[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Randy,

BTW, brass needs plating while SS just needs polishing and is near identical to nickel in color.

I can also provide a model for your machinist, if you wish.

Peter

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Randy,

Great! I suggest that if you make a project, solicit for pre-paid buyers.

Finding P-A radiator caps is tough, so you should have a good response.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

The problem with acquiring a correct cap is that you have to BUY IT to see if it fits.

Sellers on eBay are often intentionally or unintentionally dumb about offering correct measurements.

In addition, 9/10 of the eBay finds that I made required re-plating.

Paul Jacobs from Buffalo is the Gent who made the Delrin cap.

I believe that he has none and has no plans to launch another run.

Many of us do limited item projects, but those are really not money making efforts.

Also, I would never drill an original bakelite covered P-A cap for a Moto Meter, as that cap is near impossible to find, as is the original nickel plated Parking cap.

You just have to keep hunting.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Randy and Ken,

I have a number of nicely plated Dog-Bone style radiator caps WITH working Moto Meters, all of which the fit the Series 80 radiator.

The Pierce-Arrow radiator neck is different (female threads / big size) and it is extremely hard to find caps that fit.

If either of you, or anyone else viewing this discussion, has interest in what I can offer, send me an email and I will send you photos.

Peter

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Ken,

What do you mean?

I cannot add to the listings given me by Bernie Weis.

Peter

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David,

That is one RARE piece.

It must have cost a King’s ransom.

I also know someone who would likely pay a bunch for it.

Peter

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Ken,

Oh well, I gave it a shot.

I defer to Greg on this matter, but if you have an adjustment on the cap, try it.

If you have a cracked float, feel free to be in touch.

The way to check the float for leaks is to pull it and shake it.

Is should be empty, if not, OOPS!

Soldering them is a chore (and potentially dangerous – POP), which is why I bought up six (6) other Stromberg carbs, cheap, just for the floats.

If the float is loaded with fuel, you can pull it, let it sit around on a sunny window frame for a week or so and then either use Hirsch Fuel Tank Sealer (not that great without prepping the surface as you would the tank) or I was told, painting the surface with epoxy, which I was also told was gasoline resistant.

I have not had that problem in years (lucky me).

Also, I am told that the Classic Carb people out of Arizona, take the floats, cut off the top and bottom and then insert a piece of Nitrile, so no more leaking and you retain the correct top and bottom for proper fit in the float tank.

Peter

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I would also think that with so few paved roads and no run-off, the driver had a better view of where the road ended and the ditch began on the right side, thus increasing safety by not heading into a ditch.

I remember driving my lefthand drive Series 80 down country roads at the Lexington Meet and being worried about those ditches!

I can just imagine what it was like in 1925.

EEK!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Charles,

This is all I can find on P-A trucks with “1928”

S/N range = 1001001 – 1001580, Model = FA, Tons = ¾ – 3, year =“1928″- number produced = 580?

# Recorded = 5, #Existing = 4

This is all very general, but that is all the information that seems to be available.

Peter

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Ken,

As I said in the other posting, there is no car listed, but the engine numbers on either side indicate it was a 1926 Series 80 engine.

Peter

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Ken,

There is no listing for that specific number, but those on either side of it are 1926 Series 80 cars.

Peter

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Ken,

BTW, when I first took my carb off to futz with it, I removed all of the hex nuts that I could and bought a box of red fiber washers to use when I reinstalled the nuts.

The carb did not leak in those locations before I removed them, nor now, but I the good compulsive tinkering side to my personality forced me to do it.

Peter

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Ken,

If the fuel is leaking from the center assembly on the top of the lid for the float tank, then you need to adjust the center screw / shaft (needle) on that lid, as it controls the needle shutoff for the float tank.

The car likely runs poorly because you are likely flooding the engine because of this necessary adjustment.

If the needle does not fit into the fuel shutoff hole soon enough, the float tank overfills and leaks through the top (and into the air intake and thus, the carb).

My Stromberg O-3 would drip fuel from the bottom of the air-horn.

