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Hello Gents,

The emails are out to Coker Tire and to Universal Tire.

We will see what they do with my request for a Pierce-Arrow Society deal.

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John,

I am coming to Rochester this Summer to see that Trike!

You can always bring it to the Buffalo Meet in 2015.

Then you can race the Motorette.

Peter

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You need to take the Tony Zappone approach to K-S gas gauges.

Take one of those red straws that you put in your WD40 to focus the spray, measure off the correct length, cut it and then put it in the K-S head unit on the dash.

Then your gas gauge will always read the same, empty or full.

You just have to fill up the tank before each outing.

BTW, Chis Diekman seems to have his K-S working, so perhaps, you need to ask him how he did it. I think that he used silicone sealant on each of the joints.

I have a K-S on my Series 80 and it has always been a bother.

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Jak,

I wonder what the shipping is to OZ?

Peter

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Could the mystery guy be Charles Lindbergh?

That would be late May 1927, just after he crossed the Atlantic.

He has a striking resemblance to the Prince of Wales.

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I guess then it ain’t the bloody Prince.

The first pic showed plates that are clearly 24, 25, or 27, just by the configuration of the lettering above the registration number 102.

All I know is that it was not Zachary Taylor!

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It is not a 1914 DC plate.

See pic.

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My experience with sailing vessels and the stainless on them taught me that with stainless, the faster you tried to drill (work) it, the more difficult it was to drill.

Drill fast (work harden) and one burns up bits. If you slow down on the drilling, it cuts easily.

I have a number of burnt titanium drill bits that show the effect of over eager drilling, as they are now JUNK.

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I think it is the Prince of Wales, the one who abdicated for the woman from Chicago, what was her name?

The divorcee, Wallace Simpson?

it is a very nice landaulet.

I would love to have a Pierce-Arrow like that one.

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I will chime in on this discussion and again thank David and Linda Baird for their huge effort in making a memorable Winter Meeting.

Peter

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Thanks for the endorsement Tony!

My next campaign slogan will be: A chicken in every pot!

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I just went to the website: http://www.worldlicenseplates.com and looked up the Dist. Col. plates for the 1920s & 1930s. Some of the images shown (1924 through 1927) match the plate in the pic.

The 1924 plate was yellow on black. The 1925 plate was white on dark blue. The 1926 plate was black on orange and the 1927 plate was yellow on black. The 1928 plate was black on yellow but had a different letter / number arrangement.

Ergo, the plate shown in the picture was either 1924, 1925 or 1927, so I believe that my brain was correct in thinking the last digit on the plate across the top is 1924.

The plot thickens!

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Wowie-Zowie Ben!

The full size pic on the Florid Region Newsletter has quite a lot of “grain” (for those of us who were brought up before the “pixel” age) so it is difficult to discern the small letters on the top of the License Plate.

The License Plate number is “102” and my brain wants to say that the top of the license plate reads; “Dist. Col. 1924.” I only wish that I could get a good image of the P-A’s radiator mascot, but it blurs against the grey suit of the man directly in line with it. I want to say that it is an eagle of some sort.

The second car in line seems to be a Lincoln, although it is not running a “Weed” style bumper. The headlight surrounds are black, Cadillac? Its License Plate number is 1-148 with the same abbreviations on the top of the plate.

Is this helpful information?

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There were / are two versions of the Helmeted Archer. I believe that the one with the foot dangling was from the 29 and required a raised radiator cap as shown in the EBAY example. I believe that the radiator cap shown on EBAY was correct, even though the seller thought it was a replacement. If it was a replacement, it was a correct replacement.

Regarding the missing foot, I have one where my Plating Guy had his Repair Guy replace the missing half-foot and toes. It can be done and it is not too expensive. The repair is invisible.

All tolled, my archer, purchased, repaired and re-plated cost about what the Archer sold for on EBAY and my arrow is not heading South!

The William C. Williams book, “Motoring Mascots of the World” (page 62) indicates that there were two types, angled foot and dropped foot.

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There is an absolutely BEAUTIFUL MotoMeter Standard on EBAY, eBay item number:231085663906.

It is expensive, but it is out of sight!

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Oh, I forgot to say, you should consult an experienced Moto-Meter EBAY buyer (I am available) as you ned to know that the piece WORKS before you buy a nice looking clunker (experience).

If you want to know the trick, be in touch via telephone.

Some sellers say that they did not test the piece, HA! Likely does’t work or else they don’t know how to boil water!

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If you go on EBAY, be patient and as Greg and others say, the plate is interchangeable.

If the size is a De Luxe, the new ones from Resto Supply are about the same OD (3.5″) but thinner and if nothing else, it will get you through while you hunt on EBAY for an original.

The Resto MOTOMETERS are chrome but the thermometer unscrews, so it could go to nickel easily. Then all you have to do is put in the correct nameplate.

I have one of those Resto jobs and now I NEVER use it because I now have a collection of original Universals and one SUPER-DUPER De Luxe.

The SIZE you want is the biggest issue in finding an excellent piece.

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What do you need to do to it?

Re-plate it, tough to do.

New thermometer? Tougher!

Advise as to the problem and maybe we can help.

Also specify the size (Universal (3″) or Standard / DeLuxe (3.5″).

Often the best thing to do is hang out on EBAY for MONTHS and look for good one at auction.

That stated, good ones are now more difficult to find.

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Good buy David.

I am envious that you have the wall space.

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Paul,

PHEW! Quite a description.

Peter

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