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Thanks Tony and Pat, for all your planning.

We had a great time in Tucson.

Old friends, great cars, great hotel, good meetings.

Bob Jacobsen

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Calvin & Bill,

The latches for a 1934 836A are completely different from a 1933 836 and 1236 (P/N 764581).

However, it looks like the 1934 836A MAY be same as the 1933 1242 & 1247 (big 12’s), except for internal plating finishes.

The 836A latch ASSEMBLY part #’s (771041 front and 771015 rear) are different from the 1242/47 part #’s (758555 and 556), but all the internal parts (guide, handle, latch, pin, etc.) have the same # as the 1242/47 internal parts except for some plating suffix #’s. For instance, the 836A case is galvanized (G suffix), while the 1242 case is cadmium (U suffix), etc.

There is one thing I don’t understand – there are 2 rear assemblies listed for the 836A, one for 136″ wheelbase, and another for 144″ wheelbase. I don’t think the 836A ever used a 144″ wheelbase.

Hope this helps.

Bob

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Bill,

Another difference I noticed seeing your cranks side by side: On my ’33, the threads engaging the nut to hold the vibration damper on, only engaged ⅝” of the 1″ thick nut, leaving a ⅜” “canyon”. I always wondered if somebody shortened my threads for some reason, and worried that the engagement was less than optimum. It now looks like it was a factory dimension, that although provided enough holding force, would be better if longer, and they realized that later. My ’34 is indeed about ¼” longer like your ’35 (and has integral counterweights).

Happy New Year!

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Another hint: If you want to replace the interior insulating pad (visible from the cabin) on a ’33 – ’35 (maybe others), while you have the engine side firewall off, cut off the screws holding the interior pad, and install captive nuts in the holes in the welded firewall. The screws and nuts are usually rusted solid, so installing a new pad would be difficult to say the least. You can probably do it later, when you replace the pad, cutting the screws off and installing captive nuts, but easier when apart, cutting screws off at nut side.

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Hi Bill,

The ’33 thru ’35 (and maybe other years) used a detachable engine side firewall (called a “sub-dash”), and a welded-in cabin side second firewall (dash), with about 1.5 inches of kapok insulation in between. The engine side sub-dash was attached by unpainted (cad or zinc) pan head machine screws to the cowl, with 9/64″ or 5/32″ diameter fender welting in between for squeak prevention (round bead showing). I have seen several original sub-dashes and all were semi-gloss black. It stands to reason: they would grab a black sub-dash and black welting for any car coming down the line. Tried to upload a photo, but didn’t work. Email me if you want one.

Cheers,

Bob

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Hi Ken,

Looks like a pretty complete car, one that could be a nice driver, but not a show car w/o $$.

Regarding your question on length, your Chevy Tahoe should be 204″ long, my ’34 Pierce 840A (139″ WB) is 210″ long, and the 1240A Limo (144″ WB) should be no more than 215″ long.

Looking at the pictures on the Volo W/S, here are the little things I spotted that don’t HAVE to be changed, but would be $$ items if you wanted to make the car completely authentic from a judging standpoint: wrong h/l ($$) and aux light lenses, backup lenses should be amber, rear bumper is actually a front bumper (rear does not have dip in middle), LF door check strap missing, running board covers incorrect (too many ribs, no aluminum salon strips in every other slot), outside window w/s needs repl., extra handle under lower front hood doors, chrome and paint have age issues, wrong gas cap, pipe sticks up too high, gas gauge missing, temp gauge needs new convex glass (not a big deal), looks like firewall insulation missing (available), steering column floor grommet missing (avail.), headlight lever on steering column broken, clutch pedal pad wrong, upholstery looks like it might be corduroy instead of broadcloth, modern regulator, Startix on wrong side, wrong oil filter, pretty sure top insert molding wrong, with exposed screws. That said, not a bad car for the price if it doesn’t require engine work. I wouldn’t buy a car without a compression check. Does it vapor lock on a hot day after a long drive? Does the free-wheeling work? Are the brakes fantastic? (They should be.)

Hope I didn’t dash your hopes – just wanted to point out items so you know beforehand.

Cheers,

Bob

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Hi David,

I took a series of photos of my ’34 conv for Rich Atwell’s restorer. I’ll post one here and send the rest by email.

Cheers,

Bob

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Hi Jerry,

What body style?

Thanks,

Bob

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Hi Jim,

One note on solid state (diode) cutout replacements – I had a simple 25 amp diode cutout replacement fail in my ’34, and since the generator then had no load on its output, the voltage went up around 18 volts and blew the top solenoid in the Startix unit. Of course, the same thing could happen if a conventional cutout coil opened up, but I have never seen that happen. To avoid any future problems, I went back to a conventional cutout, and just to be safe, installed a fuse (I believe 2 amp) in the generator to Startix lead. My ’34 is a 3-brush system and has no problems with overcharging.

Bob

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Hi Guys,

The car looks like a 1933 1236 convertible sedan, Pierce body, very similar to the only 1934 1240A convertible sedan, green, belonging to Mr. Gillet, which won last year’s Weis trophy.

