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I can see that my caps have a few shallow dings which I think Ibcan gently press out from the inside. A small amount of filing to remove sharp spots, a little polishing and repainting the letteringvandcarrows, and I will be good if not perfect.

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Good points, Peter. I do not have a correct cap wrench yet; however I am cutting one out of hardwood which should suffice for now.

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Thanks, Philip. I have an extra cap and after studying it I can see you are right. Cosmetic flaws tend to look worse than they really are, anyway.

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Thanks for that interesting link.

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These are not made from sheet; they appear to be cast aluminum but I am not a casting specialist.

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I think you are right: perhaps lost-wax casting? Considering the detail of the lettering it’s a quality piece of work (after all it’s a Pierce-Arrow !). The only machining seems to be maybe the internal threading and removing the sprue.

I think I can dress mine up and make a considerable improvement; I am just eaten up with investigative curiosity.

Any idea of the letter colors? Most I have seen which are painted are either all black, or black letters with a red arrow.

RR

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Anyone have any ideas as to how these might have been manufactured? They almost appear to have been hot-pressed, rather than cast. If so that seems to be an advanced process for the 1920s and for a light-duty part.

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Not recommended to scrap Pierce-Arrow parts.

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The gasket material I mentioned earlier is a rubber-cork composition.

A web site atlanticgasket.com has some basic tech info.

Cork works fine and of course has been used for many years.

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The fan hub on the Series 80 is different from the later straight eight. Read Greg Long’s earlier post this topic: he is expert on the Series 80.

Thanks everyone for the information!

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The British believe in Hylomar; Permatex, Loctite, et al make similar sealants which do not completely set up, so the parts are less difficult to take apart. I use them and they work great.

There are also some modern gasket materials which are superior to cork and you can simply cut out a gasket with a hobby knife as Peter suggests. I hope this helps!

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I was shocked at the local parts house asking $39 plus tax for a tin drip pan, so I started considering alternatives.

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Got the fan apart after I returned from Kerrville. The bearings looked fine, but there was no oil, only grease. I cleaned everything up, put it back together, adjusted for minimal play, and put some 600W in. The fan seems fine now. The leather seal was not good but it did not throw any oil out. No doubt it would if I put enough in.

I would like to convert to sealed bearings; the housing ID and shaft OD do not seem to be standard for a bearing I could find in a catalog, so perhaps some machine work is needed? If anyone has done this and would like to describe how they accomplished this, feel free to comment.

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Just thought I would mention that, in general, excessive crankcase pressure can cause increased leaking.

That said, some drip is normal. I also have drip pans. Flower shops sometimes have thin plastic pans to catch drips under flowers when they are watered; also used cafeteria trays at the local flea market make great pans.

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Maryland Heights; Sheraton Westport Plaza June 6-10.

There is a lot to do in St. Louis, the meet area has nice rural, low-traffic roads. Should be a wonderful time.

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I had a great time at my FIRST Pierce-Arrow meet! Thanks to everyone who worked so hard to make it great: can’t wait for next year! It was special to see so many of the very best at one time. I met so many new friends!

Thanks also to Merlin and Jane Smith for my first ride in a rumble seat!

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My Car’s frame is a little rough; I found a company that makes replacements and I may do that rather than try to smooth it up. Also there is not a rubber gasket, but I found glass mounting tape in one of the antique car catalogs.

I want to know all I can before I start taking something apart that I am unfamiliar with. Mine is painted, and I don’t know if it should be painted or chromed, things like that I have to learn. I understand and agree with the laminated glass issue.

My state does not require an inspection on antique-plated cars, which is a break.

Thanks for the information!

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Great Car; I just got a ’27 2-door and need to learn everything. Did you have to do anything with the windshield? I am trying to learn how the glass fits in, etc.

RR

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Made a photo this afternoon for you:

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Fellows, I have had a little time to examine my Car and the Restoration Supply catalog, and I can see that the parts you mention will do the job. I need to do a little cleanup of the channels where these rubber strips fit, maybe a little black paint also, and I think I will have a nice little improvement to my Car.

Thanks for the information and advice!

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