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  • in reply to: Tires #394319

    Bob….. STUTZ??????? Have you turned to the dark side? Eddie

    in reply to: vent window crank “cage””” #394318

    If I remember correctly, all 34 to 38 cars used the same window crank cages and gears. I think each cage is front or rear, and left and right. I am sure if you make extras they will sell. Ask Dave if he still has the patterns or is planning to make them. They have always been a common needed item. Ed

    in reply to: Jay Leno at Pebble Beach with Pierce Arrow Video #394296

    JB’s trailer was a total loss when he found it. He took some liberties on the restoration. The 37 1603 Limo restoration did not impress me either. Ed

    in reply to: Hydrostatic fuel tank sending unit #394281

    You can buy brand new units, lock,stock, and line if you want to. I admit I just made mine read 2/3 full all the time and kept track of my miles driven to each refill.

    in reply to: Exhaust Manifold, cracks and breaks. #412154

    I guess I’ll put in my two cents worth. This won’t apply to people who have owned their car for less than five years. Over the last 30 years many people including myself, Irv Blonder, Dave Murray, John Cislak, Bob Sands, and a handful of others have made reproduction runs of parts that we or other people have needed. Usually the ad is placed in club publications, for several issues, pre selling the items in order to get an idea for demand and start a list of members who want the item. Then usually if there is enough demand the production run is made, and most times a few spares are also made over the actual number of items ordered. As most people who have made a fair amount of items will tell you, some people who are on the “order” list for one reason or another will back out when the time comes to pay for the item when it is ready to ship. On expensive items this leaves a very bad taste in the mouth of the person who made the run of parts, and it happens way more often than one would think. Just ask the guys who make lots of parts. This seriously affects the future run of parts being made and often, people just stop making extras due to the hassle of it all. Let me reassure you the guys making parts are not getting rich on this stuff. ( Just do the math on ten new exhaust manifolds, 10 X 2000.00 is 20,000.00 before crating, shipping, ect. Would YOU STEP UP IN THIS ECONOMY AND MAKE THIS RUN YOURSELF? I BET NOT! ) The second issue is that many members just assume that any part they need will be readily or easily available when they need it. ( Even gaskets are getting very hard to find.) Well, here’s an update. These cars are mostly 80 years old or better with very little demand for new or total restorations. The parts both new (reproduction) and used are just simply DRYING UP. They will only get harder to find and the reproduction parts market is just about gone with the exception of two or three guys who are still doing it. My best guess is that most of them will soon no longer find it financially worth their time, investment, or risk. I know most of them very well, and I can assure you they are very careful on how much money they invest and how long they will inventory the item before they all sell. While many parts can be made on a one on one basis, the cost per part becomes huge, in both time, labor, and research in manufacturing techniques. O.K. Now the point of all of this. Any Pierce Arrow owner who has a 1929 to 1932 eight that doesn’t have one of the new replacement exhaust manifolds made by the several different people who have manufactured them over the last 25 years, are to use a polite term….. “using very poor judgment,” … as all of the originals WILL FAIL sooner or later. Then instead of having a drivable car you have a three ton paper weight. Over the years I have stepped up to the plate and purchased two spare gear sets, two new spare exhaust manifolds, spare reproduction cylinder heads, and a large assortment of other items. I have done it for two reasons. Number one is I like to have a spare part that has a high failure rate in the original items. Most of the items are not easily made and the cost of making just one would be very cost prohibitive. Number two is it helps out the guy making the part, as well as helping out our club and hobby by increasing the items being made, and the larger quantity usually makes the price per unit drop. #3 If and when I sell my car I usually price in the extra spare new and used parts to go with it. Your money is always safe in a good supply of parts. It’s hard to put your money up front like this, but it helps preserve our cars, the hobby, and it also protects your investment dollars you have in the car.

    Just think, if every time a new reproduction part was being made that every one who owned a car that it fits would step up to help out, the cost of the parts for our cars would be very reasonable. So now a shore note to all members. Step up and help out the club, the hobby, and your car by making that purchase to keep the cars moving forward! Thanks, Ed Minnie

    in reply to: 1931 Model 42 Mosquito Sprayer #394271

    The rings are available. You can order them from most any piston company.

    in reply to: gas pressure #394254

    You can put a pop off valve in the tank area. They are available from supply houses that sell to scientific labs. Order one made of brass, not plastic. They are available in 1/2 pound increments. The gas today has a much lower boiling point and expansion ratio, and when the tank gets heated in the sun, pressure can rise. Also look at the air pump, cars run higher rpm today due to faster road conditions. I have seen this problem on my 14 Caddy. Too much pressure is VERY DANGEROUS! Youwant to run the system with as little pressure as possible and not have any running problems.

