All this talk about spring shackles makes me want to tear into mine to see how they look.
Is there a Service Bulletin that I can reference so I can tear mine down and make any needed correction?
Talk about over driving your headlights!
Running 120mph at night with those old headlights had to be frightening.
And I couldn’t believe how close some of the people would stand to where the car flew by them.
I, too, was impressed to see a Peirce post faster speeds than a Bugatti.
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone in the PAS family.
Hope you all have a happy, healthy Christmas season and a happy New Year.
I am very sorry to hear of Eric’s passing.
He was a great contributor to the PAS and, as others have mentioned, he was an invaluable resource for all things Pierce Arrow.
My deepest sympathies and condolences go out to his family.
Congratulations, Fay!
A well deserved award for an invaluable member of the Society.
I believe I went by the body numbers to determine when ours was built.
Is your car a late ’29?
Our car was made in Nov. of 1929 and it has a 1930 manifold just like the one you have on your car.
Our ’29 is a very original car and I firmly believe that the engine was produced with the ’30 manifold because of the very late 1929 production date.
No answer as to whether the correct points are listed in the Parts Directory?
I’d like to know so I can install the correct points and avoid any issues down the road.
If the parts listed in the Parts and Services section are not the correct ones then why are they even listed?
I was going by the information listed and did what I had to do to make them work.
I have zero issues with starting or power compared to the old set that was burnt when I cracked the rotor on the way to the Temecula meet.
I’d love to use the ‘correct’ points, just let us know which ones we should be buying, because the parts listed in our directory must be modified to work.
I purchased the points listed in the Parts and Services pages and had to do a slight modification so they would work.
You will need both the C778 and C779 since one is a left and one is a right.
The part you have to cut off is a tab where one end of the band mounts to the body of the points.
I went to Napa to buy the parts and the guy had to look through an old paper catalog so I will pick up another set before Napa decides not to carry them anymore.
I’ll take a picture of my distributor tonight if you like so you can see what they look like after they’re modified and mounted.
I don’t think I could put a value on our Pierce.
The car has been in the family for 49 years and I am merely this generation’s caretaker.
My grandfather purchased the car in ’63 and when he passed it was handed down to my father. My father passed away last year and the car was handed down to me since I have been the one grandchild that had the longest history and interest in the car.
My father purchased a ’26 Rickenbacker about six months before my grandfather acquired the Pierce so I grew up working on and riding around in his Rickenbacker and my grandfather’s Pierce. I’ve always liked the look and uniqueness of the Rickenbacker but there was always something special about the Pierce. I know that Pierce cars are special vehicles but the fact that my grandfather cherished the car makes it all that much more special to me.
Our Pierce is a very original car and I am doing everything in my power to see that it remains as original as possible.
I do get the occasional question about the car’s value but to me the car is a family heirloom and it would be impossible to put a real monetary value on the car. There are far too many family memories tied to the car for me to every sell it since to me it belongs to the family.
My name may be on the title, but to me, it will always be ‘Grandpa’s Pierce.’
Some great pictures.
Thanks for sharing.
Looks like a nice, solid car.
Same color combination as our ’29.
I’ve gone through the UU2 on my ’29 so if you need help let me know.
The gasket places are pretty self explanatory once you get into the carb.
The float mount tang under the float cover can be very fragile so just be careful when you pull the float cover.
Be gentle.
Also, your venturies may be brittle as well but John Cislak sells replacements.
He has quite a few replacement parts for the UU2.
Not quite the sound I imagined it would have.
It sounded like it was starving for oil.
Nice video, though.
Dave, very sorry to hear that your car got hit at the meet and to top it off you were also injured in the incident.
Hope you recover quickly and you get your car back into service soon.
Aside from the mishap to Dave’s car it sounds like everyone had a great time and enjoyed one of the better meets put on by the Society.
I hope to one day venture to the ‘other’ side of the country and take part in one myself.
A quick internet search turned up an Aug 22-23, 1904 record of an RH Magoon running a stock Pope-Toledo touring car at the Glenville Driving Track in Cleveland Ohio.
In one contest he ran all 5 laps and placed 3rd.
Sounds like your guy.
He also drove in other contests during that same time frame.
Here is the link I found. Happy hunting!
http://freepages.family.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~ancestraltree/doc/acstewart/1904.pdf
Looks like a great turnout.
+1 on the request for more pics.
Congrats on your new venture.
I have a ’29 143(126) EDLimo that is a very late ’29 production car and is very original.
I can send you photos of anything in the engine compartment. Just drop me an e-mail with what you want pictures of and I’ll send them out.
From what I understand there were at least two types of water pumps installed on the ’29 8 cylinder so mine may look a little different than yours.
A very nice video.
I wonder how many of these cars are still on the road today?
If people like the ones in this video didn’t have an appreciation for what was then just an old car, we wouldn’t have our cars to enjoy today.