I have used Intercity Lines, whose price was slightly less than FedEx, and was quite satisfied as to safety and handling. It was during the busy fall season, though, and I had to wait a few weeks for them to pick up the car.
Vincent,
What a story! You are an inspiration to those of us who get bogged down with mere engine rebuilds or fender repairs!
Regarding hearse serial numbers, I recently obtained some parts that were auctioned from a parted out 836A P-A hearse. It’s frame number was 6033 (don’t remember if it was a Henney).
Best of luck on your project.
Bob Jacobsen
Hello Mika,
Adding to Chris Diekman’s advice on the cooling system, some of us put a temporary “filter” at the top end of the upper radiator hose before starting the engine the first time. You can cut about 8 inches of the foot of nylon pantyhose or similar material, insert the toe into the radiator inlet, leaving about an inch showing, which you wrap over the pipe before putting the hose back on. There are permanent filters available to install in the hose itself (cut into 2 sections and clamp the filter in) if you keep getting stuff out.
Also, I would think twice about removing the side plate unless you want to risk breaking off rusted attaching bolts and spending hours drilling them out. I tore down my ’33 and broke 6 bolts, and made a fixture to accurately drill the remains out. Still had to install 2 heli-coils for new threads in 2 holes. Then installed stainless steel bolts.
However, it is VERY important that the side plate (water jacket)have the internal baffle intact and not rusted out. The baffle is an internal plate that runs the entire length of the water jacket that forms a cavity that holds the water and shoots it through nine vertical slots through the spaces between the cylinders, and directs it to the valve seat areas, the hottest points in the engine. You can remove the oil cooler and look in the hole to see if at least the baffle is intact in that area. If not, get a new one or all the cool water will go to cylinder #4!
Also, if you ever have to rebuild the engine, my advice is not to install valve seats if not absolutely necessary for other reasons (cracks, etc.) Mine started popping out after 25 years. Big pain.
Good luck on your project!
Bob Jacobsen (’33 sedan, ’34 convertible)
Steve,
Why am I at the computer on Fri. nite and not at the local pub?
Anyway, the Conn. dealers listed in a 1918 sales catalog are:
S.A. Miner, 294 Pearl St., Hartford, and
The Geo. B. Wuestefeld Co., 192 York St., New Haven.
Go see what’s in the attics…
Cheers,
Bob Jacobsen
The serial plates (as well as Delco and Owen-Dyneto generator nameplates, Purolator oil filter decals, Pines (Sylphon) thermostat nameplate, and P-A metal service tag) are made by the Southern California Region of the Classic Car Club of America. They are very reasonable and great quality. Contact Larry Symons, 818-704-9434 (Fax 818-887-1602) or email larrysymons@hotmail.com for an illustrated list or orders.
Bob Jacobsen
The wire type is shown in the parts book and factory photos…
Bob
Hi Derek,
1934 and 1935 (including 836A) used small spark plugs in cast iron heads. 1933 and earlier used large plugs.
Here is some other info to help identify heads:
1933 (and all later except possibly an 836A) had a tapped hole in the left side of the head, about 15" from front, to mount the oil cooler.
1932 and earlier did not have this hole.
1929 (only) had 2 holes to mount the oil filter on the left side near the front.
1929 thru 1935 had a raised water outlet, about 1.75" above the top surface, 1936-38 aluminum heads did not, so they look quite different.
All heads had a number stamped on the flange surface of the water outlet, but over the years they get machined or rusted off. The correct number for your car is #6 (140hp).
A 1933 head (and ’34-’35 836A) will give a little more hp on your engine (145), a 1936 the most (150), ’29-’32 a little less (132-135).
If the crack is at the base of the water outlet (typical) or some other non-critical area, it can be loc-stitched with threaded tapered interlocking plugs. I ran my ’33 for years with this type of repair.
Welding is a tricky business, but some can do it, raising and lowering the temp of the whole head slowly over a day each way.
Hope this helps.
Bob Jacobsen