If it shuts of too soon, there will be insufficient fuel in the float tank.

The method for adjustment of the shaft is to remove the acorn nut that fits over the center shaft / needle on the top (the acorn nut has a hole in each side), then notice that there is a tiny, tiny nut (or two) that lock the shaft in place.

On the top of the shaft there its a small slot for a small screwdriver.

You need to experiment, but the concept is to loosen the nut(s), hold them in a fixed position and screw in the shaft a tad.

Run the car and see if it leaks. If so, it needs another partial turn, unlock the nuts, turn, lock and repeat trial, repeat, repeat, repeat until satisfied.

I recall that I did this adjustment its the car running and tested the function by revving the engine to determine if it was bogging (flooding) or hesitating (too little fuel).

I believe that I first loosened the needle shaft until it flowed from the top. I then tightened the needle shaft until the flow stopped.

When you believe that you have it in the correct position, with the screwdriver IN PLACE, tighten the tiny nut to lock the needle in place.

Then run it more and you may find that you need to re-do it, because invariably the needle shaft will move a touch when you tighten the locking nuts.

Be patient and resolute.

Here is another hint: On the end of my float bowl there is a hex nut midway up the bowl. This nut is a fuel level gauge. If your car is on the flat with the carb properly adjusted, when you remove that nut, there should be no fuel dripping.

NOTE: If the needle shaft shuts off the fuel too early, the float bowl will not fill sufficiently to drip anywhere and you will have insufficient fuel flow to power the car.

Of course, all of this is done with the float installed.

Finally, NO SMOKING while doing this adjustment. HA!

I hope that this helps.

Peter

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Ladies and Gents,

Hershey is always an old car parts overload!

Great weather and better friends who sat around telling stories (lies) and more stories (more, better lies – HA!).

What a Crew!

Thanks to Liz for organizing many things, including the very nice P-A calendar, and to Dave for everything else Pierce-Arrow.

A few very nice P-A cars for sale. I hope they ALL sold.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I believe that the Series 80 carb, although a Stromberg is not marked in the side as with most Stromberg updraft carbs.

I believe that it was made specifically by Stromberg for the PAMCC.

I run a Stromberg O-3 on my Series 80.

It is what PAMCC ran on the Series 81.

The O-3 and all of the other Stromberg carbs that I purchased to ransack for the floats, are all clearly marked cast with the model number on the side, at the bottom of the throat.

The model number (M-1, L-1, O-2) is on the side that faces out when the carb is mounted.

I guess it was done that way so that any mechanic could identify it, without removing the carb.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

That “pin”” looks a lot like a Stromberg carburetor fuel adjustment knob.

I left an assortment of those at Hershey and either Karl Krouch or Wayne & Marc Hancock have them.

I left a half-ton of assorted odds-and-ends for whomever would truck it home.

It also does not look like it would be too difficult to construct from a mild steel hex head bolt and a press fit stud that was machined to a point.”

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

The description points out a number of functions on the car that are disconnected / non-functional / missing, including, but not limited to reproduction plastic (now hazed) headlight lenses.

It is a lovely P-A (color combo questionable – actually two-tone), but $129.9K is a bunch of $$$ for the car.

I believe that the description indicates the existence of only two (2) of that body style.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Ken,

I forgot to post the telephone number for Classic Carb: (602) 971-3300.

Give them a call.

I know that they did a carb or two for Wayne Hancock.

I believe that the rebuild cost about $600.00, but it now runs like a champ.

Peter

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Ken,

You have the Series 80 carb on your car and I DK on adjustments with that carb, as I run a Series 81 Stromberg O-3 on my Series 80.

It sounds like it is running too rich (more fuel than needed – maybe causing the moisture).

You can do the adjustment and then rev the engine and see where it increases engine speed without a POP and without it bogging down.

Then, if you decide to send it for rebuild, these are the guys to do the rebuild.

Classic Carburetors

3217 East Shea Boulevard

#440

Phoenix, Arizona 85028

Peter

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Jack,

Here it is.

Peter

[Author]

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