[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Pretty car!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

It is important to note that one should never use water alone for any prolonged period. You always need something to keep the corrosion down to a minimum.

As far as tap water versus distilled water, you run the risk with tap water of introducing minerals and sediment into the system. This point is clearly made in Greg’s article.

Also stated in the article, which relates to Personal Computer Cooling Systems, the writer in general DOES NOT recommend the use of tap water, but DOES highly recommend the use of distilled water.

Apropos of pH levels, you need to add what you would normally add to any water that you put in you cooling system. Oh yeah, you also need to do periodic maintenance on your cooling system. Distilled water is not toxic to automotive cooling systems and as Greg points out, to each his / her own.

Maybe you warm weather climate guys never flush your systems, but I do it twice per year. When I commission my Series 80 in the spring I drain the antifreeze that sat in the system over the winter to keep it from freezing. I flush the system with tap water and install NAPA Cool with distilled water.

Then in the fall, I drain the NAPA Cool / distilled water solution and replace it with antifreeze. Repeat each spring and fall.

http://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-i/

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Richard,

Regarding uploading pics, are you following Paul’s rules shown at the bottom of this page, particularly with the filename (not file name)?

Just curious.

Perhaps, you need to contact the Webmaster, Paul Morris, on this matter.

Happy uploading.

Peter

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Ed,

There is no listing of ownership years for Mr. Hersey.

The previous or subsequent owner was Steve Beilstein, but there are no years of ownership listed for him either.

Peter

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I am not sure how ZDDP got into this discussion, but here it is.

If you run a Diesel Grade oil there is not problem (higher in ZDDP).

Also, the ZDDP controversy relates to more modern “Classic” cars, those that run pushrods / flat tappets and not roller cam tappets as on Pierce-Arrow motorcars.

By more modern “Classics”I mean 50s & 60s American Iron, particularly high output vehicles like the Mustang and Chevelle.

This topic has been beaten to death more than a few times.

Run a good grade of Diesel Grade (CJ4) oil, like Shell Rotella or Castrol GTX and you will be fine, but I repeat myself.

Paul is correct in his comments, but others worry and CCA profits from their unnecessary concern.

However, if you must, you can spend extra money and run the CCCA motor oil or you can buy a ZDDP additive at your local auto parts store for $10+.

Even if you do run the “high priced spread” it is short change considering the general cost of owning and maintaining a Pierce-Arrow motorcar, and we all get to squander our money how we wish. If we didn’t have that freedom, we would all drive soulless Toyota Corolla cars.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hey Gents,

So if one of you is up for the project, check out the Emporium, as I have a very nice steering wheel for that basket case!

Peter

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Thanks Terry,

This is all good grist for the judging rules mill and it will be discussed soon.

Also, thanks Tony.

Your sage, point-and-shot wisdom is always welcome and most often funny.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Robert,

You might want to put this on the Emporium under the LEADS section.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Tony,

The wheels are in motion, and the topic will most likely be discussed by the Board of Directors at the Buffalo Meet, BEFORE the Show and judging.

I am a bit tentative (most likely) only because I no longer create the Agenda.

However, the initial discussions have begun.

Tony you had better be there to put in your two-cents!

Right, two-cents, HA!

I think that 20-years is good, but others will chime in with their opinions on the matter.

I will make sure to invite Bob to the Meeting.

Peter

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George,

Yeah, like $28K too high.

Peter

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Mark,

It is a stunning and elegant automobile and perhaps the window partition behind the driver allowed for less wind to blow in when touring, thus reducing the potential for the top to act as a drogue.

The “California” type top does have sliding glass windows in the back.

Also, as Paul pointed out, some P-A owners took their vehicles to a P-S service station, or shipped them to Buffalo, in the fall and had the Touring Body removed and replaced with an Enclosed Body for the winter. Of course, the P-A people would store the unused body for the season.

I guess that those individuals had “beaucoup de bucks.”

You are doing a good deal of research and are teaching as much as you are learning.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Paul,

I thought that the “California” type top was a removable hardtop that made a touring a closed car.

Rodney Floury has one and I attach a pic for review!

What kind of chute do you think that Victoria top is?

I bet it makes for either a very slow, Royal stroll or a very buffeted experience at speed.

Peter

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Paul,

Thanks for the diagram.

I figured that the Vestibule Landau would be like the Woodrow Wilson Pierce-Arrow, but with a Landau passenger section.

Your diagram confirms my suspicions.

Now, what the heck is the proper name of the 1917 pictured above?

Is it in fact a Victoria Top, as described?

I always thought that a Victoria Top had a closed passenger section.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

BTW, even the GODS make errors.

I am are that someone will ask Bernie about this matter when we see him this summer in Buffalo.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Paul and David,

On Bernie’s tables of known P-A cars, the following is listed for this motorcar: 48-B-42 X, 15431 ( Car #), B4-4183 ( Engine #), Vestibule Landau (Style / Model), Rovan, Inc. (Owner), 4921 East U. S. 12, Michigan City, IN 46360 (address).

This particular table was last updated in 2012, but who knows if this particular info was updated at that time.

I don’t know what it proves, save for Bernie was consistent in calling this Pierce-Arrow a Vestibule Landau, even though Paul does have a point.

Perhaps, we need a pic of the car “all buttoned up?””

Peter”

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Bill,

So you have that bearing fit around the steering shaft and inside the steering column tube, eh?

What a good way to eliminate wheel jiggle.

Peter

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John,

It is my pleasure to stumble on to an opportunity that aides the members of the PAS.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Ric,

I think that i got my Series 80 Parts Catalog from Bernie Weis, but I do not know if he is still selling it or if it is now a part of the AACA Library / Pierce-Arrow collection.

Most of our old print material went there a few years ago.

You can contact Chris Ritter, the AACA Librarian via email at: [email protected].

Peter

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William,

BTW, nice pic of your P-A in the HCCA magazine.

It is quite sweet.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Ric,

If you have interest, i have a supply of 20s – 30s socket / wire connectors that may have springs inside them.

If you can’t find a suitable spring, be in touch with me via my email address and I will search for them and send you one if i find one.

However, any good spring will do.

Be careful about replacing the dashboard socket, as that one is special.

Take your time in getting your Series 80 to be “perfect,” as these things take time.

I suffered over the electrics in mine because it was wired incorrectly 50-years ago and it was a BEAR to get it correct.

Do you have both the Pierce-Arrow wiring and Tune-Up Guide (1913 – 1938) AND the Pierce-Arrow Parts Catalog for the Series 80 Passenger Car?

If not, you should acquire them as they are invaluable in many ways.

I spent many hours pouring over those books to get things straightened out.

The first rule in getting things straight is DO NOT ASSUME that the prior owner did it correctly.

Start from scratch, wire by wire.

Peter

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