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This is the Kouri speedster that was, at one time, part of the Bill Harrah collection. While a very well done custom car, I think it’s what is known as a “Bita” car… a little bita that car, and a little bita that other car…but not a true Pierce for sure…as I posted on the AACA forum about the same car, don’t know what the background of the car has to do with paint…it’s not an original factory paint job to start with, and even when I saw the car in the early 80’s at Harrahs, it was a repaint…interesting car, and you family has a very interesting collection based on what can be seen in the background of the photos…good luck with car, looks like great fun…

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Hey, gotta try to keep him dry!!!

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My ’31 Model 43 has an interior copied exactly from an original, though it’s a phaeton the driver’s door is the same…I can send you a sketch and pictures….

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Thanks for posting this, Peter….. I bought the drawing. The thing that really sold me on it is that it shows the design for the stair railing inserts, with the arrow.

I know there was such railing in the factory, if anyone has a section that came from there for sale let me know!! I don’t know if any are out there in private hands…….

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third picture

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second picture

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I’ve reduced picture sizes and will try to post…..

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I love the topic of greasing leaf springs (although I realize that wasn’t the original question), it brings out so many opinions.

If the contact surfaces between each leaf were perfectly frictionless, then the car better have darn good shock absorbers. One function of leaf springs is to dampen movement, and the amount of damping is directly related to friction between each leaf. Of course, springs can’t be rusted together either, or there’s no inter-leaf movement and thus no “spring”.

My personal opinion is that most cars have the best ride when leaf springs are cleaned/smoothed separated (bead or sandblasted), painted with an epoxy primer, and assembled dry. There are many who believe the opposite, that there should be oodles of grease between each leaf……and I’m not sure there’s a right or wrong answer…..

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Are you going to include some kind of identifying mark, a dot or dash or some such mark, so that in five years we aren’t bidding on these on Ebay as originals? Just a thought…..

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The current owner has been searching and searching for any documentation on this thing, and apparently has found nothing.

I believe the fact that there seems to be NO documentation speaks volumes. If this thing had been run at speed anywhere, there’d be pictures or articles, something to document it….I think as Ed does, it was a garage project that eventually ended up outside, and probably never moved an inch under it’s own power.

Sure is interesting what’s out there, though…..it’s a big country, and new things turn up every day…..

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Rempco in Cadillac, Michigan, makes gears and pieces for the antique car trade, ask for Gil, his direct email is [email protected], he does the one-offs and and small runs: Rempco Inc

251 Bell Avenue,

PO Box 1020,

Cadillac Michigan 49601-6020 U.S.A.

Phone: USA 1-231-775-0108

Fax: USA 1-231-775-9936

Email:- http://www.rempco.com Web Site:- [email protected]

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I moved to the north part of Virginia 27 or so years ago, I’m a Louisiana boy, still not quite sure what all this white stuff is outside…guess one day ought to drive the phaeton out there and take a picture…kudos to those who brave it…

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Craig, on my ’31 phaeton the rear springs were almost flat, so when Bob D. asked me for a pattern, I gladly removed my rear springs and sent one to be replicated…including a set for me.

New springs and all the right bushings, and the springs are still very flat with little travel on the shackle. That said, the car rides nicely so no problem. With these fairly heavy cars, I believe that there’s little spring travel vertically…

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Auctions can be so unpredictable, and one can never know the reasons behind selling nor what it might take to buy a car.

I had a very good friend, now departed, who built a wonderful Classic car collection by going to auctions. He’d pick out the handful of cars he might want, write down what he thought was a great buy for the car, and NEVER bid above that amount. Sometimes he got one or two cars, sometimes none and he knew how to walk away.

But often there are circumstances (seller must sell, wrong people in audience, and so forth) that lead to great auction deals.

Of course, the rest of the story on this Pierce would help. Was it running, what if anything was wrong with it, and so forth….

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As I tell my son, you’re mostly welcome! Always nice when a piece of automotive trivia stuck in the brain is useful….

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I’ve owned a few mid-30’s eights, and one 12, and of course the 12 was a fantastic driver, with the effortless power.

The question has come up in Packard circles too, which do you prefer, 8 or 12. The answer seems to be, if you show them, the 12, but if you drive them, the 8. The reason cited is cost of rebuild, if the 8 breaks it’s $x to fix, if the 12 breaks it’s $3x to fix….

This is not, of course, everyone’s opinion, but it’s a reasoning I’ve come across numerous times…

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Excellent find and welcome to the club! A great project and a rare car by any definition…congrats!

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Have your reflectors nickel plated, then send to Uvira for the aluminized coating process, excellent reflective surface and you never have to polish…. [email protected]

By the way, chrome is an awful reflector coating, although it shines, it absorbs a lot of light.. not intuitive but true…

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I saw the pictures of this car a couple of months ago, and shared with Ed, he agreed that it was a conversion. As he also said, it’d be a fun car for about half that price or less……

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In 1966, I helped a fellow paint my first car, a 1931 Chevrolet tudor sedan.

We used lacquer, which was still very much in use at the time (at least for restorations).

He would spray 3 coats, then we’d sand down the paint. Then he’d spray 3 more, and repeat. We did this 5 times, for a total of 15 coats and 5 sandings, that’s 20 steps just in the paint…and doesn’t count surface preparation and final color sanding and buffing.

I can understand that the total could reach the 40 to 50 range if each step is broken down…

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