    in reply to: Blow-outs #394250

    I agree with what Greg said. I lost a right rear tire on my 31 Cadillac at 65 MPH on a race track :-) in a sweeping left hand turn. The failure was an explosive type, the tire tore off the rear fender 100% and 2/3 of the running board. I thought the car was going to roll over…… but I managed to keep it somewhat under control. Damage was about 20% of the value of the car. Now I replace tubes every 10 years. (In the process of doing it to all my cars right now, and I am about 25% done.) The fact of the matter is almost all of us drive faster than the car can safely handle a blowout. Good tires, tubes, and maintenance are the best prevention. And now a short note on old tires. Most of the club members have seen my 33 LaBaron at the meets the past ten years. When it was fresh out of the barn I ran it for several weeks before I put new tires on it. When I went to change out the first tire and I had let the air out of it I stood on the sidewall to see if the bead would brake loose. MY FOOT WENT THROUGH THE SIDEWALL!!!!!!!! Not a small hole or tear but the entire size of my shoe went right through. I was very disturbed, and will never forget John Cislak laughing his a** off at me. We had been running the car 60 MPH for 45 minutes on a hot day just a few days before! All the tires were in a similar condition and they showed no signs of age cracking or separation. Play it safe and always use good judgment when it comes to tires, tubes, and rims.

    in reply to: ID These photos please. #394242

    more

    in reply to: ID These photos please. #394241

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    in reply to: Ignition Coils for 1936-1938 #394240

    Correct PA coils have a wire running out the bottom of the coil. Modern replacments look ok, but the big bad judge will dock you points for the wrong style……. :-)

    in reply to: coolant in a 12 #394231

    Gentlemen, I am about to run some of this through my cooling system. It worked great on the rusty gas tank. It should be fine for the cooling system.

    safestrustremover.com

    It works like it says it does on the web site.

    in reply to: coolant in a 12 #394223

    We just run one in the top of the tank and tape it to the windshield. The top of the tank is the hotest part of the system. Is the radiator pushing water out the overflow? The winterfront should be open all the way. If not disconnect it and hold it wide open till you get the temperature problem fixed.

    in reply to: coolant in a 12 #394221

    Doug, when John Cislak makes exhaust systems for his or my cars we make them 2 1/4 the whole length. Even the tail pipe. We end up making new hangers as well. As I remember the muffler is 5 1/2 feet on my old 1247. Also, have you put a modern temp gauge in the top of your radiator to check against the PA temp unit…. It may be off. Ed

    in reply to: 27 Series 80 Club Sedan #394204

    Rick, I checked John’s stuff and his dome light is not correct for your application…..Ed

    in reply to: Exhaust Systems #394203

    Hi, my luck with them has been hit or miss. They made me 4 systems for my 31 Cadillacs and they fit fine. I ordered a system for my 1931 Series 42 touring and it wasn’t even close. Turns out they sent me a 29 system and INSISTED it was the same. It was not. I have seen their mufflers they have been making and they look very nice. I would buy mufflers from them and make your own pipes. John Cislak has some reproduction exhaust hangers available if you need them. Another member had a new “header”” pipe made for his 33 and it didn’t fit. I am not sure who made it. My last comment is that many of the pipes you order are longer so they will fit all the different chassis lengths. You may need to cut them down. Ed”

    in reply to: First long drive #412142

    Doug, your still running way too hot. Nobody who paid Pierce Arrow prices when new would have settled for an answer that they “always run hot”. Gas boils at 145 degrees, so an electric pump on a Pierce V-12 is a must. When you park it hot the fuel will boil out of the float bowls. Everyone I know uses a electric pump to make starting faster.

    in reply to: coolant in a 12 #394186

    I am going to start a new post on cooling and fuel systems. Ed

    in reply to: coolant in a 12 #412140

    V-12 Temperature update. Seagrave trucks had a heat exchanger in line with the fire hose pump when it was running so it would not overheat. Here is some new interesting information. While at the Rochester meet and on tour with my 36 V-12 we were running the back roads at 55 mph with 5 adults in the car. The temp held rock steady at 169 degrees. We were running normal 10 percent alcohol in the gas as it is the only thing available in Massachusetts. We had the opportunity to fill up in the Minnesota boondocks with regular gasoline with no alcohol in it. I have never ran my car on “normal old gas” since I have owned it. The pump was marked for collector car use only, not modern cars. Filled up the tank, and I took off down the road. Within five miles my car was running at 142 degrees for the entire day as well as the rest of the meet. It was actually opening and closing the shudders in the grill and cycling the thermostat open and closed from 138 to 142 for the next two days of the meet. I have never seen this happen on my car for the 20 years I have owned it. Ran it around home and still had the same results, but I have not filled up with our gas here yet. While I would believe a 5 degree drop with the “good old style fuel” I would not have believed 25 degrees without seeing it for myself in my own car. I will fill it up and give everyone an update soon with the 10 percent alcohol gas here in Mass.

    in reply to: Great Meet! #394185

    A trouble truck would be a good idea. It may get more people willing to participate on the tours with their cars. We used my pick up and trailer for the New England meet in New Hampshire years ago, and it worked out fine. As Tony said, a waiver would be a good idea for anyone needing it’s service. Ed

Viewing 20 posts - 1,721 through 1,740 (of 1,791 total)