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I don,t think I would grind down the face. They may have used rivits too thick, then once it was ground, you may not have much life left on the disk. I would have a new face installed to the correct thickness, and use both rivets and a bonding glue on it. Make sure the rivets set deep enough on the disk. Ed

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On my 33 1247, only the King Sealy gauge was the only item that did not work on the car. I never bothered with it. I drive my cars quite a bit, and I still use the full tank and odometer method of gas status. On my 36 PA we used a ford sender from the mid 30’s in order to make the sender easily replaceable. In the last 20 years, I have gone through 3 of them. Fortunately they are easy to change, and ford parts are not expensive, and by some strange reason when they failed, they all read full instead of empty as they should have. It was always a long way to the gas station. Now I just keep a full tank and top off every 150 miles. I know several members who rig the King Sealy to read 1/2 tank as they can judge the car without any problems, also one member put a WD 40 tube inside the glass gauge, cut to length, he also never needs to worry about gauge failure!

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It makes no difference as it only measures resistance and has no power going to it. Ed

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Oivind, my guess is you are correct, the lining is too thick, or if when the flywheel was ground, the top support posts were not ground the same amount, possibly too much. Also, if new clutch springs were installed on the pressure plate, they could be to strong, or their compressed height is too long, thus causing the clutch to drag. I will see if I have any factory measurements in my files. Ed

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Tony, the car looks great. Ed

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Hi Doug, I am on the road and can’t check on it for a few days. Ed

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The shafts are lined up even with the flange on the outside ends. The top shaft is a factory 32-33 V-12, the middle shaft is a 36-38 V-12, the bottom is a 31 aftermarket 1930’s NOS shaft. Look close as there are differences in them. Ed

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Another.

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Here are some photos.

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No, my 31 has a 10 spline and is a one year only shaft. It’s overall 3/4 of an inch longer than the 32 and later, but with a shorter spline section by about 1 inch. The 31 is overall the oddball. Be sure to check for cracks. I would say that more than half of the used shafts ahve cracks in them. Bob’s post is correct, but we have found some off brand shafts that look diffrent but in most cases work. Ed

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Hi Bob, Thats the same info we have, but found diffrent axles in the rears, possibly a aftermarket application. We also noticed that the shafts will swap out but the diameter of the shafts can be diffrent! The good news is that they all fit from both sides. I will post some photos in the next few days. Ed

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No, all the late style axle shafts are not the same. We have had 4 diffrent ones on the shelf at the same time. Length overall and spline length vary from year to year and 8 to 12, some will cross over and some won’t. 29 and 30 were the early style, 8 spline if I remembor correctly. 31 has a longer shaft with a short spline. There are some other issues from 32 and later, but I am out of town and do not have my notes. It may be a worm or hypoid issue. Ed

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Gemmer Steering Box Project

Gemmer steering box worm project for the 215 series Gemmer boxes that fit Cord, Stutz, Pierce Arrow, and others. After posting a notice that I was going to make worms I received many more inquires than I expected, so I thought I would post this narrative for all to read and understand the project. I am going to manufacture worms, but they are intended to be sold only to my customers using my Gemmer Steering Box rebuilding service only. Please read on to understand why. In early 2009 I started rebuilding and upgrading Gemmer steering boxes for several customers and my own car. I manufactured new roller wheels, new roller axles, and new roller wheel thrust bearings. I also upgraded the sector shaft by hard facing the sector, and removing the bushings from the box and installing roller bearings and modern seals. I also developed a repair for bad worm bearings that works well. With all the upgrades the box works better than new. Unfortunately there was no fix for a bad (worn) worm until now. With all new seals and gaskets the finished box was filled with ATF and did not leak. This will allow any modern gear oil to be used in the box instead of the tar like grease that was used when new. Every box that I have taken apart so far that has had an attempt to repair it has turned out to be junk. Several people who have advertised to repair these boxes have caused severe damage to the box and in almost all cases have made all the parts unusable and non-repairable. I have been restoring Classic Cars to the highest standards for over 20 years. All my work is done satisfaction guaranteed. I also make over 100 reproduction parts for Pierce Arrow cars and Stromberg carburetors. All my parts fit and function as the originals, guaranteed or your money back. The worm project is complicated and requires difficult machine work to the box and sector shaft as well as other modifications for seals and bearing upgrades, thus it is not practical for worms to be sold over the counter as they would still require additional modifications to the box to be used. The cost of the worms will depend upon how many I manufacture. I currently have one customer that wants a right hand drive worm. I hope to get a few more orders in able to get the cost per worm lower. With the high cost of the worms I don’t intend to try and mark them up, and thus will only benefit from any labor involved in the rebuilding of the box. My COST on the worms is:

1 worm $1650.00

2 worms $1350.00

3 worms $1250.00

5 worms $1000.00

Newly manufactured worms will come to me be needing the bearing surface ground. They will be made from 52100 steel and heat treated. My flat rate to rebuild the Gemmer box with all the above modifications with parts and labor is $1850.00 and if you need a worm you would add the dollar amount to the flat rate depending on how many worms we make. A good guess for total cost of a rebuild with worm is $3000.00

If you have any questions, please call me during east coast business hours at 413-543-9017. Thanks, John Cislak, Classic Auto.

[email protected]

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I vote that Bob Sands buys them…… they will be 100 points before you know it!

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Curt…. Tony is a snow bird……… neither he or his Pierce have seen snow in years! Here is a shot out my back door yesterday in Mass, it was -17 at 6 am.

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Can I be next in line for a Pierce Arrow give away? I would prefer your 31 first and the 36 as a good second. I am available most any time with truck and trailer. By the way, the limo in the photo is a much better car than what I started with on my 1936 1602 club sedan. Thanks, Ed

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I must admit that I too have had nothing but good luck over the last 20 years driving my V-12 Pierce. As a matter of fact, the most costly repair so far has been a new set of tires after driving fifteen thousand trouble free miles. I must admit the gas is kind of pricey when driving a twelve. I’m pretty sure Paul Johnston has been driving his late model Pierce for over 50 years without any trouble either. Carl, did you contact any club members for help when you were having trouble with your car? Most any member is always willing to lend a hand and moral support to get a car running properly.

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John Cislak purchased most of his remaining inventory.

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Roger, got your message, I’ll call you tonight. Ed

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Roger, do you need the cast grill surround, louvers, or the chrome insert at the top or bottom?

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