Bob

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Hi George,

The flyer with all the info for the meet was included in the normal 5th mailing for the year, mailed on 10/23 thru 10/27. The website will be updated hopefully this week. Here is a condensed version for now:

2016 WINTER MINI-MEET AND BOARD MEETING

FEBRUARY 25 – 29, 2016 (Thursday thru Monday)

PALO ALTO, CALIFORNIA

All PAS members are invited to attend and visit SIX OF NORTHERN CALIFORNIA’S FINEST CAR COLLECTIONS, attractions and social events in Palo Alto, San Francisco, and Stockton, California. (50+ Pierce-Arrows from 1904 to 1938!) Preliminary schedule:

THURSDAY, Feb 25: Early Bird tour for those arriving by 1pm or so. We will tour 2 private collections in Woodside, (4 Pierces, many other cars, memorabilia, unique garages). Welcome party that evening at member John Bertolotti’s collection (100+ cars, 11 Pierces).

FRIDAY, Feb 26: Bus tour to the San Francisco Academy of Art University car collection (200 cars, 6 Pierces including prototype and production Silver Arrows, and the only 1938 Pierce convertible), lunch at a local restaurant, then visit the fabulous new Disney Family Museum. We will go by the old Pierce-Arrow dealership building (“Pierce-Arrow” is chiseled in the granite facade on 4 sides), and the Palace of Fine Arts, the only remaining building from the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition. Dinner in San Francisco.

SATURDAY, Feb 27: Visit the Filoli estate in Woodside, a 36,000 sq. ft. mansion & 16 acres of beautiful gardens, built in 1915 by William Bourn (owned Empire gold mine), and later owned by William Roth (owned Matson Steamship Line). Lunch at Filoli, then drive through Stanford University campus and enjoy the Cantor Art Museum. Then downtown Palo Alto, past the ‘teens Pierce-Arrow dealership, and then enjoy member John Mozart’s sparkling new museum (60 cars, 10 Pierces). Dinner on your own.

SUNDAY, Feb 28: Board Meeting and Foundation Meeting at the hotel. Those not in the meetings can tour and lunch at the upscale Stanford Shopping Center, relax in a picturesque garden, and visit the Museum of American Heritage. Banquet that evening.

MONDAY, Feb 29: Bus (and rental cars) to our final stop, member Pat Craig’s exciting collection in Stockton (24 Pierces, 17 Pierce bicycles, many other cars), lunch at his daughter’s restaurant. From there, folks can continue their vacation to other spots in CA, or return to Palo Alto for an evening on your own.

Reserve your room today at the Crowne Plaza Cabana Palo Alto, 4290 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, CA 94306. 888-422-2264, ask for code PA3. Rates are $129 for Thurs., Fri., Sat., Sun., and $229 for the preceding Tuesday and Wednesday, and the following Monday.

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Watch out –

I tried a 25 amp diode on my ’34, and it burned out, going open-circuit. (probably due to poor heat sink).

This allowed the generator to pump out extremely high voltage (18 volts?) with no load, which in turn burned out the Startix top (sense) coil. I went back to the proper cutout relay, but just to be safe, put a fuse in the lead from generator to Startix so no more expensive coils would be blown.

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Great stuff – thanks, Ben.

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John,

They did not have steel inserts – I think Egge added those later.

Bob

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I used Egge pistons a long time ago in my ’33, and they work fine if you allow about 0.003″ clearance. (We first had 0.0015 – 0.002″ clearance, and they seized).

In my ’34 I recently used Arias pistons with one less ring groove and shorter skirts – less friction. A little better quality than Egge, in my opinion.

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A few thoughts on the oil cooler: If the core develops a pin hole while in use, or the gaskets leak, the first result will be oil in the water, since the oil is under 20 to 50 pounds pressure, and the water is at zero psi. So if you check the water regularly, there will be no danger of wiping out your bearings. Just fix the core when your finger comes out brown. The real danger is if a car is left sitting with a full radiator and a leaky oil cooler – the water is at a slight pressure due to the height of the radiator, and the oil lines have drained, allowing the water to get into the oil lines.

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Gentlemen,

I am going to add my radical thoughts to this discussion: the ONLY way to completely eliminate any vapor lock problem is to add a recirculating fuel line. If you want your car judged, this solution may not be for you, since there will be an additional line from the carburetor tee back to the gas tank. However, you can add a smaller diameter line and hide it in a woven insulating tubing around the lines. My ’33 would vapor lock even with an electric pump, but when I installed a return line (with a pressure regulator at the tank return), the problem was solved forever, since cool gas was always circulating by means of the electric rotary pump.

Cheers,

Bob

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Hi Syd,

I just started my old ’47 Ford after being stored for years, with an Optima installed in 2000, and on a tender.

No reason to look any further.

Bob

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Hi Bill,

So sorry to hear of your misfortune. We haven’t talked for a long time. If it’s any help, I had some hood door spears cast, and can supply them (unplated) at my cost. I will look for other extras.

Do the police report thing, and I hope you get the parts back.

Bob

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Daily Planet????????????

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