- Home
- About Us
- Join/Renew
- Member Benefits
- Member Pages
- Log In
- Help
- Museum Store
did- cid
It’s basically the same as a late series big did motor. It’s a 385 if my memory serves me. Same bore as the other eights, has a stroker crank. A 1944 motor could even be a leftover block from the car run. Check the casting codes.
Aftermarket needle and seats included in the kit have been up to 60 percent restricted due to wrong flow hole size and over sized needle body, causing massive fuel restriction.
A correct total rebuild with all the bolt on’ done with correct chrome and all new parts would run 50k. New Pistons,rings,pins,valves,springs,guides,rod and main bearings, cam bearings,gaskets, and machine work would run 25k today in a professional restoration shop. Cislak has three motors he is doing over for people now with low end rebuilds that failed. One of the main bearings had 27 thousands clearance. But the price was good! I very much liked how they had San blasted the Pistons to clean them…..they even left some sand in the motor. It’s 2016………..car work is getting very expensive………even Duesenberg owners car trying to save money, I spent a few days this week sorting one out that was done by a great post war engine rebuilder. Do you want to hear a sad story?
Most car kits available today have incorrect parts. two years ago when I was running your car it was dumping fuel at idle. You need to install the fuel line upgrade Cislak sells if he still has any available, sort the mechanical pump, and add a good electric pump. If you changed out the needle and seat, put your old ones back in, the new ones being sold are very undersized. I have seen this several times. Lots of parts being sold as correct for Pierce Arrows are for much smaller cars and just repackaged, common issue.
That drive flange is different than any other I have seen, and we have a dozen on the shelf and they are also different. Sure looks modified to me. Some just float on the square drive, and you can hear them click if there is too much play in them. Looks like a puller will remove that one. I would also use heat. Ed.
Dave is correct, that is the car you are asking about. Only the very rear of the car was crushed.
on a 32 I would only use black, as Greg listed. I have never seen a green engine that I thought was correct after 1930.
you should see the one with the Mags……
If I remember right, two cars were donated to the school, they were restoring the sedan, and this is probably the parts car. I bet its fast with that speedster body.
I have been through his place several times. All the eight and twelve stuff is ALL gone, as far as I can determine. There was a series 33/36 sedan cut to truck parts car in the yard that looks like it has been outside for 25 years. There were also a very FEW earlier parts, but not much. There seemed to be more Lincoln stuff kicking around. Most all of his cars were complete and intact, lots of interesting and unusual cars, many barn finds parked in place for years. He was a great guy and good friend. I enjoyed my time I spent with him, a true gentleman and founding father of the hobby, Ed.
or you can use a Stude cap…….they are about 400 nos, getting harder to find…..doesn’t look correct.
When you think you have seen everything……Pierce Arrow builders throw another monkey wrench in the works. I will take a look around the shop to see if any of our drums are different.
Another example of points and condensers going the extra mile, my 33 V-12 1247 sat for 48 years, I put some gas in the tank, installed a new battery, and it fired right off. I drove the car for 10 years and 9000 miles, and seven years later the car is still running fine on the same parts. My 1914 Cadillac with 7000 original miles had the factory points and condenser until 2011. The condenser went bad after driving it for the first time since 1947, and killed the spark on the road. I cut the wire, car started right up, and drove it home. We installed a modern condenser but the 1914 set of points is still in the car. Ed.
I was speaking of the series 42 barn find missing all the parts in the photos. I do not know the blue car, I have only seen it in photos.
Recently a cut down coupe was converted to an open car, and sold as a conv coupe. ALL open cars should be considered with a suspicious eye, until proven correct. The same also goes for any twelve, And ALL open twelves should be considered fake until proven otherwise. I can think of a bunch that are not correct. Sadly some of the owners are not aware they own fake/converted cars.
It’s not even a parts car. Too much missing.
I think they have changes suppliers and the new ones are a fit all type of situation. I can tell you this, they wont set up on a distributor machine, and they don’t have enough adjustment to get set up correctly. The angle of the cam follower is also steep and awkward. I have thousands of miles on my 36 V12 over the last 25 years……I think about 20k…..and when I pulled the distributor last year the points were fine and where I set them in 1991. More often than not, points are fine. You don’t need to change them for a tune up. It is a good idea to replace condensors now and again. Its more important to get the distributor set up correctly, with a free and fully working advance. More often than not, they are not functioning correctly. I probably set up 15 Pierce distributors a year, I have never had one come in that didn’t need attention. Ed
The Napa points are not correct, they will not set up correctly. I have seen cars not even start after using these when replaced. Just buy a correct set of vintage deco points. They aren’t hard to find. Ed
He did one for me 6 months ago, it works well. Ed
