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That’s how I did mine twenty five years ago, still looks good.
UU-2 & UUR- 2 cars are totally different. The 2 is a much better carb. There are no less than five different castings for the top portion and three different bodies on the UU-2. Most people don’t have the correct set up on their car, as many changes are usually made over the years. I would estimate only ten percent of the carbs on all the PA cars are correct for year and application. Most cars do t run anywhere near their potential due to incorrect set up.
Call John Cislak, you should have a UU-2 carb, with I believe a small choke horn set up, most cars have been modified over the years, so it’s best to figure out what you have on the car, what the car came with, and what will work bet today. Exhaust manifolds, intake manifolds, and air filter systems should also be checked out to be sure they are correct, very often they are not. Es
Interestingly, you are better off with a correct year radio head, and a late model receiver. Every year they made huge progress in tuners, ………..it’s a long story…….., but the head from 1931-1933 will fit a tuner from 1938. Is ten times better than the early unit. I purchased several late style receivers to use on my early cars, thus I have one radio head and two receivers for each car. Ed
Yes, the Dodge/Chrysler dealership connection MAYBE the collection we visited at the Gilmore Gathering about five years ago that had the soda shop and DeSoto cars……..it’s local to that collection and makes sense. I have emailed several members who contacted me about the car. I passed on it twice, about four and three years ago. I do not wish to put a opinion on the car in public. I passed on it. Hopefully we get a new member out of the sale. Ed
If this is the brown sedan that was for sale a while back, I am familiar with the car. It was in Michigan as I recall. I had extensive photos and history on the car at the time. I passed on it. The new owner may or probably will be a member, so I shall say I thought the car needed a lot of sorting and effort to make it a reliable driver. What was the selling price?
Dave, post a link please.
I agree with Bob on the 1703. I have never seen a Pierce with a correct pre war hitch on it. I have seen photos of commercially available ones in advertisements. On my car after extensive contemplation………fifteen years, I am going to make a setup that basically goes where the current bumper brackets attach, and go under to the frame also. Just grabbing on to the rear frame horns will NOT work. The frame will flex and bend, and crack. I have seen this from first hand experience on a car that was extensively used to tow some type of trailer pre and post war. The rear frame section on the last series cars look like a modern dump truck, boxed in and X braced, but it still is more flexible than one would imagine.
Philco. I have several. I’m in Florida right now so I can’t provide a photo.
I’m running the stock set up. It works great. I can provide you an extra vacuum canister and brake check valve if you need it
Just to add to the confusion, back in the 1970’s there was a rumor the damaged car was in a back yard of a home in West Springfield Massachusetts. Since that was only ten miles from me, I attempt d to track down this legendary car. After a few years I determined it was a very rusty and incomplete factory production eight from 1935. It went to the local scrapp yard after it was picked over in the late 1960’s. This was confirmed by no less than three different local car people.
The Pierce arrow silver arrow is destined for a collection in southern Florida. It’s my understanding that it will be restored soon. I have received this information third hand. I believe it is accurate
There are MANY Pierce cars with custom tags on them THAT ARE NOT CUSTOM cars. I recommend you hire an expert to properly identify ANY open, custom, or twelve. There are LOTS OF MODIFIED, MISIDENTIFIED, and just plain altered cars for profit done since the sixties. I will claim to know and have studied the subject in detail. I have some factory LeBaron paperwork and info no one else has, or has seen, and I will pass it on when I can no longer protect it properly. Be careful when buying any car Pierce or otherwise.
I would crank it with the main coil wire off till it builds oil pressure on the guage, then just fire it off. It should be fine. The series 54 is my favorite of the 366 cid cars. They steer, stop, and shift like a car from the 60’s. I’m quite sure you will enjoy it. Post a few photos please.
I first learned about this car back in the 80’s and it took me almost twenty years to locate it. I have the history from new, and photos of the car in the late forties and early fifties in Connecticut.
Sold to a dealer / restorer in Canada. Expectt he will resell it to a customer and restore it for them. I’m quite sure we will see it on the show circuit in the next year or two.
I’ll take Thursday 3-5 Ed
If you have an engine crank handle, it’s easier to just do them one at a time watching the firing order. I can’t imagine doing two or three at a time is much of a time saving advantage. We usually go through the entire process three times to be sure we are accurate.
A factory showroom, the Sha of Iran Brun town car was displayed in the window here when new. There are photos of the car in the building from 1930.
John Cislak confirmed this is a 29 Coupe turning into a street rod. The car was listed for sale on the net recently, so it shouldn’t be too hard to figure out which one it was. The ebay post is not clear, and the 15 k is for the engine and transmission. NOT the entire drive line and chassis. I think the car was for sale at 18 grand if memory serves me, so the street rod guy must be trying to recoup his investment and end up with a body and cash in hand. nOT an easy thing to do. Engine oil pressure show decent pressure cold, If I were buying it I would want to see it hot, after running at least half an hour.
