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Viewing 20 posts - 121 through 140 (of 236 total)
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  • in reply to: 1929 Door tool kit. #400734

    Rick,

    If it is the same tool kit as a 1930 Mod B I can send you a picture of my tool kit. Jim

    in reply to: Floto #400729

    Jim,

    Restoration Supply has Stainless Steel mesh in several grid sizes. Jim

    in reply to: Hydraulic lifter changes #400637

    Jim,

    Wouldn’t a brass seat pound out of shape and leak again?

    When I made seats for the shocks I used a ball mill and the matching ball bearing. Jim

    in reply to: Emblems #400562

    Tony,

    Yes the body plate was mounted as you said but I understood Craig was asking abot the lube plate. Jim

    in reply to: Emblems #400560

    Craig,

    The lube plate was on the left front door pillar, but it doesn’t have the holes in the corners like yours. at first I thought it was soldered on but when I slipped a razor blade under it it came off and appeared to be glued on.

    I’l sure it is not a repro. since this car had been in the family since the 30’s and the owner had painted the whole car black with a brush including door jambs and chrome for the blackout war era cars. Was anybody making fake parts in the early 40’s?

    It’s second owner (maybe the first)was a Dr. in the LA area also. I found a bone under the back seat, maybe he took his work home with him. Jim

    in reply to: Cowl vent doors #400517

    Bill,

    Thanks I’ll give that a try. Jim

    in reply to: Cowl vent doors #400512

    The door is non magnetic. The sub frame is spot welded to the body opening and the small holes had screws from the outside screwing into a wooden surround on the inside to attach the kick panel and the chromed trim piece. Jim

    in reply to: Cowl vent doors #400487

    Here is a better picture to see the subframe the door sits in and has the other hinge half and the spring loaded strut.

    in reply to: Cowl vent doors #400486

    Bill,

    Here is a picture of the left door in the open position with the front of the door hitting the body. That is where the clearance is the best.

    in reply to: Rear seat assist strap #400400

    Ed there were no set screws like the rail brackets on the back of the front seat.

    David you were spot on, I used a piece of wood and tapped with a hammer upward and they came apart. After the outer piece slid up I needed to pry it out gently. Thanks to both for the responses, I’m getting real paranoid about how easy this pot metal is breaking. Jim

    in reply to: Pierce-Arrow Building for Sale #400278

    I guess 5 million would have been way too much. Jim

    in reply to: Bearing failure and high speed driving #400277

    Jim,

    I’m not sure but oil has improved alot in the last 80 years when those papers were written. Jim

    in reply to: Frank Lloyd Wright’s 1929 L29 Cord Color #400276

    John,

    Contact Ken Clark at http://l-29cord.com/index.html. He was always very helpful and knows alot about Cords. Jim

    in reply to: Wheel Locks #400269

    Paul

    How much just for the 6 bolts? Jim

    in reply to: Gasoline #399969

    Just a thought,

    If you took a 5 gallon gas can of the alcohol blend and put in a quart of water, then shook up the contents would the water absorb the alcohol and settle to the bottom. Then decant off the pure gas? Jim

    in reply to: Wiring Harness Ferrules & Headlight Lens Wire Retainers #399856

    John,

    The ferrules from Restoration Supply don’t work, for either end of the conduit. Jim

    in reply to: ’33 rear axle bearing replacement #399827

    Greg and Bill,

    If you have split the inner race to get the old one off clean the old race and turn it around so the small ODs are together and drive against the old race. Saves the cage. Jim

    in reply to: Clock stem #399747

    Bill,

    Where would the serial # be? On the case or on the works? Jim

    in reply to: Clock stem #399731

    Bill,

    Here is a picture of the clocks. The octagon one says 8 day but is NOT a Waltham. Nobody claims making it. It has very nice hands that glow in the dark and on the back there are two numbers 13162 and 824T.

    All of the clocks are just parts clocks, a couple are more parts than clocks. Jim

    in reply to: Clock stem #399728

    Bill,

    I didn’t look for any marking. They are Waltham 8 day. I’ll look tomorrow and include a picture. Jim

Viewing 20 posts - 121 through 140 (of 236 total)