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Merlin…. what is a 1937 DeSoto????? Some kind of swamp tractor or saw mill rig? Ed 
My 33 1247 with fuel and water on a 147 in wb was 6712 lbs on the scale…. with me not in it. use 7000 as a safe guide. Ed
Perfect weather, great tours, and a show field of 80 cars made this one of the best meets ever. Thanks to Dave and Diana for all the hard work, as well as all the others who also helped out. Ed
What a day, my ride suffered a flat tire from a defective tube, a carb with rust in the jets, then a coil failure! We got it back to the hotel on it’s own power, and fixed and ready to tour tomorrow. Ride on! Ed
Cislak sells them, he has them in stock. Ed
Mr. Stone passed away a few years ago. There may be a few of his parts sitting on the shelf somewhere. I have one and the machine work and quaility was so poor it’s still on my shelf and I will not use it or sell it. Call John Cislak a PAS club member, whe may be able to help you out. Ed.
In 1932 there were no less than 5 Pierce cars at the white house, all were specials. I had some photos of them years ago and can’t find them today. They were also included in a Pierce factory sales film strip like Chris published last year.
Yes, I was told a club member bought it, I don’t want to disclose a name unless he chooses to do so, Ed
It has an archer, with a flag holder behind it. It has two flags flying.
Hi Bob, return lines work well, they just look terrible in many cases. But you still need to adjust for the fuel with the carb. How is the 33 doing? Ed
Hi Bill, while kerosene may alter the spefic gravity slightly, it still does not replace the lost energy or heat content from the change in fuel. It will lube the upper end a little bit, but it also will make for harder cold starting, and tend to load up the plugs. Ed
Dave, your the best! Ed
The photo was taken in Canada, the side mount covers I also picked up on, and how about that crown on the front bumper. Ed
I’ll chime in…. As a purist, I do not believe in modifications of ANY kind to our cars. That being said, we must adjust to some things out of necessity of the modern times. The two things that come to mind are tires and fuel. I’ll stick to fuel for this thread. I could post the chemical fuel formula of gas in the 30’s to date with all the different changes including aromatics, blends, heat content and such, and also talk about Stoichiometry and air fuel ratio’s, combustion chamber burn, flame speed, and spark plug heat ranges, but they all would amount to the same conclusion. Modern fuels are DRASTICALLY DIFFERENT than the old days. Specific gravity effects float level, alcohol content effects both air fuel ratios and causes higher combustion temperatures while providing less power. (One gallon of gas today has about 9 percent less energy than the 1970s and earlier.) The fuel temperature boiling point has dropped to such low numbers, that just about any vacuum tank set up will start having problem on any day over 80 degrees. My 31 Cadillac ran fine for years on the Stewart Warner vacuum tank, until it started to draw 10 percent ethanol, then it ran into problems. Additional problems include hot soak, which means when you shut your car down, the under hood temperature increases rapidly and the gas in the fuel line and carburetor bowls will push out or boil over into the manifolds. (If you own a V-12 Pierce, you have this problem.) The fix? Larger fuel lines provide more volume and less drag on the fuel making it much harder to vapor lock. Larger mechanical fuel pumps that are from the 50’s can be installed and look almost era correct will provide more volume and pressure if you carburetor can handle it. (Electric pumos are a must today for cold or hot start up.) New jets for both fuel and air installed in you carburetor to adjust for today’s modern fuels, along with proper tuning of your carburetor. Hotter spark plugs, increased compression, and larger less restrictive exhaust all will help out. Re-curving you distributor to come in earlier and with more advance will help also. And if you are not worried about fuel mileage you can dump in more fuel to cool the air charge and make lots more power, and black smoke. Don’t forget to keep the hood doors open to allow for cooling. The simple answer is to address as many of these items as you can, and the cumulative effect will be no more fuel problems. The hot soak shut down is just something your going to have to learn to live with. Ed
Hi Paul, no problem, It’s just that from the description of the pressure drop, and it’s in a known block that had cracks, I think that it is possible or probable it won’t show. It goes from high pressure cold to a normal pressure drop when warm, then an almost 66 percent drop under load. I would think that it’s not likely to be obvious of where the problem is until the motor is thoroughly hot. It may be that the test should be rigged so that it’s possible to drop the pan after the motor is hot with only a few pan bolts. But there is the danger of severe burns. This situation is a good example of running a motor in on a dyno if at all possible, or in the chassis without any hood / fenders, et in the way to be sure there are no problems. Working on a finished and assembled car with problems like this just seem to cause paint and body damage along with lost time. If memory serves me I ran my 36 V-12 for at least 6 hours in the chassis, and it suffered two lifter failures and one exhaust manifold crack. They were easy fixes while it was just a bare chassis. I hope that luck is with Jim and it’s an easy fix. My best, Ed.
Sounds to me like a pressure pot will not find the problem. If the pressure only drops after a long time and is that low under load, something strange is going on. I don’t understand all the work and new bearings and running the old cam bearings. It’s possible the oil filter is set up wrong and not using the correct oil ports for the lines, or you still have a crack in the block that openes up with temperature. Also, was the proper shim installed on the cam along with the oil slinger? The oil dump for the timing chain could also have been modified. This will be a difficult problem to overcome due to the high engine temp issue. It is always best to NEVER weld a block, ever. Stich repairs are ok in some places, but it may be worth your time to get another block, most parts will change over, and you can then put in new cam bearings, if lucky, the new mains will scrape in. Ed
Tony Zappone had them for sale at Hershey last year, give him a call. Ed
I understand sometimes people have bad or no information, but I sent the vendor information to correct their listing, and three of the four told me to pound sand. One seller said he copied another, then made an edit to the listing. So…… 3 out of 4 just don’t care. Be CAREFULL! ED
One could write a hundred pages on the new fuel and it’s problem in our old cars. To make it short and sweet, making the correct adjustments and upgrades are not terribly difficult, and once done will last a lifetime. New larger fuel lines and fittings, improvements in fuel pump kits, electric pumps, new main and idle jets for the modern fuel, as well as new air bleeds make for great improvements in start, idle, and running. At the same time the ignition system should also be upgraded and adjusted. When all work is finished correctly, the cars run as good as new, or better. Anyone wishing to experience the upgrades are invited to drive my 8 or 12 at the PAS meet and see for yourself.
Last one.
