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These is a set ( #251612527923) on Ebay. It says

Brand new set of high speed ring and pinion gears for 1930’s era Pierce Arrow cars. Manufactured by Orf Corp in Michigan. The ratio is 3.85 / 1. 54 teeth on the ring gear 14 teeth on the pinion.

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Maybe it is a dual purpose motor and anchor?

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I would recommend not using anything with detergent in. I have seen modern transmission fluid strip the clutch linings off overnight using detergent fluid vs non detergent. In auto transmissions

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I have used plumbers’ red rubber sheet. It is in 6×6 sheets, as thin as 1/16″, but is available in thicker sheets.

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Here is one on regulators

http://www.ruiter.ca/mc/info/PDFs/1R-116.pdf

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Here is a site with more info than you may need, but it has a lot of good info.

http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/delco_remy_generator.pdf

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I looked for 6 volt tires and couldn’t find any. I did come up with 2 other potential options.

1 At http://www.powerstream.com they have a DC/DC Boost converter that allows you to run 12 Volt items off of 6 Volts. Might be handy for other things.

Part# PSTC-0624012. Lists for $298

2. Maybe there is a solar charger?

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Due to my lack of knowledge about invisible things (electricity) I always check and clean any ground in the circuit. Sitting can let corrosion start.

I don’t think your car has a cut out. They were a common problem on my Model A until I went the diode route.

Here is some data I got off of restorecarsclassifieds.com

TWELVE, MODELS 1602, 3 (1936); 1702, 3 (1937)

OWEN-DYNETO STARTER & GENERATOR, DELCO-REMY IGNITION PIERCE ARROW

GENERATOR:—Model CO-1309. Armature No. 23691.

Air-cooled. Third brush control type with Battery

Charge Regulator (two-step charging rate).

Charging Rate Adjustment—Third brush shifted

through rack-and-pinion control by slotted adjusting

screw in commutator end plate. To adjust, turn

adjusting screw to right or clockwise to increase,

and to left or counter-clockwise to decrease charging

rate.

Maximum Charging Rate—32 amperes (cold), 8.0

volts, 1900 RPM., 25-30 MP.H.

Performance Data—Regulator Inoperative

Hot

Amps Volts RPM.

0 7.3 625

5 7.5 700

10 7.7 800

15 7.9 930

20 8.0 1100

25 8.0 1380

28 8.0 2000

Cold

Amps Volts RPM.

0 7.0. 580

5 …_ 7.2 630

10 7.5 700

15 7.7 _ 790

20 7.9 910

25 8.0 1080

30 8.0. 1380

32 8.0 1900

Rotation—Counter-clockwise at commutator end.

Brush Spring Tension—20-22 ozs. (main), 12-14 ozs.

(third).

Field Current,—3.5-3.7 amperes at 6.0 volts.

Motoring Current—16.7-18 amperes at 6.0 volts (Y2 ampere more if relay and regulator in circuit).

Field Fuse—5 ampere capacity in knurled plug in

side of regulator case.

Removal:—Generator cradle mounted on left front of

engine with fan belt drive (double Vee belt). To remove,

slack off drive belt, disconnect water pump

drive coupling, loosen mounting clamp band.

Belt Adjustment:—To adjust, loosen clamp bolt on

fan bracket, turn eccentric shaft spindle untU 10 lb.

puU on belt midway between puUeys causes 1″ deflection,

tighten clamp bolt. Additional range of

adjustment secured by taking bracket off engine

and moving bracket up until mounting bolts engage

lower holes.

CONTROL UNIT (RELAY-REGULATOR):—Mod. 40300.

Consists of Cutout Relay and Battery Charge Regulator

in a single case on the generator field frame.

See article in Electrical Equipment Section for

complete data on Battery Charge Regulator.

Cutout Relay

Cuts In—6.8-7.2 volts, 600 RPM., 8 MP.H.

Cats Oat—0-2.5 amperes discharge current.

Contact Gap—.030-.032″.

Air Gap—.020-.025″ with contacts closed.

Battery Charge Regulator

Setting—8.2 volts (cold), 7.8 volts (hot)—contact

opening point.

Regulator Resistance—1.

http://restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=3354

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I guess these came from Mark Huston. Thanks for putting them up.

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Bill,

Please add me to the list.

Thank you for your effort.

Bill

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Well I might as well ask, what kind of issues are there with EE-3’s since that is what I have?

Bill

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Here is 3

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here is 2

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Here are Richard’s 3 photos

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Richard,

I will try for you. [email protected]

Bill

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You may have to resurface this plate if grooved or pitted.

Finally, here is the mechanism once the plate is removed.

This should be as far as you need to go to replace the friction disc once relined.

Assembly is the reverse of these steps, but there is a gasket between the rear cover and the main body.

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Here is the second friction disc. The other one is in the rear cover plate which can be seen in picture #3 on the ground about 2 o’clock

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Here is disc. Mine is woven and has a seam in it.

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Here is the friction disc. The shorter boss (where my thumb is) is towards the rear of the car.

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Here is the spring

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