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Viewing 20 posts - 461 through 480 (of 483 total)
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  • in reply to: Gas suction problem(?) #394333

    Hi Syd, stalled 8-10 times, what a nightmare. I suggest you start and run the car and while parked, slowly increasing the throttle while someone watches the fuel bowl. If it is pinholes in the fuel line, the bubbles should increase with RPM’s as fuel flow tries to increase, the fuel actually chokes down and the engine slowly drops in rpm and dies-running smoothly as it does. If that happens, inspect the fuel tank and system as Greg suggests. If someone is on throttle and as the car dies, it bucks, or surges or perhaps bubbles are less evident in the bowl, it may be a carb issue, such as sticking float, etc.

    Best of luck troubleshooting-John

    in reply to: Cast iron repair recommendations #394317

    Rich, thanks for posting-good to hear your car is close to fixed. I loved it at Temecula.

    in reply to: coolant in a 12 #394305

    Yep-I looked back and see the correct system is 2-1/4, not 2-1/2.-thanks Bob. It sure is interesting and important to mindful that such a modest 1/4″ increase of diameter at this size pipe represents a 25%+ addition in cross area.”

    in reply to: coolant in a 12 #412159

    I’m glad you are running cooler! At first glance, changing from 2″ to 2 1/2″ pipe may seem insignificant, but it actually increased the cross sectional area of the exhaust passage by 50%. John

    in reply to: 1931 Model 42 Mosquito Sprayer #394298

    Thanks for the update Bill. Sounds like your cars is all set!

    in reply to: 1931 Model 42 Mosquito Sprayer #394288

    Bill, thanks for adding this info on the exhaust valve. This a sequence I propose happened with your engine for your consideration:

    a)The rings on cylinder 4/5 slowly degenerated or perhaps didn’t seat properly when placed in service with the last ring work, eventually allowing significant amounts of oil into the combustion chamber 4/5, and of course, giving lots of blue smoke.

    b)The oil in the combustion caked on the exhaust valve in 4 to the point the valve was lifted, giving poor compression, thus poor combustion, allowing oil in its liquid state to foul the plug. I bet 5 was heading the same way.

    So, if the exhaust valves are cleaned/reseated and the engine placed into service , combustion will be restored, performance will improve and rpm’s will increase (for a while) but the car will eventually return to b) in the sequence above. I believe the rings are the root of your troubles as Greg L has indicated and perhaps that is part of the block work you indicate for the next few days.

    I wish you the best on the weekend project!

    John W.

    in reply to: 1931 Model 42 Mosquito Sprayer #394279

    This is a very informative discussion.-thanks all. Bill, just curious, did this car have solid oil pressure when hot, at idle? If so, it would be interesting to see the outcome of a cheaper surgical fix like rings as Greg suggests and perhaps a valve job as long as the heads off, in lieu of a complete tear down.

    please update us on your findings and decided path-sharing this is much appreciated.

    john

    in reply to: Blow-outs #394253

    This info is most helpful, thank you all for putting this string of posts together.

    in reply to: Ignition Coils for 1936-1938 #394238

    Bob, thanks for the update. Let us know if the new resistor does the trick!

    in reply to: coolant in a 12 #394218

    Doug, that is a nice looking car. Thanks for sharing the picture.

    in reply to: coolant in a 12 #412145

    Doug, I noticed in another post on this board that you are running a 1948 Buick muffler on this 12 cylinder car. 8 cylinder Buick for 1948 displaced 248 cu in. Although 6″ round input, it is hard to know what the inside the muffler looks like. Could you be getting an exhaust gas restriction and very modest back pressure condition that elevates while driving and reduces when the car is idling? That may explain the high temps while driving that calms down at idle. Just a thought.

    thanks

    Thanks

    in reply to: coolant in a 12 #394187

    Ed, the alcohol mix/temp change is amazing-keep us posted.

    thanks

    in reply to: Great Meet! #394164

    10-4, it was a great meet and it was nice to see all the participants again.

    in reply to: 1934 through 1938 Vent window (trim) corners #394123

    If I understand correctly for two front windows, I owe you ($32.25 x 4)+$5.00SH=$134…. confirm and I will send you a check!

    thanks Bob

    in reply to: 1934 through 1938 Vent window (trim) corners #394084

    Please count me in-thanks Bob

    in reply to: Hints needed to verify identity of a 1936-37-38 chassis #394022

    Mr Baird, thanks for the contribution to this ducussion. Looks like a nice project-the engine looks very fresh!

    in reply to: Anyone with 1934-1935 P-A ? #393986

    Bob, your hood hinge rod trick is nifty, thanks for posting it. Have you ever replaced that rod with a stainless steel type? Seems like that rod and hinge is a rust haven and perhaps stainless could improve that at a small price.

    thanks again-John Wozney

    in reply to: 1934 ? What is it? #393841

    Thanks for putting this on here Ed. I couldn’t help but notice the tailpipe wasn’t well vented-we’ve all done this. Maybe we should Google “pierce arrow CO mishap”” and see what we find.

    peace”

    Brings back memories!-thanks Linnea

    in reply to: Movie car? #393736

    Susan and I feel Temecula was a fabulous meet. We offer a cyber “tip of the hat”” to all that organized it.-peace”

Viewing 20 posts - 461 through 480 (of 483 total)