[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Joe had a chair for me,as promised and we had a great discussion about the merits of a LeBond Lathe vs a Southbend and milling machine options.

My wife was intrigued by the golf bag door and the condition of the interior.

Joe has an absolutely gorgeous car and I think a lot of people appreciated the chance to see it.

Joe had to drive about 20 miles and he had trouble keeping it under 55/60.

Spectacular day with a true ambassador of the hobby. Topped the day off with a high rev run back home thru the mountains in the Maserati.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Here is another. There were very few true antiques, mainly restomods and muscle cars. There was a very nice 51 Studebaker Starliner Convertible.

A LaSalle and a Model A sedan.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Joe,

I am going to Blairsville Saturday. I will stop by and you can tell me about your fuel gauge. Weather looks like cloudy in the 60’s no rain.

Bill

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Joe,

Thanks for the update and particularly for bringing the car. It was georgeous and the highlight of an otherwise dull show. I enjoyed talking to your group, just sorry my memory isn’t photographic, if I don’t write it dawn I probably won’t remember it.

I have been in the steel industry for 38 years and have determined iron causes memory loss, at least that is my excuse.

Hope to see you and the car next year.

Bill

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

It has this notation on the auction site

BUY IT NOW $42,000 / OR MAKE AN OFFER – CALL (561) 533-7945

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I just checked and my Floto is floppy. A week ago I wouldn’t have known to check it. I’m thrilled, my wife, not so much. That explains a lot of things.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Arnold,

Thank you. You are a gentleman and a scholar.

Bill

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I just got my last 2 rims. Thank you to everyone that helped.

Does anyone have a diagram/picture of the backing plate the drums mount on?

This is the one that bolts to a a cast boss with the fuel tank filler going thru it and the license is above the taillight. The boss has 4 holes in a rectangular pattern. I don’t think it has any bracket for the license, I think it is like a partial overlapping set of 8’s

All help appreciated.

Bill

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Greg,

Thank you. Since Sir William Lyons and I have the same name, the Jags were kind of a natural.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

This is mine

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Roger,

Beautiful parts!!

Did you use the urethane additive or just as it came in the can?

Bill

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

May want to check this thread. Seemed like some good info.

http://forums.aaca.org/f169/1912-pierce-arrow-motorcycle-200464.html

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

David,

Check with Dale Walksler at Wheels thru Time in Maggie Valley, NC. I was there a couple of months ago and he had a single and had just moved a 4. He has an unbelievable collection of bikes and parts.

Bill

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I also have this which looks like a pressure regulator/filter. Is it Pierce and if so what?

Thanks

Bill

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

The answer to the question is:

9/16 coarse (12tpi)

Over all length = 3 7/8″

Shaft length under the head + 3 3/8″”

Head is drilled for wiring”

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Arnold,

I don’t know the wheelbase, but there is this one.

http://classiccarsofsc.com/1929-pierce-arrow-chassis-and-radiator-shell-only-1000-2/

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

A.J.,

Here is an article that may help

http://restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=4677

Bill

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

To continue, I then chuck the shaft in my drill press, bolt a steel channel to the base to hold the case. I then insert the blade in the screw and have my engineering assistant (wife) hold pressure down on the quill and then turn the blade with the two handles.

Caution, be sure to grind the tip of the blade down so that you get full contact with the sides of the screw. You want no clearance.

If this doesn’t work email me and I will give you the name of a good starter shop.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Bill makes a good point. You don’t want to use heat to remove the field coil shoe screws as it might affect the coils. If possible I recommend testing the coils for continuity and make sure they are not grounded to the case. If everything tests ok, then leave them alone.

In my case, the amount of rust in the case was too severe to not remove them. I first tried a hand held impact driver, the one you hit with a hammer and the blow creates rotation. This failed to move anything. I then center drilled the screw with a 1/4″ bit. Don’t drill in more than 1/2″ or you might hit the armature. That relieved enough pressure to back them out. Word of caution, if you go this route be sure you have new screws to replace them with. They can be hard to find.

Since it requires a lot of force to remove the screws it should take a lot of force to replace them. The shoes really need to seat the field coils as snug against the case and you will not be able to generate sufficient force with a hand held screwdriver and I don’t like the impact tool as I have chipped some bits in the past.

To solve this problem, I built a tool similar to the original with a 3/8 square shank screwdriver, a 3/8 square drive machinist’s wrench and a drill press.

First I cut off the screwdriver shank from the handle. Then I slipped 2 of the 3/8 machinist’s wrenches over the shaft, 180 degrees apart.

(see below)

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jak,

Try these guys. Then and Now Automotive.

Bill

http://www.maritimedragracing.com/then_and_now_automotive.htm

[Author]

Posts