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I did not send it. AOL accounts were boosted. Sorry, it is not related to my computer, it’s an AOL issue. Ed.

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Richard I sent you two direct emails. My cell phone is area code 413-530-5712. I’m at the Amelia Island show right now but call me anytime.

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Bob the wheels are one year only and just about impossible to find. I have a decent skills at finding cars and parts but I haven’t been able to come up with a spare set of wheels. And on the $20,000 price tag to chrome wire wheels today when you’re already have a set, the dollars add up very fast.

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Either black or green is correct. The under hood appearance of the green motor looks and shows better than the black engine. If you’re going to compete looking for a trophy the contrast makes the engine compartment much more attractive. I believe in doing everything as correct as possible. But I also believe in taking advantage of any aesthetic improvement you can make without destroying authenticity. I also think the green engine improves resale value just due to the contrast under the hood.

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Richard I would do your engines in the green. Contact member George House his 1929 coupe has 10,000 original miles on it. It would be a great guide to use as a correct example while you restore your car.

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There was a very nice Hupp at the RM sale in Arizona. Are usually don’t spend much time looking at low-end or mid range cars. The Hupp had such a nice styling I spent 10 minutes looking it over. If I remember correctly it was a decent restoration nothing over-the-top and it brought 60 grand.

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I like to sand blast the water neck and then fill the pits with either weld or JB Weld and then sand and paint. No sealing issues and you don’t have to over tighten the clamps.

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Rich, send me a direct email, I’ll give you all the info. The car isn’t mine, belongs to a friend. My best, Ed.

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Please do not post or share the photos outside the PAS. Thanks, Ed.

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Last one. Keep looking…….THEY ARE STILL OUT THERE!

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Interestingly, it was thought that the car was a 1933.

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Another.

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Another.

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Another shot.

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I have looked at and handeled a lot of Pierce wheels, in the hundreds. I have only seen this happen once, on a very rusty wheel. I have seen this failure on other cars, both times on a Dusenberg going down the road. 18 inch five lug and six lug wheels are very difficult to find in any condition. On my 31 series 42 I am going to convert the wheels to drop center and get rid of the snap rings, for many reasons. Safety is the number one reason why. I don’t think I would ever run a welded wheel for any reason, there is just too much down side.

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Scott. what year and series are you intrested in?

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Shop for your car at a PAS national meet, you get to see it run and prove itself on the tours over several days. We won’t even talk about ebay. I was at a show in Boca last week. The car that was parked next to us was listed as a Brunn Convertible Coupe from the mid 30’s. It was interesting that the owner thought it was a Brunn with a Body by Pierce tag on the cowl. What I found most disturbing is I was helping with a correct 100 point car and we lost to a car that was ……shall we say….. not even in the same league as our car. I venture to guess the car next to us would have score in the high 80’s at best, if it were not disqualified. Such is the show world. Non car people judging pre war cars when they can’t even drive a stick.

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Bob, I am impressed! I can see your big smile as you posted the info……thanks, Ed.

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I am not too familiar with these worm drive rears, but it seems many that are set up “correctly” tend to come apart. Not sure if it is the new high speed gears, or a material / process of the gear cutting, or set up issue. Does anyone have any factory or Timken set up info on these that can be published here?

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I have seen a bull gear failure on a Stutz, as the clearance changed when the rear got hot and it chewed it’s self apart. Do you have a factory side and end play figure? Also, correct lubricant is a must with that bronze bull gear. What’s the ratio of your set?

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