlight in the photo, tells me that his group is currently testing a High Brightness BA15S LED (15mm bayonet mount) bulb.
He further stated that I should check with him in 6-weeks to determine if it is in production.
So Dr. David and Mr. Bob, you are incorrect about the placement of the LED bulb, but the passenger side headlight has a 32W / 35W (?) incandescent bulb, while the Driver side HAD the 21W LED.
They seemed equally bright, so a higher wattage LED might be wonderful.
I like Richard’s idea of 55W incandescent (?) bulbs, if they are reasonably priced.
Also, I rewired my Series 80, so I have no fear about melting the wire.
I have melted wire on one or two moderns and had to upgrade the headlight wiring when I installed 85W / 100W low / high beams and 100w high beams.
I can easily blind oncoming cars if they don’t shutdown their highs, and I can Definitely Illuminate country roads at night.
Peter
Which is the LED?
Bob,
6-V LED bulbs are not brighter than their equivalent wattage incandescent counterparts.
I bought a pair of 21-W LED bulbs, installed them and was underwhelmed at their relative brightness.
They produced the same light output as the incandescent 21-W bulbs.
Their supposed main advantage is that they draw less current, but that is not an issue if the electrical system on you Pierce-Arrow works correctly.
I installed a 6V to 12V converter to a female cigarette lighter connector back in the days of needing a GPS for touring (before iPhones / Google MAPS / WAZE).
You may be able to connect it to your 12V headlight electrical wire run into the fusebox and out to the headlights.
I am not sophisticated in 6V to 12V conversion, so I could be incorrect about the fusebox concept.
Maybe you need to have in-line fuses connected after the fusebox, but I DK.
Also, as I recall, the 6V to 12V converter has TWO leads, while my Series 80 has but ONE lead to each electrical connection because it is a Positive Ground / Earth automobile.
I believe that Positive Ground electrics are true for ALL Pierce-Arrow motorcars.
Have fun and I look forward to your report on the matter.
Peter
Ed,
Copy the total URL, paste it into the space below and then remove the following: https://
If it starts with www the website will put in the https:// – as I did for this reply.
Peter
Gents,
That Pierce even has RUNNING BOARD LIGHTS, per another Message Thread!
Peter
Tony,
I didn’t include the $20 core charge in my calculations, so to my number you can add another $20.00 because there is no core charge from Optima Jim.
You are a Good Man Tony, no apologies required.
You are merely thinking of other PAS members in immediate need of a starting battery.
Cheers,
Peter
