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Great looking car.
And the restoration was done in record time.
Any idea on a ballpark price for the reproduction caps that are in the works?
Then we just need some repro UU2 carb bodies. 
There is a wiring diagram in the Owner’s Manual in the Library section of this site.
If the link below doesn’t work just click the Library link on the left side under the Member Pages heading.
Once there just search for 1929 133 and you’ll see a link to the full Owner’s Manual pdf.
http://https://pierce-arrow.org/passecure/librarysearch/manuals/cars/PAS-OM40-09000160-OCR-R.pdf
I noticed the 4th barrel does not have the 2 ribs on the body that the originals have.
The nuts holding the two flat stock pieces are square so maybe they are older and not modern hex nuts.
Would be very interesting to find out the origins of this extra tail light piece.
There’s a PAS badge in the corner of the front windshield.
Anyone in the PAS know the car?
Ed, if the NAPA points are not correct then why are they listed in the parts and services directory?
I used that and this forum as a guide to replace the points in my car.
I’m not saying you’re wrong as I don’t know one way or the other but if the parts are not correct then the references to them should be removed the Parts and Services pages.
A few years ago I did what Robert has done and replaced my points with the ones from NAPA.
As he mentioned, the modification was very easy to accomplish.
It has been said by others on this forum that it is best to use Onan condensers if you can find them.
I believe I purchased them at NAPA as well.
As for the rotor, those can be tough to find but they are out there.
John, that is a great idea being as you pointed out that there are plenty of members that do not log into the website but rely on mail correspondence.
Peter, keep up the good work and thanks again for going above and beyond on behalf of PAS members.
My fourth Optima battery since this deal started a few years ago.
Decided at the last minute to add another battery in series to the one already in my Pierce.
I figured a little more starting power in the same amount of space as a full sized lead acid battery couldn’t hurt.
I’ll just remove the block of wood I have in there to take up the extra room in the battery box.
A single Optima battery starts my Rickenbacker just fine so I’ll leave a single one in that car.
Thanks again for putting together this great deal!
Very interesting coach.
The microphone shown in one of the pictures looks almost identical to the one in the rear of my ’29 ED Limo.
Great information.
Thanks for sharing all the details!
Congrats on the purchase of a great automobile.
As John mentioned, there are sure to be others that can fill in some gaps regarding your car’s history.
Welcome to the PAS!
Congrats on getting the motor back in the car after all these years.
I look forward to an update saying the motor has been fired up and is running well.
If the motor does have to come back out for some reason maybe you could remove the transmission first to help reduce overall weight and to bring the center of gravity more forward for easier removal.
No.3
Next
Finally got around to getting some pictures.
Sorry it took so long but I had major PC issues at home.
The coils on my ’29 slide out of the mounting bracket.
When I was troubleshooting an ignition issue I found that the diameter of the Napa coils was too large to fit into the mounting bracket.
It is a beautiful car with a great color combination.
Best of luck with the upholstery.
Sounds good.
For the best available lighting, tomorrow I will pull it out of the garage and take a few shots of the various wood pieces in the driver’s area and in the rear passenger’s area.
Would it help if I took pictures of the interior wood on my original ’29?
I know the lighting and other factors would greatly alter the appearance of the finish but I’ll take some pictures and post them if anyone is interested.
