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Steve,

Bottom only.

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Steve,

I made new floorboards for my 1703. The originals were particle board with sheetmetal covers. I used plywood but sandwiched thermal/sound insulation with new sheet metal on the underside.

Regards. Bob

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Ken,

C’mon what accident? We all care.

Bob

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You are welcome Don. I am happy that I could help.

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A little clarification and update on Paul. The knee replacement was about a year ago. He has not recovered mobility as hoped. Recently, he developed an infection in his left hip which spread to his right knee and both thighs. He is currently on some medication, but the doctors have not yet determined the source of the infection. He will have hospice care as appropriate.

The above is from my conversation with him yesterday.

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Bob, I have an extra pair I bought before having found the Canadian who makes exact reproductions. Give me a call:360-373-5386.

 

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I had a very bad experience dealing with SMS. I would not recommend them.

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Anyone else notice that the Archer is present in the still frames, but missing in the moving scenes?

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The Lester-Steele Handbook, Automobile Specifications, 1915-1942 shows that Series 80 P-A had Sparton horns.

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David,

My 1703 had both the runningboard and roof antenna installed, bur my radio only had one antenna connection (roof). Some radios were set up for both. I fabricated new runningboard antennas before I knew that. If you would like fabrication details let me know via e-mail.

The roof antenna is simply a wire soldered to the roof “chicken wire”. The chicken wire is mounted to the wood structure only and does not touch the body metal. Mine ran down the driver’s side windshield post.

 

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Steve,

I’m sending you a sketch of the crank handle via snail mail.

Bob Koch

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Dave,

You have an extra  a in address. It should be heritageaai.com.

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I think you mean Bragg-Kliesrath

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Jim,

My 1703 has four of these spacers in each wheel well, each of a different thickness. There is a steel plate fastened with wood screws to each spacer. The large holes are for the head of plow bolts that secure the assemblies to the well. I did not find a ready source for plow bolts, so I used elevator bolts instead; they have the same large head but are flat instead of crowned. One of the spacers was too thin to accept screws, so it was attached with countersunk rivets (OEM). I hope you have the special spacers for the bottom of the well, as they are a different profile and held in place with countersunk stove bolts.

Bob

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It’s available from the PAS Company Store, $15.00.

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Steve,

The Wiring and Tune-up Guide calls for a Model 266 TK relay, 0.25 amps to close contacts and 0.8 amps current draw.

Bob

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Jim,

Is the rail split?  My 1703 has a split tube. The finish is unimportant, as it was covered with upholstery. The ends of the material were forced into the rail slot.

Bob

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Jim,

These go into your fender wells to support the spare tire. You should have some blocks that bolt to the sides of the fender wells as well.

Bob

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Jim,

You know that if you close the doors when the handle is in the locked position, it locks them and they cannot be unlocked from the outside using the key. The tab on the right front door prevents your inadvertently locking all the doors, with no way to enter the car!

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Robert,

As I have commented on this forum before, one should not strike the puller bolt unless they are already planning to replace the bearings. Brinelling is the likely result of such hammering, requiring replacement of bearings and races. Dave’s warning about the danger of serious injury/damage with the axle nut removed is right on!

Bob

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